Bolt click on close
- Thread starter swtp
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I have a Remington 700 that’s been trued that makes a clicking sound as the bolt is being closed. When I push forward on the bolt handle while closing it there is no click.
Anyone else have this with their 700?
My older varmint special cycles smoothly.
I would be guessing that the firing pin main spring was not flattened or smoothed at its end - that "click" might be the spring end grabbing, then slipping to a new position. A pure wild-assed guess. Your comment about no click sound when pushing on the bolt - it would be loading up that spring enough that it would not slip? I do not recall a "click" sound on any of the bolt action rifles here - multiple brands and eras, but no Remington 700's.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Maybe you have "lug set back" on your receiver lug seats - as bolt closes it is "clicking" into that setback area? Where is the bolt handle when you hear that sound - going down? Not all the way ahead? Almost closed? Your main spring is probably compressed if you are near the end of the bolt travel - your sear on the cocking piece is applying pressure to pull the bolt body rearward - which would pull it into a set-back area - and not happen if you were pushing forward on the bolt handle as you closed the bolt.
Depending how your rifle was "trued" - when barrel is unscrewed, should be easy enough to see set-back on the receiver bolt lug seats with the bolt open or removed.
Depending how your rifle was "trued" - when barrel is unscrewed, should be easy enough to see set-back on the receiver bolt lug seats with the bolt open or removed.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
I am not really familiar with the breeching on a Remington 700 - if your bolt "root" has moved to 3 o'clock, then the bolt lugs have likely passed the sloped cams on the receiver seats, but also, that is the point where the firing spring would be compressed the most - so is possible from your description, it could be either of my guesses - or something else entirely. What does the person that "trued" it say? Was the barrel unscrewed and the lug seats looked at? Was a "new" firing pin spring installed?
OP,
Depending on how much material was removed from the integral lugs in the Truing process-
The forward end of the anti bind rail should have been laid back/beveled also.
Radius (1/16" R) the RH lower & LH upper aft bolt lug corners while you are at it & also radius the anti bind slot fwd & aft edges in the RH bolt lug
(opposite if southpaw configuation)
Depending on how much material was removed from the integral lugs in the Truing process-
The forward end of the anti bind rail should have been laid back/beveled also.
Radius (1/16" R) the RH lower & LH upper aft bolt lug corners while you are at it & also radius the anti bind slot fwd & aft edges in the RH bolt lug
(opposite if southpaw configuation)
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OP,
Depending on how much material was removed from the integral lugs in the Truing process-
The forward end of the anti bind rail should have been laid back/beveled also.
Radius (1/16" R) the RH lower & LH upper aft bolt lug corners while you are at it & also radius the anti bind slot fwd & aft edges in the RH bolt lug
(opposite if southpaw configuation)
Thanks Dan, that makes sense as the back end of the anti bind rail is showing signs of wear. Had the bolt freshly cerakoted.
I am not really familiar with the breeching on a Remington 700 - if your bolt "root" has moved to 3 o'clock, then the bolt lugs have likely passed the sloped cams on the receiver seats, but also, that is the point where the firing spring would be compressed the most - so is possible from your description, it could be either of my guesses - or something else entirely. What does the person that "trued" it say? Was the barrel unscrewed and the lug seats looked at? Was a "new" firing pin spring installed?
I haven’t spoken to the person who did the work. I bought it on the EE and the seller said it was trued before he bought it. Just had a new barrel put on it and I didn’t think to mention if before hand.
+1 on what DANS40X said.
Does it function correctly when it clicks / doesn't click? Could what you're hearing be the sear / trigger engaging? How does your cocking ramp and shroud look? Is the spring binding in the bolt? - So many things it could be.
Does it function correctly when it clicks / doesn't click? Could what you're hearing be the sear / trigger engaging? How does your cocking ramp and shroud look? Is the spring binding in the bolt? - So many things it could be.
based on Dans40X comments - I wonder at what point in removing material from forward face of the integral lugs .... and possibly the back of the bolt lugs (during a "truing" process) ... do you end up with a protruding striker/firing pin -- or at least a light primer strike? I believe the total striker travel is only .285 on a 700 Rem action (long or short)
- Location
- Western Manitoba
As posted above, I am not familiar with a Remington 700, or how it works. I think most of the rifles here have their firing pin travel more or less set within the bolt - can alter that a bit by grinding on cocking piece face or other means, but most have some sort of firing pin travel limit inside - not sure that I understand how alteration to receiver seats or rear of bolt lugs will alter the firing pin travel distance? If you have an excessively protruding firing pin, I think that is likely opposite of a "light" primer strike?
As posted above, I am not familiar with a Remington 700, or how it works. I think most of the rifles here have their firing pin travel more or less set within the bolt - can alter that a bit by grinding on cocking piece face or other means, but most have some sort of firing pin travel limit inside - not sure that I understand how alteration to receiver seats or rear of bolt lugs will alter the firing pin travel distance? If you have an excessively protruding firing pin, I think that is likely opposite of a "light" primer strike?
This is just a WAG of course and as I indicated I dont know if it is possible to remove so much material from the internal lugs and bolt lugs to influence this ... but is the 'click' the OP is experiencing actually the cocking piece snapping forward on to the trigger seer as the bolt is turned into battery.
