Best glue
- Thread starter SuperCub
- Start date
gunrunner100
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- NW Ontario
If you have access to Acra-Glas, there is a tinting kit with it. This stuff works great.
- Location
- marmora ontario
I use GORILLA glue and sand /scrape off excess when dry,its very strong!!!!! JITC
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Make sure its clear, as it will leave a hairline mark that you don't want. Use very little on both surfaces, less near the areas from which it can be seen.
There are cyanoacrilates - superglues - specifically designed for gluing wood. Check Lee Valley's or Brownells' offerings. IF a wood repair is done very carefully, it can be close to undetectable. Badly done it can stand out like a sore thumb.
SuperCub said:
Any glue will work well but the part needs to be clamped exactly in place (heavy rubber bands work well sometimes) with the excess glue forced out of the joint or the repair will be quite noticable. Then bolt handle clearance should be done, and a light sanding with 600 grit wet paper and a bit of stock finish should hide it real well.
Gorilla glue expands when it cures so it needs to be well clamped to keep things tight.
It works really well when you've got a sloppy joint as it will expand and bridge gaps.
Regular wood glue is plenty strong and won't push apart as it cures.
It works really well when you've got a sloppy joint as it will expand and bridge gaps.
Regular wood glue is plenty strong and won't push apart as it cures.
I used polyurethane (Gorilla type) glue when I laminated up the birch plywood to make the target rifle stock. Clamping is really important if a wide glue line is to be avoided.
Another consideration - worth an experiment - is if the glue used will take a stain if necessary.
Another consideration - worth an experiment - is if the glue used will take a stain if necessary.
- Location
- Mission, B.C.
I used the "Hot Stuff" cyanoacrylate from CA Glues (bought at Lee Valley Tools) to repair a hairline crack in the wrist of my Marlin 1895. The crack was too small for a thicker glue; Hot Stuff is the consistency of water. (The other CA glues, like Super T, are thicker if more gap-filling is necessary.)
I put a little lacquer thinner in the crack first to deal with any oils, wicking it out with a bit of cloth. The stuff sets up FAST, though, so don't muck about!
I believe epoxies, such as AcraGlass, can be thinned (with acetone??- I'm not sure) but I you have to be careful not to "break the back" of the glue by thinning too much.
Stuart
I put a little lacquer thinner in the crack first to deal with any oils, wicking it out with a bit of cloth. The stuff sets up FAST, though, so don't muck about!
I believe epoxies, such as AcraGlass, can be thinned (with acetone??- I'm not sure) but I you have to be careful not to "break the back" of the glue by thinning too much.
Stuart
Clamping:
Black electrical tape just keeps pulling, great for odd surfaces. Depending on what you're doing a layer of plastic food wrap first keeps the tape glue off or put the tape on upside down since you over lap lots anyways, but it will slide if at an angle. Car wax on the wrap keeps glue from sticking to it.
Mike
Black electrical tape just keeps pulling, great for odd surfaces. Depending on what you're doing a layer of plastic food wrap first keeps the tape glue off or put the tape on upside down since you over lap lots anyways, but it will slide if at an angle. Car wax on the wrap keeps glue from sticking to it.
Mike
