Big Game Precision Rifle

hehe I was looking at the 300 weatherby magnum last night. from all your comments I think it shows that you cant put a hunting rifle and extreme long range target rifle together unless scarifies will be made. I got all pumped about this idea after seeing this video.

I have shot maybe 10 deer since I started hunting they all have been inside 200 yards. The guns that i used was a browning gold hunter with 28" barrel 12ga open sights like a bird gun, then an 870 deer combo, so far I have shot more deer with those two guns then my new scoped gun. I like this idea of having a challenge its probably not going to happen over night but over a few years I could probably accomplish 500 yard shot maybe some day be this good 1016 yards.

Honestly I would be so happy if I could just sit on a 1000 yard range and shoot all day everyday an M24 .308 and shoot targets at all different ranges.
Thats the kind of muzzle break I am talking about
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ssh8Vsbvn2A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np3NthiI-VE
 
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There are so many technical differences between what you should have for a a Canadian (Sub-zero temps and stainless barrels with magnums are often dangerous) hunting rifle and a target rifle that I think it is a waste of time to think in terms of an all-in-one. This topic comes up every other week.

If you want to develop the skills to become a competent long-distance shooter, get the right tools for the job and practise. THEN decide what you think you need to hit a critter and make an accurate, clean, humane kill at 1k. That includes highly accurate range estimation skill or equipment. I shoot lots of long distance (out to a mile) and I have absolutely no desire to try hunting at those distances... that's just me.

It takes more than a fancy paintbrush to paint a masterpiece.
 
The rifle I put together to do this very thing is a Savage 110 in 7RM with a Micaluk muzzle brake. I have swapped out the trigger for a SSS unit but the new Accutrigger will do all you want.

With 162gr SST/Amax, it is sub MOA at short range and MOA at long. I have had no issue hitting milk jug sized rocks at 900+yds.

With the muzzle brake, I can spot my own shots. Bullets are wonderfully effective on game and recoil is much lower then a braked 30.

Use the Amax for target work, the SST for hunting. They fly pretty much the same trajectory in my rifle so you double your practise time.

You will only be able to take a couple of shots then let the barrel cool during the warmer months but the entire rig including Elite 4200 6x24 mildot scope weights around 8/9lbs.

Frontier Arms, one of our sponsors, has a heavy barreled model on sale in 7RM for dirt cheap. Spin on a brake, recoil pad and have at it. Total weight with scope should be around 10lbs so packing will not be to much of a chore.

Or you can pick up the package rifle, ditch the scope, and build what I have for a few dollars less.

Practise with your 223 will help with costs considerably. There is little reason why you can't meet you goals if you are willing to put in the time and practise.

Have a read of the articles in my sig. That should give you a good start.

Jerry
 
cool I am familiar with the AMAX in my 223 I have long since switched to 55gr FMJ because I can buy 250 for what 100 amax costs and they are just about as accurate, boatailed and punch paper just fine

I also use and elite 4200 8x32x40 don't like it should have got it with a target dot... since then I have only bought leupolds. Mil dot would be handy

Other thing you run into in Southern Ontario is the .275 rule for hunting

Thats why I got the 223 lots of military surplus brass bullets and its easy to shoot because of no recoil.

The only breaked gun I have is my ar-15 10.5" its loud and I suspect the people at my indoor range don't like it because of the pressure change in the booth beside them. When you fire that green laser down the range everyone stops to see what your shooting...it was hilarious. Only thing worse was my friends STI 38 super with 7 port compensator it would blow my hair around in the booth beside him.
 
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You can buy and build some very accurate hunting rifles but as mentioned in between your 2 posts above by some very experienced shooters, Its very difficult to use a hunting rifle for long range shooting.
I have always seperated my tactical or paper rifles from my hunting rifles.

However not that i would enjoy carrying it Tikka makes a nice lite varmint rifle with a HB on it! in 7mm or 300wm would b ethe cats ass for what you want to do with it. Get good optics for it and and start playing with it at different distances.
I have one in a 7mm mag, and the damd thing shoots ! and with the right shooter its very easy to harvest game out at 600yards plus....
But i would not buy or build a lite gun for punching paper.
 
Thats why I posted I am new to the game and I assume there are some real pro's on this site, I have 10 years of leisure plinking, I am sure you guys have 10 years of competition shooting.

The closest thing I own to anything precision is a basically stock 700VLS, when you have so many different toys its hard to focus on just one discipline. I also like cool toys like AR's TRG42's, Accuracy Internationals AWP, Blaser Tactical. Its cool just to own those kinda things but even cooler if you can shoot them well. Maybe some day dream safe... $50000 lol

few pics of some of my toys
P1290075.jpg

P1290078-1.jpg

PB230011-1.jpg

gun1.jpg
 
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mysticplayer said:
The rifle I put together to do this very thing is a Savage 110 in 7RM with a Micaluk muzzle brake. I have swapped out the trigger for a SSS unit but the new Accutrigger will do all you want.

With 162gr SST/Amax, it is sub MOA at short range and MOA at long. I have had no issue hitting milk jug sized rocks at 900+yds.

With the muzzle brake, I can spot my own shots. Bullets are wonderfully effective on game and recoil is much lower then a braked 30.

Use the Amax for target work, the SST for hunting. They fly pretty much the same trajectory in my rifle so you double your practise time.

You will only be able to take a couple of shots then let the barrel cool during the warmer months but the entire rig including Elite 4200 6x24 mildot scope weights around 8/9lbs.

Frontier Arms, one of our sponsors, has a heavy barreled model on sale in 7RM for dirt cheap. Spin on a brake, recoil pad and have at it. Total weight with scope should be around 10lbs so packing will not be to much of a chore.

Or you can pick up the package rifle, ditch the scope, and build what I have for a few dollars less.

Practise with your 223 will help with costs considerably. There is little reason why you can't meet you goals if you are willing to put in the time and practise.

Have a read of the articles in my sig. That should give you a good start.

Jerry
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X2 ....Good advice.

For moose I prefer the 300 Win. 200gr combination. The lower recoil issue Jerry mentions is a valid point for the other 11 months of practice....Bottom line is that the 7 mag will get the job done....No argument there.

From what I have seen the SST expands pretty violently (at close range) so I might choose the 160 Accubond for moose.

If you have the money I might consider a fast twist barrel so you can stretch out your 223 a bit farther......

Good luck!
 
Want it to be a solid performer, 3/4" groups at 100yards 2" at 300yards 4" at 500yards and the potential for making shots to 1000 yards

Obtunded said:
The results you want are within the capabilities of most factory bolt guns. With hand loads, alsmost any factory gun should be able to give you the results you're after so pick a calibre and buy one.
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Uh, I dont think so! Unless you think a "Jim Borden" rifle is factory.

I laugh when people say their factory rifle will shoot 1/2 moa. Everybody shoots a good group once in a while but do they shoot consistently at that level ?

I hear this all the time from guys i know, then i go to the range with them and they can't hit paper at 400 yards.

Shooting consistent 2 " or less 5 shot groups at 300 yards will win you rifle matches in Canada.
 
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