Benchrest Rimfire: Free recoil, shoulder pressure, death grip, other?

Biologist

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Curious what benchrest shooters have found works best for your grip, shoulder pressure and recoil management, for 22lr rimfire, rifle supported by front rest and rear bag on the bench. Context is 50m distance, match shooting, attempting consistent sub 1/2 inch groups, and mostly 10's and X's for score.

I continually experiment and continue to get good and bad results. No one method seems to be consistently the best, and sometimes everything falls apart and score suffers.

Shoulder pressure: I use this with alot of success. Some recoil is being absorbed but the rifle does ride the bags in recoil. I believe shoulder pressure also steadies the rifle during trigger pull, ignition, firing pin movement and recoil. But inevitably I get some fliers, and I think its because I changed the pressure slightly and the consistent muscle memory circuits have failed. On the fliers I notice the reticle ended up where the flier hit, so it clearly was my mistake. What do you do with shoulder pressure?

Free recoil: I usually do not have much luck with this method, although when its working it works good. However eventually the groups open up with fliers, and can't seem to return to accuracy, and I can no longer achieve consistency, so I go back to a stronger grip. Anyone use free recoil with consistent results, and if so does it require a very heavy rifle, and how heavy?

Death Grip: I find sometimes this works very well. There are variations depending on rifle, stock, rest or bipod, etc. But basically it is a combo of strong shoulder pressure, strong grip on the trigger hand pulling the rifle hard into the shoulder, and strong pressure leaning into the front rest or bipod. It controls the rifle for any mistakes with trigger pull. It absorbs recoil. Bag riding is extremely limited with most of the recoil being absorbed into the body, and there should be no torque movement seen in the reticle after the shot - that reticle should be almost exactly where you placed it before the shot. Works great when its working, then it inevitably falls apart and I have to loosen up and modify things yet again. I am guessing that the death grip muscle memory fails and the body starts pushing the recoil up, down, left and right causing bad fliers. Anyone use a "death grip", and any pointers to share?

Cheek pressure: I use only very slight cheek pressure, mostly to make sure I am centering my eye in the scope to eliminate parallax errors. I have tried no cheek pressure and face entirely off the stock, but I find that my ear muffs sometimes bump the stock comb accidently, and eye relief is difficult until I get really close to the stock and then there is an inadvertent knocking of the stock, ruining the shot. Sometimes even with the very lightest cheek pressure, I can see heart beat pulse movement through my 45x scope, which no doubt has been responsible for some poor shots. I have not been able to get the timing right for shooting between pulses. What say you for using cheek pressure on the bench?

The bizarre thing is that every method I have tried works for a while, scoring 10's and X's, and then it eventually falls apart.

Anyways, please let us know what works for your rimfire benchrest shooting.
 
Bio, what ammo are you using? When I get my bench shots right, the crosshairs move maybe 1/2” on the target, or less at 100. I regularly see the point of impact way off from the previous ones though and then the next one will look perfect and be very good. I shoot cheap ammo (CCISV) and a factory Tikka barrel though. My best bipod and rear bag bag hold is some shoulder pressure lifting a little with my shoulder and pulling the bag and stock up and into my shoulder with the support hand. I’ll have to update when I’ve got an aftermarket barrel and ammo that doesn’t remind people of a ‘70’s single wide trailer.
 
Bio, what ammo are you using? When I get my bench shots right, the crosshairs move maybe 1/2” on the target, or less at 100. I regularly see the point of impact way off from the previous ones though and then the next one will look perfect and be very good. I shoot cheap ammo (CCISV) and a factory Tikka barrel though. My best bipod and rear bag bag hold is some shoulder pressure lifting a little with my shoulder and pulling the bag and stock up and into my shoulder with the support hand. I’ll have to update when I’ve got an aftermarket barrel and ammo that doesn’t remind people of a ‘70’s single wide trailer.

I mostly shoot SK Biathlon Sport ("SK Blue"), SK Rifle Match ("SK Red), and sparingly shoot Lapua Midas (which I only have 2 bricks of, and can't really afford).

I often get the bullet hole in the previous bullet hole, indicating that my shooting technique is working "perfectly". Sometimes 3 in the same hole or clover leaf, sometimes 4!.....and then it often stops happening and the group opens in random directions. Or in matches when we shoot individual bulls with individual shots (25 bulls with 25 shots for score), its very interesting seeing the position of the hits move around in different locations, all numbers on the clock, without a distinct pattern (e.g. one round hits high at 3 o'clock. Next round hits low at 8 o'clock). Could be the ammo. Could be unseen wind. Could be the fouling in the barrel is changing internal ballistics. Could be my technique failing to repeat what I was doing (likely). Could be accumulated brain damage with my brain sending stupid signals to my muscles (highly likely!).
 