If it is then that can result in a couple of things ... light striker or a protruding firing pin.
OP,
Remove the firing pin assy from the bolt body.
Insert the bolt into the receiver.
Push the bolt forward & SLOWLY rotate the bolt into battery.
With slight rearward pressure on the bolt handle.
SLOWLY rotate the bolt out of battery thru primary extraction.
Any catch/resistance to confirm your "CLICK" issue should have been felt in the above procedure.
If your "CLICKING" occurs during chambering a loaded round into the chamber....you have a brass case sizing issue.
Excessive material removed from the integral receiver lugs &/or bolt lugs during the truing process will NOT effect firing pin "STRIKER to SEAR HANF-OFF" or firing pin fall issues.
A Remington 2 lug is #### on OPEN & #### on CLOSE.
They are NOT of Military Rifle design.PERIOD.
Remove the firing pin assy from the bolt body.
Insert the bolt into the receiver.
Push the bolt forward & SLOWLY rotate the bolt into battery.
With slight rearward pressure on the bolt handle.
SLOWLY rotate the bolt out of battery thru primary extraction.
Any catch/resistance to confirm your "CLICK" issue should have been felt in the above procedure.
If your "CLICKING" occurs during chambering a loaded round into the chamber....you have a brass case sizing issue.
Excessive material removed from the integral receiver lugs &/or bolt lugs during the truing process will NOT effect firing pin "STRIKER to SEAR HANF-OFF" or firing pin fall issues.
A Remington 2 lug is #### on OPEN & #### on CLOSE.
They are NOT of Military Rifle design.PERIOD.
OP ... as a favour to humour me ... if you go to this link ht tps://youtu.be/gxU_k5OPqw8 and go to 1:52 on the 3d illustration you will see the back of the cocking piece just slightly proud of the bolt shroud ... when the rifle is fired the cocking piece will move forward into the shroud; when the action is opened the cocking piece will come back to be approx flush with the shroud (it will #### on 'opening' as Dan says.) then when the bolt is closed and turned down to lock you will see cocking piece then protrude just a touch further out from the shroud (the '#### on closing' - as Dan says).
Before you remove the firing pin as Dan suggests ... perhaps you could do this same exercise on your rifle (starting at 1:52 on the video) with a empty chamber and let us know if when you close the action completely and remove your hand from the bolt handle (and dont pull the trigger) does the cocking piece stay proud of the shroud or does it settle into the shroud a little? try it a few times
Before you remove the firing pin as Dan suggests ... perhaps you could do this same exercise on your rifle (starting at 1:52 on the video) with a empty chamber and let us know if when you close the action completely and remove your hand from the bolt handle (and dont pull the trigger) does the cocking piece stay proud of the shroud or does it settle into the shroud a little? try it a few times
OP ... as a favour to humour me ... if you go to this link ht tps://youtu.be/gxU_k5OPqw8 and go to 1:52 on the 3d illustration you will see the back of the cocking piece just slightly proud of the bolt shroud ... when the rifle is fired the cocking piece will move forward into the shroud; when the action is opened the cocking piece will come back to be approx flush with the shroud (it will #### on 'opening' as Dan says.) then when the bolt is closed and turned down to lock you will see cocking piece then protrude just a touch further out from the shroud (the '#### on closing' - as Dan says).
Before you remove the firing pin as Dan suggests ... perhaps you could do this same exercise on your rifle (starting at 1:52 on the video) with a empty chamber and let us know if when you close the action completely and remove your hand from the bolt handle (and dont pull the trigger) does the cocking piece stay proud of the shroud or does it settle into the shroud a little? try it a few times
AP
IF you install a S/A firing pin assy in a L/A bolt you will NOT have "Striker to Sear" Hand Off issues in a Remington 2 lug action.
The OP's issue is in the front receiver ring,not the aft end of the bolt.
AP, watched the video and did as you suggested. Everything seems to work as it should.
Dan, did as you suggested and there’s the smallest of snags at the same position as the click. I’m thinking the leading edge of the anti bind slot is catching ever so slightly.
Dan, did as you suggested and there’s the smallest of snags at the same position as the click. I’m thinking the leading edge of the anti bind slot is catching ever so slightly.
AP, watched the video and did as you suggested. Everything seems to work as it should.
Dan, did as you suggested and there’s the smallest of snags at the same position as the click. I’m thinking the leading edge of the anti bind slot is catching ever so slightly.
excellent! and thanks for indulging me. Hopefully that light striker issue you mentioned will be easy to deal with.
Jonnyofalltrades
Regular
- Location
- North-central Saskatchewan
Excessive material removed from the integral receiver lugs &/or bolt lugs during the truing process will NOT effect firing pin "STRIKER to SEAR HANF-OFF" or firing pin fall issues.
A Remington 2 lug is #### on OPEN & #### on CLOSE.
They are NOT of Military Rifle design.PERIOD.
Theoretical question here.
So what happens if you remove 3/8" from the lugs and abutments?
Would it still have no effect on striker fall/handoff?
Not something we think about often, as blueprinting is usually done at the front end first, back end/trigger last, but removing material from the locking surfaces certainly does change striker fall.