Well that was what I was wondering. How, if you silver solder, do you keep the stainless silver and the blued section blued knowing that the heating will discolour the bbl bands?David Henry said:I allways soft solder mine in place, no one told me I couldn't!!!. I have to run the barreled action through the blueing tanks after as the heat from the soldering proccess discolours the blued bands etc. David.
I wondered about using epoxy..... Here's an example of what I am asking about.Tumbleweed said:I used one of those electric engravers that you use to mark tools, to roughen the exact area that I wanted the sight to sit on and also roughened the underside of the sight. Then I just used a very small amount of Accraglas, and glued it on.
Hard to say. I would think most quality jobs are soldered and then blued (if applicable). Like DH mentioned, if it is a Ruger band, there is usually a set screw under the sight blade.So, is it usually a friction fit?
No, I just ripped it off the net for information.gunrunner100 said:Who did the work on the rifle in the pic, any idea?
Thanks, I think that's the amswer I was looking for.tiriaq said:I've installed NECG banded front sight units like that. You adjust them for a drive fit, and there is a locking setscrew. Dimple the barrel for the tip of the screw. I suppose you could use soft solder or Loctite's sleeve and bearing locker. With a properly fitted band, silver solder shouldn't be necessary, although no harm in using it if you choose. The paste solder/flux mixes could be easiest to use, either soft or hard.