best reloading book/manual?

Mr. Friendly

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is there an end all be all book/manual about reloading that every reloader should have in their posession? I just bought the 50th Anniversary Lee's Reloading Kit...it has a book with all the different recipies one may need (at least for Hodgedon's powders), but I don't know how to reload (yet). now that have something to practice with...I'd like something instructional to aid me. :D
 
is there an end all be all book/manual about reloading that every reloader should have in their posession? I just bought the 50th Anniversary Lee's Reloading Kit...it has a book with all the different recipies one may need (at least for Hodgedon's powders), but I don't know how to reload (yet). now that have something to practice with...I'd like something instructional to aid me. :D

No, but get yourself the new Lyman Reloading Manual.
 
The Lyman manual has more loads with more powders and bullet weights than any bullet or powder maker's book. Not that there's anything bad about the Hodgdon book. The Lyman manual is just more versatile. Not exactly inexpensive though.
Read your manual. There'll be a how-to chapter. You could buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading. There's a bunch of how-to .pdf files on Lee's site too.
Add the W's and click on 'Intructions'. .leeprecision.com/
 
ABC good, descent diagrams. More info in Lee's second edition (have to tolerate the Lee is so good mantra written into the book).

Found websites tend to have a better description of the start to finish process with tips thrown in but would verify anything from the web before using it (with possible exception of the manufacturers' sites).

The equipment itself - loader, dies, have good instructions in them too.
 
Lyman has one of the best 'how to' sections, lots of images and explained very clearly. It's the one I'd hand to a new reloader, no question.

Lyman load data is a bit hit n' miss. Some of it's been kicking around since the 30's without update--few new powders, new bullets, etc. But they _do_ give accuracy information, which is helpful for clues about how to chase down a good load. They also include good cast bullet data for every cartridge. Velocities are 'optimistic' in many cases, but not nearly as bad as Hornady.

Lee data is compiled from all the 'free' sources, primarily powder manufacturers. With a little Google work you can get it all for free. Still, it's useful to have it all on hand for quick cross-referencing. I _always_ check my loads against Lee 2nd Ed just to see where they sit. As a general rule, the powder guys give hotter loads; it's in their best interest to sell you the powder that gives the best results.

Nosler's load data has great accuracy info; it tells you which charge was most accurate for each powder type, and which of these was overall the most accurate. It's only 'true' in their barrel and firearm, but it's a big help. The latest Nosler is quite good overall, and useful especially if you load a lot of their bullets.

The Hornady book is wildly overrated. Their load data is completely out to lunch compared to everybody else, at least in the last few editions. The one upside is that they do list many obscure cartridges that you've likely never heard of and will never encounter. Yay. At least they don't make you pay for a second book of ballistics tables anymore.

No experience with Barnes, or Speer, or Sierra, but I'll pick them up eventually--the more the better.

I love old sources too, from P.O. Ackley to O'Connor to old copies of Handloader, to early editions of Lyman. Some of this old stuff was juuuust on the safe side of a Kb, but it's always entertaining.
 
being I haven't had time to delve into the book included with my reloading kit...do you change the load with the different 'types' of bullets? if I was using a 150g Nosler Partition would I probably use a different load out then a 150g Barnes TSX? if the caliber matters for this theoretical, it's a .308.
 
do you change the load with the different 'types' of bullets?8.

Maybe, different bullets may have different seating depth if you orient on/just off the lands or crimp in relation to the cannulure, that will affect pressure thus may adjust powder to also adjust pressure... All depends on what you want to do.


Bishopus, thanks for the tip on nosler / accuracy info.
 
being I haven't had time to delve into the book included with my reloading kit...do you change the load with the different 'types' of bullets? if I was using a 150g Nosler Partition would I probably use a different load out then a 150g Barnes TSX? if the caliber matters for this theoretical, it's a .308.

