BLR 81 fired brass sticking in chamber?

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shortaction

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My buddy put his BLR away last fall and it was functioning fine then.

I took it out this weekend to sight in a new scope for him and fired brass are really difficult to extract. The shells are factory ammo (Winchester Power Point 150gr) and is part of box that he was already using. It is hard to see in the chamber but from what I can see I think it may have rusted a little. The ejected brass are a little scratched also.

Just wondering if there is any way to get at the chamber on a Model 81 BLR with steel receiver to give it a good cleaning?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks Todd
 
Might be possible to clean the chamber with a M-1/14 style ratchet chamber cleaning brush.
A better job could be done if the bolt were removed so that the chamber could be accessed easily. However, stripping and reassembling these rifles can be a bit of an adventure. Might be easiest to take it to a 'smith familiar with the Browning.
 
Have to agree, stripping them isn't too bad, timing can be a PIA particularly the first time.
A good chamber polishing job might be the ticket if it's not badly pitted, but as tiriaq said, consider professional assistance.
 
One thing that I have done worked for me with sticking brass.
Get a bore brush, probably a 50 or 45 cal, would work.
Attach it to a section of cleaning rod and chuck it up in a variable speed drill.
Then gently scrub the chamber with some copper solvent on the brush.
 
shootist22-250 said:
One thing that I have done worked for me with sticking brass.
Get a bore brush, probably a 50 or 45 cal, would work.
Attach it to a section of cleaning rod and chuck it up in a variable speed drill.
Then gently scrub the chamber with some copper solvent on the brush.
Click to expand...


So, would I put the rod down the barrel from the muzzle with the rod guide in place then attach the brush through the ejection port and then run the drill slowly and pull it back into the chamber?
 
shortaction said:
So, would I put the rod down the barrel from the muzzle with the rod guide in place then attach the brush through the ejection port and then run the drill slowly and pull it back into the chamber?
Click to expand...

That might work.

You could also use a 'roll-up' type jag and a patch with JB Bore Paste or some other mild abrasive on it.

You could also use a dowel that fits inside the bore and slot the chamber end. Put a chamber-length piece of 400 or 600 grit sand paper in the slot and spin the drill.

If the bore isn't as rusty as the chamber then you might want to protect the crown. You could put a few o-rings on the rod or dowel to keep it from contacting the barrel, epecially at the muzzle.

*edit* I just noticed above that you mentioned using a rod guide so I guess you were already thinking about protecting the crown. I missed that in the first read. *end edit*
 
i have a BLR that i had the same problem, it got worse over the years to the piont it took two hands on the lever to open it. took it to a smith and he had seen the same problem on this gun a few times. the slide, may be wrong name, haveing a brian fart to what the name is. the peice with the groves that has the bolt head on it. this is made of to soft of metel. and swiles. i never fired any heavy loads. he replaced mine and its smooth now, could be your problem. like i said the smith had seen it a few times with the BLR
 
As "dwight" stated the most common problem with the BLR is that the breech bolt carrier is softer than the pins that engage the camming slots cut into it. The rear thrust of the bolt head peens dents into the caming slots and although you can try and smooth them out a bit with a dremel tool the only real solution, if this is the culprit is to get the bolt carrier repalced.
 
When I lived in the north, it was my misfortune to have to work on a number of neglected and abused BLRs. Well maintained, they are smooth working. They do not withstand rough treatment well at all. Not a heavy duty rifle.
 
TwoTone said:
That might work.

You could also use a 'roll-up' type jag and a patch with JB Bore Paste or some other mild abrasive on it.

You could also use a dowel that fits inside the bore and slot the chamber end. Put a chamber-length piece of 400 or 600 grit sand paper in the slot and spin the drill.

If the bore isn't as rusty as the chamber then you might want to protect the crown. You could put a few o-rings on the rod or dowel to keep it from contacting the barrel, epecially at the muzzle.

*edit* I just noticed above that you mentioned using a rod guide so I guess you were already thinking about protecting the crown. I missed that in the first read. *end edit*
Click to expand...


These are all good ideas.

Thanks
 
Blue Mountain Sports Inc. said:
As "dwight" stated the most common problem with the BLR is that the breech bolt carrier is softer than the pins that engage the camming slots cut into it. The rear thrust of the bolt head peens dents into the caming slots and although you can try and smooth them out a bit with a dremel tool the only real solution, if this is the culprit is to get the bolt carrier repalced.
Click to expand...


Please excuse me if I seem a little thick, just trying to get this straight. It isn't the bolt lugs you are referring to but at the rear of the bolt where it attaches to the bolt slide? Can you visually see this problem if I was to inspect it?

Here is a little more info about the problem, not sure if this will help any.

After I would fire it the lever would move about 1/2" and the part that comes back and pushes the hammer down would move the hammer to about the half cocked position and stop then I would have to turn the gun over and grab the lever with my hand and hang onto the forearm, once it freed up there was no more resistance at all.

Thanks Todd
 
shortaction said:
My buddy put his BLR away last fall and it was functioning fine then...
Click to expand...

If it really was functioning fine when he put it away...

and

It acted up when you used it right from the 'get-go'....

and

There are signs of rust in the chamber....

and

The fired cases have longitudinal scratches on them...

then I would say it is more likely a rusted chamber than the problem with peened action parts. If it walks like a duck.....
 
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TwoTone said:
If it really was functioning fine when he put it away...

and

It acted up when you used it right from the 'get-go'....

and

There are signs of rust in the chamber....

and

The fired cases have longitudinal scratches on them...

then I would say it is more likely a rusted chamber than the problem with peened action parts. If it walks like a duck.....
Click to expand...


Right you are. Feet back on the ground where they belong.

First things first.

I will try to clean up the Chamber and go from there.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Todd
 
Put the rod down from the muzzle and screwed a cleaning brush (which I had wrapped with some fine steel wool) on and hooked up my cordless drill to the rod and turned nice and slow and pulled it back into the chamber. There was a bit of rust in the chamber and seemed to be a lot in the throat.

Went out and tryed it today and it is a lot better. No problem ejecting the empty brass normally, just maybe slightly more resistance than there should be. Think I will give it another go maybe with just a 35 cal brush on its own this time and really concentrate on the throat area.

Thanks for all the info guys.

Todd
 
Be careful not to over do the chamber cleaning using this method. It tends to 'clean' the middle of the chamber more than the ends, and can result in a barrel shaped chamber, if done to excess. Although it would take quite a bit with fine steel wool.
Keep that rod moving up and down the length of the chamber evenly while it's spinning.
It can also remove too much metal near the head of the case, resulting in less support in that critical area. More common if you use a fine grit paper wrapped on a rod, that is a tight fit in the chamber.
I frequently use this method to polish bores for hydraulic valves, that's why I know that.:redface:

A farmer described the motion as similar to jerking off a squirrel. How he knew that, I didn't really want to know!
 
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browning blr

those guns have lined chambers thus the need for small base dies when reloading. so take care when trying to clean up a chamber. i have seen a of good number of these blr,s with bulged chambers. nothing will fix them short of a new barrel. guys bring them to me stateing i was just out shooting and it started to get had to move the lever then it stuck closed .none of them were reloaders. nice looking wall hanger you have there. note that all of the ones i have seen were all in .308 win .
 
There is a plastic disc part in the action called the bolt stop. This part can crack, and cause problems. I machined a new one out of steel, and no problems since. Browning has diagrams on their website, and will send you a new one if you write them. Check it for cracks if you strip it down.

Good luck. These rifles a pretty fool proof if you use lots of oil.
 
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