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I don't like free recoil, mainly because I don't have either the rest/bags or stock designed for it. That technique is best left to purpose built one-piece or high end two-piece rests, and benchrest stocks.

I do a firm hold, not quite a death-grip, snug in the shoulder with light cheek pressure. Some tips, build stamina, and with your non-trigger hand pull the forestock with straight down pressure onto the front rest. Size your front bag to snugly fit the forestock. My thought is to control any movement of the rifle from the trigger break through recoil until the bullet leaves the barrel.

I mostly shoot SK Biathlon Sport ("SK Blue"), SK Rifle Match ("SK Red), and sparingly shoot Lapua Midas (which I only have 2 bricks of, and can't really afford).

I often get the bullet hole in the previous bullet hole, indicating that my shooting technique is working "perfectly". Sometimes 3 in the same hole or clover leaf, sometimes 4!.....and then it often stops happening and the group opens in random directions. Or in matches when we shoot individual bulls with individual shots (25 bulls with 25 shots for score), its very interesting seeing the position of the hits move around in different locations, all numbers on the clock, without a distinct pattern (e.g. one round hits high at 3 o'clock. Next round hits low at 8 o'clock). Could be the ammo. Could be unseen wind. Could be the fouling in the barrel is changing internal ballistics. Could be my technique failing to repeat what I was doing (likely). Could be accumulated brain damage with my brain sending stupid signals to my muscles (highly likely!).

If you're thinking a .22LR will put all shots through "one-hole" if you "just do your part", you might be disappointed with this cartridge. I've had some rifles that produced worse groups at 50 yards than what I recently posted in the 100 yard thread. I've taken a CZ that was a 1"+ shooter at 50 yards and turned it into a 0.4"-0.6" grouper by lapping and recrowning the barrel. It now shoots like you describe, a few nice tight shots, then a random flier or two. Many times I've seen the bullet strike off POA in the opposite direction that the reticle moved on recoil, for this reason I don't jump to any conclusions that I somehow moved the shot. Many times I see the bullet strike low and it is impossible for me to move the reticle down to that as an aimpoint, there's no way I could have done anything as a shooter to cause that, I physically cannot point the rifle down to where the bullet impacted with my setup. Why these things happen, nobody knows for sure. Something to do with the barrel, sometimes it's just the ammo. Since there is no real definitive explanation, many shooters just default to what they understand: "Must have been me".

Through experience with an accurate rifle, a competent shooter will learn what a properly executed shot feels like, and also what it feels like when they occasionally screw one up. Then, they are able to discern when results on target do not line up with the shot execution. If you have a good rifle, fliers are probably the ammo. If the rifle is unknown, failure to achieve good results with several varieties of known good ammo indicates an issue with the barrel. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of barrel quality, it doesn't take much of a flaw to spoil the precision, factory made barrels are a real toss-up.
 
Through experience with an accurate rifle, a competent shooter will learn what a properly executed shot feels like, and also what it feels like when they occasionally screw one up. Then, they are able to discern when results on target do not line up with the shot execution. If you have a good rifle, fliers are probably the ammo. If the rifle is unknown, failure to achieve good results with several varieties of known good ammo indicates an issue with the barrel. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of barrel quality, it doesn't take much of a flaw to spoil the precision, factory made barrels are a real toss-up.

This is a very good point that's well worth keeping in mind.

Regarding how to "hold" the rifle -- whether to grip firmly, slight hold, free recoil or somewhere in between these -- much will depend on the individual rifle and the front/rear rest set up.

Lightweight sporter-style stocks with forearms that are usually relatively narrow and rounded often require a firm hold. A front rest bag that fits the forestock shape and size is very helpful.

Free recoil shooting, which is when the shooter doesn't touch the rifle except for activating the trigger. This is best achieved with a BR-specific stock. A BR-specific stock will have no cast, that is, the butt stock will be in-line with the barrel, and the bottom of the butt stock will parallel with the barrel. This will allow the rifle to recoil and return to battery with no movement off POA (theoretically). This requires a good rest and free recoil shooters often prefer one-piece rests. Below is an example of such a stock. Note that there's no butt pad, only a metal piece on the end of the butt. It's not meant to be held to the shoulder.



I shoot a fairly heavy rifle, over 12 pounds with the scope. It has an Anschutz factory BR-style stock. (Anschutz has two BR-style stocks, one is like the first shown first below (my rifle), which is designed to be held (the butt stock has some cast and it has an adjustable butt pad), and the other is a "free recoil style" stock, shown second. I've used both but early on grew to prefer the former, which may have been premature.





