Best glue ?

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crazydave

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I have a tikka T3 hunter that i bought that has a factory screwup on the stock.

The recoil pad holes were put in #### eyed at the factory, when i try to put the limbsaver pad i bought on the rifle it sucks the pad off to the side by a 1/4'', yet the hole in the stock is to close to center to put a different screw hole in.

Wondering what the best glue to attach the pad straight would be?
 
I would drill the hole(s) out to 1/4" and glue a piece of dowel in using G2 glue. It is a two part epoxy and takes about 24 hours for full strength. Pricey however and hopefully you have a number of projects where you can use it. It does have a long shelf life if kept cool. I am finishing off the last of some that I bought 2 or probably 3 years ago

cheers mooncoon
 
If your using a pre-fit pad I'd do as others have suggested and fill the holes with epoxy (JB Weld) and re-drill. If you want to glue the pad on almost any epoxy will do (Wildcat composites suggest a 5 min epoxy). I wouldn't use Gorilla glue as it expands 2x and makes a huge mess.
 
Gorilla glue also requires some moisture to get it to kick off. It doesn't "dry" like a normal glue does.

The best bet is to fill the hole with epoxy or some other glue which doesn't shrink much. Because it's already threaded by the old screw you don't need anything all that fancy. But to make it more resilient if you use the basic 5 minute stuff you might want to mix it with some sawdust to give it a little more flexibility over the long term. Once it cures hard in 20 minutes to a half hour instead of being in the soft short term cure period you can drill and thread in the screw.
 
if you are filling the hole with epoxy only, once set up, it is going to make a hard plug and if the new hole is slightly to one side of the old hole, that hard plug is going to deflect the new hole and screw. Far better for the hole to be filled with end grain wood (such as 1/4" dowel) glued in place and have more or less the consistency and resistance of the surrounding wood

cheers mooncoon
 
Drill out the screw holes so they are in their proper position. Full insert the screws through the pad and coat the screws and pad with paste wax. Fill the holes about 2/3 full with epoxy. Place the pad on the rifle with the screws in the epoxy and tape the pad so it won't move.

After the epoxy has fully hardened, remove the pad and slightly deepen the holes with a 1/8" bit. Re-install the pad.
 
mooncoon said:
if you are filling the hole with epoxy only, once set up, it is going to make a hard plug and if the new hole is slightly to one side of the old hole, that hard plug is going to deflect the new hole and screw. Far better for the hole to be filled with end grain wood (such as 1/4" dowel) glued in place and have more or less the consistency and resistance of the surrounding wood

cheers mooncoon
Click to expand...

Exactly this. Any wood glue (Lepage,Elmers) will do, they're a little weak on shear strength, but as long as you're not buttstroking the deer,...and if you think you might, a light coat of PL Premium on the dowel will set like, well, glue. PL or wood glue will soak into the cellulose fibers of the wood cells and slightly seperate and swell them, which interleaves the two materials with each other; most epoxy will set as a seperate entity and crack around your screw...unless you drill the perfect sized pilot hole (shank of screw), and coat your screw in a thin layer of epoxy?
Wow, that got windy, my $0.02 use cheap wood glue and dowel.
 
The tikkas have a plastic plate already glued over the wood end with holes in it. So the fit would be plastic to plastic, with the holes in the wood messed up on the stock in behind.

I really like the rifle but this stock is being a bit difficult to get past.
Guess all places have quality control issues i guess
 
crazydave said:
The tikkas have a plastic plate already glued over the wood end with holes in it......
Click to expand...

It would have helped a lot if you had mentioned that it is this style in the first place. MOST of the hints so far have been geared towards fixing a fully synthetic stock.

For a wood stock with a plastic end plate by far the best option is to drill out the existing hole with an oversize drill. Fill the new hole with a hardwood dowel glued into place. When dry line up the pad and push a smooth pointy marker through the pad and the hole in the place to mark the dowel. Drill the new screw hole in the dowel and simply remount the pad.

The new screw will be securing into end grain just like the original. So don't go crazy with the torque once the screw seats.
 
Dont use Gorilla glue!!! It foams as it cures like expandng foam insulation. It works great but the foam is a PIA to clean up after it dries. Get a dowel, drill the hole out to fit, a little wood glue and jam the dowel in, cut and sand flush, re-drill a new hole that lines up
 
BCRider said:
For a wood stock with a plastic end plate by far the best option is to drill out the existing hole with an oversize drill. Fill the new hole with a hardwood dowel glued into place. When dry line up the pad and push a smooth pointy marker through the pad and the hole in the place to mark the dowel. Drill the new screw hole in the dowel and simply remount the pad.

The new screw will be securing into end grain just like the original. So don't go crazy with the torque once the screw seats.
Click to expand...

Yep, the way to go for a wood stock. Anything you fill the existing hole with will be a different density, and will cause problems when you re-drill the holes, unless you clamp the stock and use a drill press.

If you want a waterproof glue, use Titebond III. It is in the "white" glue family (actually a brown-grey), but waterproof when dry. I have a gallon of it and use for many outdoor projects.

The white glues are FAR stronger than you imagine, as long as the wood to wood gap is tight, you don't need epoxies.

moosedude said:
Dont use Gorilla glue!!! It foams as it cures like expandng foam insulation. It works great but the foam is a PIA to clean up after it dries.
Click to expand...

As above, don't use the urethane (Gorilla) glues. Not good for tight wood to wood joints. I first started using these glues almost 20 years ago (way before being marketed by Gorilla), and they have their place, but fine woodworking isn't one of them.

Also, they are NOT as strong as the wood glues!! These glues stick better, but joints are not as strong. Counter intuitive, but born out through testing.
 
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