Boiling linseed oil.

2 thirds linseed oil and one third white shellac mix it up has worked well for me for many years hand rub it keep it warm sand lightly 00 wool after few coats.
 
Big Uke said:
.....But damn, the drying time is at least a week or 2 between coats. Definitely a long term project for over the winter or for those with oodles of patience.
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Bubba Yugga said:
I put my wood on the rear window deck of my sedan, and let the sun cure it quickly.
A new rub every few days for a really glossy durable finish in a month.
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I found that in the heat of summer that the first coat which soaks in a lot took a couple of days to cure. Note that oil with no solvents doesn't "dry" as such. It undergoes a heat and light related polymerization through oxidation thing. And that's why the warmth and light really helps. And why in a cool dark garage or basement it seems to take nearly forever.

Once the first coat was done I found that using the method of a couple or three drops well rubbed around the wood to barely make it seem wet cured in roughly an afternoon. So during the heat wave I was able to do a coat a day very comfortably.

Using the rear deck of the car as a "green house" is really clever. That or something similar in the yard for when the sun is shining would not be a bad idea at all.

Like Mike Webb posted earlier too it's a finish which is truly never really done. Even the cured oil is not all that hard and durable. So it slowly wears down and changes with age. My cowboy action shotgun is finished with BLO and I find that if I don't give it at least an annual maintenance coat it fails to shed water like it does when fresh. It is also so shiny after roughly 10 years now from all those two or three drop maintenance coats that it looks almost like a very thin sort of varnish coating. But very much more natural than the "Saran Wrap plastic" look of a lot of the thick clear coat finishes. And infinitely better than the shabby tinted varnish finishes on so many cheaper and even mid price guns.
 
I went from this Mossberg 500 field classic.....

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To stripping it with citristrip.......

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Using boiled linseed oil.....

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Finished product...

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Hope that helps đź‘Ť
 
First application; 50:50 boiled oil and turpentine (not mineral spirits) as both are natural products. If it is still available, you can add a few drops of "Japan Drier" to a small quantity of oil turpentine to speed up and toughen cure. Subsequent coats, use less or no turpentine, but continue with a few drops of Japan Drier. This will give you a good seal and protective finish, and more durable that pure BLO.

The first application will lift some micro-fibers, when completely dry, a light buff with super-fine steel wool will cut the fibers, and ensure a very smooth and even looking finish. Make sure to wipe or blow off before the second application.

paint_template-1
 
Meroh said:
First application; 50:50 boiled oil and turpentine (not mineral spirits) as both are natural products. If it is still available, you can add a few drops of "Japan Drier" to a small quantity of oil turpentine to speed up and toughen cure. Subsequent coats, use less or no turpentine, but continue with a few drops of Japan Drier. This will give you a good seal and protective finish, and more durable that pure BLO.

The first application will lift some micro-fibers, when completely dry, a light buff with super-fine steel wool will cut the fibers, and ensure a very smooth and even looking finish. Make sure to wipe or blow off before the second application.

paint_template-1
Click to expand...

You can get Japan drier at any paint store or most art supply stores, I use it all the time when using oils or enamels to speed drying and improve gloss and as a harder.
 
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