Are there any people out there that are using a spotting scope instead of a binocular? I have some old bino kicking around but they are nothing special, looking to get a budget spotting scope for hunting with a .308 out to 400 yards. Any suggestions or ideas? Thx
Blind Eye - spotting scope instead of bino
- Thread starter jtkrawiec
- Start date
Antlers get hard to identify and even harder to count at range with a cheap spotter too.
They also require a tripod or similar to use, trying to free hand something with 20x magnification or more is nearly impossible for most people.
Personally I'd never trade my binos for a spotting scope. Binos are just so much more convenient, especially with a bino harness. A spotter is a great addition to the kit, but it's not a replacement for binos.
Most binos max out at 10x or maybe 12x. Most spotting scopes are going to start at 15x and go to 45-60x. It is virtually impossible to hold a spotting scope still enough by hand to see anything.
Binos and spotting scopes are totally different tools.
Binos and spotting scopes are totally different tools.
- Location
- Fraser Valley, B.C.
I use a monocular. Vortex has a couple but I also like the Maven option. Typically the magnification is less than binos though.
All depends what you’re doing with them. If your stand hunting you can find a spotting scope that starts at 10 power these day however they likely don’t be cheap AND compact AND optically sound. You will likely get one or two of those three.
All three options have a place depending out the style of hunting you do. Archery I typically just take a monocular especially for stand hunts. Hillside in the thick is mono or Bino depending on the area and as the space starts to open then the longer glass starts to come out.
It’s really hard to substitute one optic for another in most situations. Rule of thumb for myself is if I don’t plan on glassing further than 250-300 yards the spotting scope doesn’t even come out. An beyond that it only comes when I know it’s going to be a game of glassing and counting a specific aspect other wise a Bino will get me located enough to move towards something an identify what I need to.
B
All depends what you’re doing with them. If your stand hunting you can find a spotting scope that starts at 10 power these day however they likely don’t be cheap AND compact AND optically sound. You will likely get one or two of those three.
All three options have a place depending out the style of hunting you do. Archery I typically just take a monocular especially for stand hunts. Hillside in the thick is mono or Bino depending on the area and as the space starts to open then the longer glass starts to come out.
It’s really hard to substitute one optic for another in most situations. Rule of thumb for myself is if I don’t plan on glassing further than 250-300 yards the spotting scope doesn’t even come out. An beyond that it only comes when I know it’s going to be a game of glassing and counting a specific aspect other wise a Bino will get me located enough to move towards something an identify what I need to.
B
Buy a rangefinder with good glass and 7x zoom and use it instead of binos. Make sure it has a tripod mounting hole to give you the option of using a monopod or tripod. 400 yards is not far for glassing deer or larger animals. Even with 7x zoom a deer at 400 would look like it was only at 57 yards with your naked eye.
Another option is to still use binoculars because they are much easier to hold steady when standing and unsupported than a rangefinder or monocular.
Another option is to still use binoculars because they are much easier to hold steady when standing and unsupported than a rangefinder or monocular.
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I have two spotting scopes (x40 and a x60 birding scope) from my archery competition days, these definitely need a tripod to mount. And a x10 birding monocular for walk around...
I said "birding" because all the bird watchers are the most picky for the glass clarity.
I said "birding" because all the bird watchers are the most picky for the glass clarity.
I've got a rangefinder that cost over $300 a few years back and it is so much darker in low light than my binos that cost the same sort of money. Plus field of view sucks. In my experience a rangefinder is a poor substitute, YMMV.
If you go the monocular route, whatever monocular you buy look for the following configurations 6X30mm, 7X35mm, 8X40mm, 8X42mm, 10X50mm or 12X56mm, Why? Because the human pupil dilates to around 5mm to 7mm in a low light situation and if you take the objective size and divide by the zoom factor you'll find the exit pupil of the device. So an 8X40mm monocular would have a 5mm exit pupil which is ideal for most adults (young eyes might be able to dilate to 7mm) and would look as bright as bright can be. If the exit pupil is less than 5mm the monocular will be darker than optimal. The 8X20mm birdwatching monoculars work fine on a sunny day when one's eye is only dilated to 2 or 3mm but for hunting at dawn or twilight would be very dark. Expensive lens coatings can boost the light transmission but can't overcome the laws of physics.