For the most part bullets are interchangeable, so long as the weight is the same, and whether or not the bullet is jacketted or lead stays the same. Be careful with Barnes, though. As their bullets are lead free, their info will be different. If you're going to be doing a fair bit with Barnes, it'd be adviseable to track down one of their manuals, they have a brand new one out, so that'd be the one to get all their latest info. Other wise though, with some minor exceptions, a 165Gr jacketted bullet from anyone can typically be loaded to whatever manual you happen to have. Having more than one though is nice, as it lets you double check. There have been a number of cases where one companies starting load is higher than anothers Max load. Doesn't mean the higher one isn't safe, just that you should use caution when working your way up to it. Have fun, play safe, it's all generally easier than you first thinks it's going to be.
 
There is no one manual that is far superior to all other manuals.As for bullet types,it can be a huge factor,as pressure will vary from say a nosler partition,to a barnes tsx,to a swift scirocco,to a trophy bonded bear claw.As well,the overall length to have the same distance to the lands will vary with different bullets.Most importantly,don't assume that all loads printed in a manual will be safe in your rifle,and work up the load every time you change a component.
 
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Richard Lee's reloading manual is a really good book, IMO mandatory reading and as mentioned, their website has lots of info including videos showing most aspects of the reloading proces, using their stuff of course. The more manuals you have and read, the better you start to see and understand the finer details. For both info and outright entertaining reading the A-Square manual is the best I've ever read. (It's called "Any Shot You Want.") For probably the best explanation in layman's terms of headspace and the importance of it, Hornady's newest is really good. For pure data, the manufacturers of the specific powders are good and bullet makers info is really specific to their products, though both tend to be mild on the "max" side for liability reasons. Norma's data using Vihtavuori powders tends to be more "lively" on the max end of the scale and remember that different mauals tend to lean heavily toward a select few powders, leaving out other and sometimes better choices. Lee, on the other hand, doesn't seem to suffer from that deliberate sort of oversight and shows loads from all over the place. Another oddball but great book is the Swift manual - and their bullets are damned fine too, although pricey. I like the new Nosler book as well cause like a few others it shows what they found to be the most accurate powders and weights for all the bullets they used in their test guns plus they include most of the new calibers. Supect within a year or two a few of them will be gone, read SAUM, RUM and .450 Marlin.
 
I got the Speer manual first, because it was the only one at the Ottawa's LeBaron store when I needed a reloading book.

Then, while ordering stuff from Higginson's in Hawkesbury, I got the Lee book, why not.

I learned important things in both book. Lee's book has a fun tone to it though, really like the writting style.

Then Sly_old_fox lent me two other books (Lyman and Hornady) (Thanks S_O_F!). Learned more yet.

So: you can't have too much reading about reloading!

Lou
 
being I haven't had time to delve into the book included with my reloading kit...do you change the load with the different 'types' of bullets? if I was using a 150g Nosler Partition would I probably use a different load out then a 150g Barnes TSX? if the caliber matters for this theoretical, it's a .308.

Without trying to be disparaging, if you haven't had time to read the manual, then you haven't had time to attempt to handload ammunition, nor should you attempt to do so without taking the time to learn to do it correctly.

To answer your specific question though, the original X bullets created higher pressure due to their longer bearing surface within any given bullet weight. Due to the bands on the shank of the TSX, this bullet can be loaded with loads that are safe with other 150 gr bullets.

Traditional copper cup - lead core bullets can use the same load data safely amongst various brands; however given the broad range of construction found in many different premium bullets, particularly mono-metal bullets, and solid shank bonded bullets, it is best to defer to those manufacturers for specific load data.
 
Read the manual cover to cover before attempting any loads. Best to have at least 2 books on hand, more is better. You can also get data from sites like Hodgdon, Barnes, and Nosler.
 
Without trying to be disparaging, if you haven't had time to read the manual, then you haven't had time to attempt to handload ammunition, nor should you attempt to do so without taking the time to learn to do it correctly.
which is exactly why I asked about manuals. what came in the kit is tiny, so it's going to be far from the more all inclusive product I'm wishing to find about about. I've had enough suggestions now tho to know what to look for and/or what to get. :)
 
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