bit the bullet, glass bedded rifle

madman25

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I have a 700 VLS 308 i use for my target shooting, which i feed my own ammo, and it was shooting pretty good, say 1 moa ish, sometimes less, sometimes more at 200m.

It would frustrate me though, sometimes it did great, and othertimes not so great, i am really diligent with my ammo i make and was getting to the point that it wasnt me on the bench causing these lame groups i would get.

so i decided to glass bed my rifle, and free-float the barrel, got a kit, took the stock into work and milled out the areas as per the kits instructions, and glassed the action to 2 " in front of the lug.

then delicatedly with a chisel i free floated the rest of the barrel.

well first thing i noticed is the diference in recoil, man its alot sharper blow, goes to show how much more solid the connection to the stock is.

second thing is my groups all improved as day went on, i snaked every 15-20 rounds.

now for the gravey, shot a PCDHFC, 200 meter range
1st is whole target, description shows how things improved as day went on
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23003003@N08/2202439694/
last group, i am quite pleased with this to say the least
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23003003@N08/2201649437/
this is a pic of the rig, pree glassing, taken by a good friend
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23003003@N08/2201659529/
 
glassed at rear bolt, and from 1/4 ahead of mag-well, to 2" past recoil lug, which pretty much covers 308 chamber
 
Interesting. I've learned that that's how most people do it, which is awesome. I'd always struggled to bed the entire action at all points where it makes contact with the stock - which is a royal PITA, ensuring that epoxy stays out of all the little crevasses around the trigger group and mag well.
 
Critical areas for bedding are from the front of the mag well to 1 to 2" infront of the receiver. Pay alot of attention to the recoil lug area. Rear action screw area should also be bedded. Other then that, the rest of the action can float.

Jerry
 
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