Perhaps your rangefinder like most, has a small objective lense and that's why it has a dark and tunnelling view. The model I have is a 6X zoom and has a larger than average 24mm objective lens (4mm exit pupil) it doesn't seem dark at all and the specified field of view is 400ft at 1000yds which is only 20% less than 6X binoculars. When I bow hunt I don't even bring my binos and only use the rangefinder.
This Hawke model might interest you. It's sold in many places and you may be able to get a look at one in person.
https://www.amazon.ca/Hawke-Sport-O...ef=sr_1_5?keywords=8x42+monocular&sr=8-5&th=1
Cheers
^ I have decent binos, and as I spend a lot of time glassing I'd never give them up for a monocular to save a few oz of weight. Sure they're lighter and smaller, but those gains aren't worth the downsides relating to eye strain and mental fatigue that come with only using one eye.
Maybe look at the Bushnell Legend scope, easy to hold like a regular bino, though the low end of 15X is likely too much for most hunters for general glassing
thne there is '1/2blind Hank' (true story) using his Swarovski 8x30 range finder as his glassing/ranging combo
thne there is '1/2blind Hank' (true story) using his Swarovski 8x30 range finder as his glassing/ranging combo
I just realized that the one eyed OP isn’t yet participating in the discussion and I’m trying to convince you to use a monocular or rangefinder even though you may have two working eyes.
Cheers
sillymike
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Often carry a Celestron Hummingbird while hiking
On the + side
Wider power range than binocular
It takes 1.25" astro. Eyepieces... in case you've ever fell down that rabbit hole
On the - side
With the zoom eyepiece, the FOV narrower than the bino
On the + side
Wider power range than binocular
It takes 1.25" astro. Eyepieces... in case you've ever fell down that rabbit hole
On the - side
With the zoom eyepiece, the FOV narrower than the bino
Often carry a Celestron Hummingbird while hiking
On the + side
Wider power range than binocular
It takes 1.25" astro. Eyepieces... in case you've ever fell down that rabbit hole
On the - side
With the zoom eyepiece, the FOV narrower than the bino
Is that the Celestron Hummingbird?
To the OP
I think there is a good case for sticking with binoculars, mainly because they are easier to hold when hunting and they have special bags and straps to keep them close at hand. You'll also have a backup eyepiece for wet weather if you keep the lenscaps on the non-working side. I don't think monoculars are that handy to carry unless you go for the smaller birdwatching ones and then the exit pupil is too small and too dark when the sun starts to goes down.
For target shooting spotting scopes are amazing. Even budget ones will show your .22 holes at 200 yards. But they are cumbersome and awkward for hunting unless you use them hunting in mountain ranges and have time to set them up. My spotting scope is a 15-45X60 model and I only run it between 15 and 20X zoom. Higher than 20x and the image darkens, and the eyebox gets finicky with little field of view. You also need a stable tripod or your life will be miserable.
Cheers
Your choice should be predicated on your primary purpose for an optic. Do you want to ‘find’ big game or ‘study’ an object that is easily located. If you want to ‘find’ game then the primary factor that will influence your choice is “why things are seen” … and that is due to shape, colour or movement. Of these three - movement (such as an involuntary flicking ear) will often give game away. You will have the best chance of detecting that movement while observing IF your optic has as wide a field of view as possible. High magnification means a narrow field of view and will not serve you as well as a lower magnification with a wide field of view.
Regretably most people will select the highest power optic they can find - and tbis is ok if you are planning on using a tripod and can accept the small exit pupil provided. AND you are inspecting a bird or target — however such an optic will challenging and tiresome to hand hold for any length of time and have a narrow field that may mean missing game.
Regretably most people will select the highest power optic they can find - and tbis is ok if you are planning on using a tripod and can accept the small exit pupil provided. AND you are inspecting a bird or target — however such an optic will challenging and tiresome to hand hold for any length of time and have a narrow field that may mean missing game.