Up to part way through this season I had been using a light hold, with slight shoulder pressure using the rifle shown top above. This season I've been experimenting with more of a free recoil style of shooting, holding the rifle only lightly by the pistol grip when I use the trigger. It's been no less consistent than the light hold I've used, probably a little better. What's different about using a free recoil type of shooting with the rifle that has a butt stock with cast and a sloping bottom is that it's necessary to make sure that everything gets "realigned" properly, especially on the front rest, which may require some adjustment. I wouldn't try this with a lightweight rifle or with a rest that didn't have good ability to adjust for windage and height.
 
Ive been shooting free recoil or with my thumb just touching the back of the trigger guard. Im going to try to get the thumb away as i believe its introducing some vertical from putting too much pressure on my thumb from time to time. I make sure my shoulder and cheek is not touching. Im even running offset scopre rings to get my face further away from the stock. Im using a protektor rear bag and Cowan front rest with a edgewood 3" front bag. The rifle is a 40x with a 3" plate mounted on the front.
 
A good detail on BR centric rests and stocks by grauhanen. I haven't yet jumped off the deep end into such gear, my rest/bags are rather modest.

 
VERY LIGHT SHOULDER PRESSURE ''light'

View attachment 512887View attachment 512888

THESE TARGETS SHOT BY THREE DIFFERENT SHOOTERS.ONE 54 AND TWO REMINGTONS, TARGETS 100 YARD CENTERTTFIRE WITH A .
1/2 inch 10 RING
ALL SHOT AT 50 YARD
THE 2 TARGETS ARE USED FOR EACH SHOOTER .RANGE OFFICER SET TIMER FOR 7 MINUTES, SHOOTERS FIRE 5 SHOTS ONE EACH TARGET BOTTOM RIGHT IS A SIGHTSEER
TOTAL OF 5 MAX SCORE 250 X S

ALL WINNING SHOOTERS DO FOLLOWING
LIGHT HOLD,VERY LIGHT
BABY POWDER.STOCK AND REAR BAG AS WELL FONT BAG
LOOK WIND FLAGPOLES AND RIBBONS
ALL SHOOTERS USING MIDAS AMMO LEE SUPER FINE.WIN THE MOST
RIM THICKNESS ALL CHECKED.
TWO ARE USING G3 OGIVE TOOL BEST THING FOR AMMO
JUST MY 2 CENTS OF ADVISE
 
Ive been shooting free recoil or with my thumb just touching the back of the trigger guard. Im going to try to get the thumb away as i believe its introducing some vertical from putting too much pressure on my thumb from time to time. I make sure my shoulder and cheek is not touching. Im even running offset scopre rings to get my face further away from the stock. Im using a protektor rear bag and Cowan front rest with a edgewood 3" front bag. The rifle is a 40x with a 3" plate mounted on the front.

consistency is the key and most shooters are unable to do this with the thumb hold
 
Thanks for all the good advice! I agree with everything said above.

Update from my OP after alot of practice:
With my Anschutz 1907 target rifle, set up in benchrest mode, I have been experimenting with the 3 benchrest grip types and variations: free recoil, shoulder/cheek pressure, and death grip.

After modifying my front rest (see details below) and alot of trail and error, I found that me and this rifle (on the bench) shoot most consistently at 50m with the free recoil method. No shoulder at all. Stock comb only touching the whiskers for reference to center the reticle. My trigger hand is around the stock grip ever so lightly so when the trigger is pulled I have the calibrated touch hand placement for a straight back pull. I tried the trigger guard pull and open finger pull methods but they are not consistent for me.

The rifle and bench setup with the Caldwell Rock BR shooting rest.

Anschutz_1907_BR_Wedge.jpg

I fitted the 1907 with the Anschutz Benchrest Wedge.

1907_BR_Wedge.jpg

It is only 2.16 in wide and the front rest Protektor bag is the standard 3 inch model (normal regulation max width for BR rules) that I use for centerfire. I needed to secure the front of the rifle from tilting left/right and moving sideways in the bag, so I made a quick-release spacer block that pops on and off in a second depending what rifle I am shooting.

Rest_Spacer_Block.jpg

This spacer block made all the difference for the 1907 forearm and wedge width, and I was able to get perfect BR sliding tracking back and forth with recoil and reset. Without this front rest mod, I do not think the free recoil method would work well for me using the standard Anschutz wedge. I would need to use a 3 inch wide wedge (which I don't think they make?)

