benelli mr1 rail options

newshot

newshot

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I removed the rear site and wanted to move the rail back but of course the holes do not line up. So here are the options I am thinking:

Option A: ATRS makes a rail....the rail is 175.00...thats a bit crazy so this is no longer an option.

Option B: Do some sort of piggy backing thing on the existing rail with another rail.

Option C: Drill holes in a magpul polymer moe rail and see if that works.

Are there any other options out there?

A bottom rail would be nice too but the only thing I can find is the tripple rail and no one stocks them. Right now my intention is to do option C and see how that works out. I'll update if it is any good.
 
The polymer rail won't hold a zero for a magnified riflescope very well. For a red-dot it's okay but then the factory rail is more than sufficient.

I would look into a rail riser like the ARMS extended AR15 risers, or even look at something like a Burris PEPR with the forward offset. You can use it reverse to get rearward offset...

Wolverine has the GG&G one for 99 bucks: http://www.wolverinesupplies.com/details/740/GGandG-Scout-Rail.aspx

Or as a last option, I got a Mesa Tactical 9" picatinny rail for a remington 870 (for a full length rail for the bottom of my Tikka T3 Tactical) which should have a pretty close profile to the MR1. Should be within the realm of using epoxy as a bedding material. Use an oil on the MR1 receiver to prevent the epoxy from sticking to it, then screw it on and wait for the epoxy to cure.

You should be able to drill the holes in the top with a drill press and countersink them. Was 50 bucks plus shipping, Brownells part# 100-005-802WB

Should be able to cut it down if you want and use a bit of paint to touch up the cuts.

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newshot said:
Option A: ATRS makes a rail....the rail is 175.00...thats a bit crazy so this is no longer an option.
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This is the option I went with. I'm really happy with it and think its worth the money I spent.

A simple option is to reverse the rail. You'll get an extra 1/2" towards the back of the rifle that might be enough to make a difference.
 
Good tips guys. I know the atrs rail is the best quality solution and I would even pay like 100 for it, but 175...that's good ammo or glass money. I have a few optic options to try so ill wait for them to get here and then see how much more rail I need. My micro and magnifier worked well even with the back site installed, so I know I have options. I am really enjoying this rifle! It is really fun to shoot :)
 
Well...KISS wins again...flipping the rail around has probably brought it close enough for most optics and it will be nice and tight. Thanks!
 
I got one from ATRS. Yes it is expensive, but it is flawless. You already spent this much on a rifle. Black rifles aren't cheap, so stop being cheap.
 
furfaro said:
I got one from ATRS. Yes it is expensive, but it is flawless. You already spent this much on a rifle. Black rifles aren't cheap, so stop being cheap.
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I have "flawless" rails for many guns. Let me know what is in your collection and your mailing address and I will let you know how many 175.00 emt to send me. I appreciate your sentiment if not your tone, but it is not a product I require.
 
"I have "flawless" rails for many guns. Let me know what is in your collection and your mailing address and I will let you know how many 175.00 emt to send me. I appreciate your sentiment if not your tone, but it is not a product I require."

Well,furfaro, I guess you've been told haven't you? "newshot" asked for help but doesn't really want the correct answer. Apparently "hay wiring" the rifle together is a better option. Missing rail mounting screws or plastic rails will most definitely add to the accuracy of the rifle. Adding a rail riser only compounds the issue with cheek weld, but hey, spending $175.00 to properly remedy one of the few problems this $1700.00 rifle has is just crazy. Why not just duct tape the scope on and only spend $2.00.

Sorry "newshot", but if you really want to get the performance this rifle can provide, spend the $175.00. Messing around will cost you more in the end and you won't be happy.
 
Hit 'r Miss said:
"I have "flawless" rails for many guns. Let me know what is in your collection and your mailing address and I will let you know how many 175.00 emt to send me. I appreciate your sentiment if not your tone, but it is not a product I require."

Well,furfaro, I guess you've been told haven't you? "newshot" asked for help but doesn't really want the correct answer. Apparently "hay wiring" the rifle together is a better option. Missing rail mounting screws or plastic rails will most definitely add to the accuracy of the rifle. Adding a rail riser only compounds the issue with cheek weld, but hey, spending $175.00 to properly remedy one of the few problems this $1700.00 rifle has is just crazy. Why not just duct tape the scope on and only spend $2.00.

Sorry "newshot", but if you really want to get the performance this rifle can provide, spend the $175.00. Messing around will cost you more in the end and you won't be happy.
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Actually I did use the help I asked for. Simply flipping the rail the other way (as suggested) solved my problem. This does not involve skipping any rail mounting screws btw. Oh, and it is $2.00 cheaper than your "duct tape" option. Not sure if that is "hay wiring" the rifle, and it is definitely not adding any height to the optic so it won't effect cheek weld. Anyhow, I got the advice that helped me and I see where this thread is going now so I am going to make a graceful exit at this point. Thanks for the help gents!
 
I flipped my rail around and set it to the back I am able to use 3 of the holes have had not problems yet. It would be nice if they made a full rail from the factory. The rear site could sit on it.

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granite said:
What did you have to do to take the site screws out? I have heard they are loc-tited in and have to be heated quite a bit to get them out.
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Most people do not have a problem removing the sight screws. Occassionally, they can be in so tight that they can not be removed easily. I had this problem and broke SIX T15 wrenches/bits trying to get it out. My suggestion would be to try to remove the sight on your own but if it's proving to be difficult bring it to a gunsmith to have it removed.
 
You could try a soldering iron on the screw heads, but be very careful as you can damage the heat treatment in the Aluminum receiver (if it's aluminum, been a while since I've fondled one) if it's heated up too much. The soldering iron should heat up the screws enough to break the thread lockers seal without hurting the gun.
 
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