BM59 Trigger group, is there a trick?

[sean69]

Is there a trick to removing a BM59 trigger group? I seem to have one stuck on an Italian receiver, yanking on the trigger guard does nothing. even gave it a couple of love taps with a rubber mallet - won't budge at all! the only odd thing about the group is that it has a new winter trigger setup.

thoughts?

 

[purple]

Some questions/ideas;
1. Is the rifle cocked with the hammer back? it needs to be. Safety in off/ forward position?
2. To open a tight trigger guard, turn the rifle upside down in a firm rest, put a metal rod or screwdriver handle thru the back of the guard, grasp the rod with one hand on either side of the guard and then pull back and upwards to unlock the trigger guard
3. How did the rear portion of the trigger housing fit the stock when it was installed? Sometimes the stock needs to be cleared a bit to allow the rear portion of the trigger housing to be seated/unseated w/o sticking in the stock
4. How did the guard lock up when it was closed-very tight needing a tap with a rubber hammer to close and seat the guard or something less?
5. Its always a good idea to put a bit of grease on the 2 locking lugs of the guard before installing it. This facilitates locking/unlocking the guard w/o undue wear on the lugs which can cause a loose vertical fit in the stock over time.

 

[sean69]

Some questions/ideas;
1. Is the rifle cocked with the hammer back? it needs to be. Safety in off/ forward position?

yup & yup

2. To open a tight trigger guard, turn the rifle upside down in a firm rest, put a metal rod or screwdriver handle thru the back of the guard, grasp the rod with one hand on either side of the guard and then pull back and upwards to unlock the trigger guard

yup, same way as an M1, not budging

3. How did the rear portion of the trigger housing fit the stock when it was installed? Sometimes the stock needs to be cleared a bit to allow the rear portion of the trigger housing to be seated/unseated w/o sticking in the stock

no stock, just the barreled action

4. How did the guard lock up when it was closed-very tight needing a tap with a rubber hammer to close and seat the guard or something less?

Just clicked in [about a month ago - haven't fiddled with it since] no extra force needed as I remember

5. Its always a good idea to put a bit of grease on the 2 locking lugs of the guard before installing it. This facilitates locking/unlocking the guard w/o undue wear on the lugs which can cause a loose vertical fit in the stock over time.

hmmm good idea, will give it a try if I ever get this thing off!

thanks.

 

[purple]

Is/does the trigger guard unlock and open? If so, then is the problem just that the trigger housing won't disengage from the receiver?

Is the bolt and op rod installed? If so, do they retract to the rear?

 

[sunray]

You have a BM59 trigger group with a 'winter trigger guard' on an M1 Rifle receiver, correct?
A real BM59(evil thing that it is) is designed to be disassembled without tools just like an M1 Rifle. The only tool used on either was a cartridge. Trigger guard was either installed incorrectly or it's bent. Pry the trigger guard out. Gently, with either a screw driver or an FMJ cartridge.

 

[sean69]

*FACEPALM*

yea, the key is pull it BACK and up, my M1 just had to give it a quick yank straight out and it would disengage, this thing need to be pulled nearly straight back and ~then~ up, which I can do [now that I know the trick] with just my fingers.

Thanks purple

anyone wanna buy a BM59 trigger group?

-sean

 

[jocko417]

You figured it out before I could post

I know just how you feel, mine was really frustrating til I got the angle right. Once you have the "knack", it's easy

 

[purple]

The late style stamped guards are quite "springy" in relation to the early milled guards and most often require that they be disengaged by pulling back and then up on the rear of the guard. Using the metal rod method to unlock the guard with 2 hands as described lets you control this a bit easier. Its a good idea to wrap a cleaning patch around the rod so that the finish on the guard doesn't get scratched while opening it. You can also do this to unlock a tight milled guard which has a built in hole at the rear for the rod to pass thru.

The round locking lugs on the guard are critical to a tight vertical lockup and they do wear over time, hence the idea of using grease on the lugs to minimize wear when locking/unlocking the guard. Often a loose vertical lockup is caused by worn lugs so it is good to have a spare with full round lugs on hand. Guards with worn lugs can still be used with new stocks, like the Boyds, where the vertical lockup is quite tight. For a tight fit you should feel tension as the end of the trigger guard passes the tip of the trigger. A tight lockup is good; you do not want any looseness when the guard is locked up as this is ruinous to accuracy. Sometimes it is necessary to tap the guard with a rubber mallet to get it to close, but don't overdo this.