The spacer block is made from store-bought 1x2 hard maple (3/4" x 1 1/2"). It fits perfectly in there with the rest's side bag clamps for adjusting the fit so its really snug, but rifle can lift straight up freely out of the bag as per BR rules.

Rest_Spacer_Block_view_2.jpg

I chiseled a V notch for the cinch cord to sit flush, and retained it with pieces of paracord sheath screwed down (burned screw holes through the paracord).

Rest_Spacer_Block_Can_Jam_Knot.jpg

The block is held on with the orange paracord tied with a sliding "Canadian Jam Knot": one tag end cinches it tight, one tag end releases it. Once fitted, no knot tying is needed for quick release or quick attachment in 2 seconds.

The Protektor bag is fastened to the rest with cord and cordlocks, as the grommets do not line up the the Caldwell bag clamp screws. And I can change the bag quickly without tools for a narrow round shape sporter rifle bag also with its own cord and cordlocks.

The Caldwell rest's front stop is next to useless because it is not adjustable. I fitted a 2x2 bock of softwood on it with a 1/4 inch threaded brass insert for that eye bolt, and now have a much better front stop that works for rimfire and centerfire. It slides fore and aft, and can rotate out of the way if needed. Now I can get that critical slide forward return to the same place every shot, where I want.

This Anschutz is a target rifle and stock, not a BR stock (although the buttstock bottom is parallel with the bore and tracks perfectly). But with these rifle and front rest mods this rifle is shooting good with free recoil style, and I think I will be competitive at my local range against the guys with the BR gear. And I can take that wedge off and use the rifle for classic positional shooting.

I agree with all the points Grauhanen made about rifle weight, stock shape, tracking and return in the bags to the same point of aim (close as possible). This free recoil method is working for me because this rifle is relatively heavy, and its rear buttstock and front forearm are suited for tracking on bags. Free recoil does not work for me when shooting my much lighter CZ 452 sporter with its narrow and round front forearm, and angled buttstock. For the sporters I switch out the front bag to the narrow round sporter bag and apply variations of shoulder/cheek pressure and death grip. I still have not worked out the optimum BR shooting style for my sporters, both rimfire and centerfire.


(PS. I just shot the Eley "Team" ammo for the first time ever, running 3 boxes through the rifle to fully test it starting from a clean bore. After many fouling rounds the groups settled in and this rifle really likes it! Fairly expensive so it will only be used for matches).
 

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Nice work, indeed, Biologist.

My recent results at 100 and 50 would seem to confirm that the free recoil style is effective. It's an approach that can work well with a heavier rifle. I agree that it doesn't seem to work well with light sporter models.

The Anschutz wedge certainly helps with making the bottom of the forestock more closely to parallel to the bore. For readers in general, an alternative would be to make a three inch wide wedge that can be fastened to the rail on the bottom of the forestock. Below is one such wedge on a Krico 330S I used to have.



One of the troubles with a wedge, however, is that, while it makes for a flat rather than rounded forestock bottom, which in turn is good on a flat-bottomed BR-style front bag, it invariably raises the barrel higher above the front rest bag than is ideal. This can contribute to the rifle being top heavy on the rest, which adds a potential element of instability.

The best configuration is, of course, to have the barrel as low as possible. This can be achieved with an Anschutz BR 50 stock. But it's not inexpensive at about $1000, unless you can find one that has been previously owned.

As an additional thought, there is a different top available that works with the Caldwell BR Rock front rest that you are using. I have one of those rests and I improved it with the addition of a Greenlaw "adjustable bag windage top." This is not only windage adjustable but also forestock width adjustable and it replaces the top currently on the Caldwell Rock BR rest.

Here is mine with the width adjusted for a three inch wide BR rest. The front bag can be made as narrow as desired for sporter and other stocks.


 
Thank Grauhanen for that tip on the Greenlaw "adjustable bag windage top." I checked out the website - Now that is a great looking product. Looks like it should be a significant improvement to the clunky top on my Caldwell rest, and work for most/all of my rifles, centerfire and rimfire without having to switch bags and mess with spacer blocks. I need that! Saving my money..... (I hope they ship to Canada?)
 
(I hope they ship to Canada?)

You will be very happy with a Greenlaw top for your rest.

He is a very pleasant fellow and very accommodating and he does ship to Canada. His benchrest tops are very good as well - simple and very functional. My Caldwell rest had a crack in the leg casting so I upgraded to a Sinclair at the same time - the Greenlaw top slipped into each with no issues! I ordered a Protektor bag with slick material for the front and I was good to go! As you likely already know the Protektor gang are top notch too (and ship to Canada).

I have had my best rimfire benchrest results with free recoil also.


Happy shooting!
 
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