Bolt Knob

Helly

Helly

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Ontario
Looking for advice on the best method to change a bolt knob.

I have a Remington 700 SPS Tac (non SD) in the stock configuration mounted in a MagPul Hunter stock. The setup is perfect for what I want it for, for hunting purposes, save for the bolt knob.

My question is, can anyone recommend a gunsmith that would be able to chop the original knob and thread the end to add a bigger knob?

Any other suggestions how I could get to the same result? I know companies like MDT have an add-on knob but not exactly the end product I was hoping for.

Thanks,
Helly
 
The job is best done with a jig and a lathe or mill. I use a PT&G jig in my lathe.
Some folks have had good luck doing it by hand. A bit risky.
There must be shops doing this rather standard job. Gunco? TacOrd?
Where in ON are you located?
 
Don't cut the present knob off... It is better to machine the existing knob down in diameter and then thread... it gives a longer length.

I used to do them by hand and it was a lot of labour... but buying a jig isn't cheap either...

The last one I did - for myself...
700-bolt-handle.jpg
 
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I have found that for me to set up the bolt body in the jig, turn down the knob, thread the shank, and turn, knurl (if desired) and finish a knob takes perhaps an hour and a half. 5/16-24 works nicely. I generally blast and cold blue the knob. Doing it by hand, the knob has to be cut down, filed to create a peg and then threaded with a die.
Got the jig used. Chap bought it, then realized his lathe wasn't really big enough to swing it properly.
If the bolt body has to be mailed back and forth, add $50 to whatever the smith is charging.
 
There must be shops doing this rather standard job.
Click to expand...
Yessir!


I do this on a CNC Mill, "turning" the old knob and thread milling in one set up. Same result as guntech's method, this makes for a strong, straight and true thread that is integral to the rest of the handle.

Cost is $100+return shipping and current turnaround is about a week and a half.

Cheers!
Paul.
 
PR Cook said:
Yessir!


I do this on a CNC Mill, "turning" the old knob and thread milling in one set up. Same result as guntech's method, this makes for a strong, straight and true thread that is integral to the rest of the handle.

Cost is $100+return shipping and current turnaround is about a week and a half.

Cheers!
Paul.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I’m looking for, will be in contact! Thanks!
 
To those of concern/interest-

The knob has to butt to a shoulder or the threads will take all of stress(s) & will break.

Do NOT rule out the voids/inclusions in any Rem cast bolt handle.

When the handle is properly TIMED,a TactiKool/baseball Bat Knob is NOT required to CYCLE said bolt!!
 
guntech said:
Yes atrociously hideous. Definitely not suitable for a Remington.
Click to expand...

I can't decide if you're earnestly agreeing, or being very facetious with that. It can be read either way. :cool:

PR Cook said:
Yessir!


I do this on a CNC Mill, "turning" the old knob and thread milling in one set up. Same result as guntech's method, this makes for a strong, straight and true thread that is integral to the rest of the handle.

Cost is $100+return shipping and current turnaround is about a week and a half.

Cheers!
Paul.
Click to expand...

That's really nice work. I would suggest a proper threadmill if you want to do the op a lot quicker. it could be done in about 30 seconds with a multi-tooth threadmill.
 
DANS40X said:
To those of concern/interest-

The knob has to butt to a shoulder or the threads will take all of stress(s) & will break.

Do NOT rule out the voids/inclusions in any Rem cast bolt handle.

When the handle is properly TIMED,a TactiKool/baseball Bat Knob is NOT required to CYCLE said bolt!!
Click to expand...

No, it isn't required but on many factory and even custom rifles the bolt handles are very close to the scope, when lifted fully and just barely clear.

This can be really awkward when wearing gloves or the fingers are cold/stiff.

The larger/extended knob, tacticool or not, can be a real bonus.

I am presently working on a Mauser 98 standard length action that has the original military bolt handle, bent down and the bolt nob flattened on the bottom to just clear the stock.

I don't do a lot of these but I have done a few in the past.

Instead of using steel for the extension, I like to add a little ''bling'' to it and use brass.

Most people will tolerate bolt nobs that just barely clear their scope ocular rings. I prefer not to.

I've seen some real butcher jobs done though, by smiths that should know better and can fully appreciate the concerns when it comes to getting the extended bolt attached.

I haven't seen a commercial offering that I like, so I make my own, to suit the needs of each specific rifle.

Most commercial rifles really don't need a tacticool bolt nob, but it's all about what any individual "personally likes"

If you don't want or like an extended bolt nob, then don't put one on. If you like them, even for the ''cool factor'' by all means get one attached.

I usually thread, then solder the nobs in place. A good Loc Tite or epoxy glue would work as well.

I've seen folks on hunts who have somehow managed to lose the nob along the trail. That's when things get difficult.
 
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PR Cook said:
Yessir!


I do this on a CNC Mill, "turning" the old knob and thread milling in one set up. Same result as guntech's method, this makes for a strong, straight and true thread that is integral to the rest of the handle.

Cost is $100+return shipping and current turnaround is about a week and a half.

Cheers!
Paul.
Click to expand...

Can that knob be knurled ?
 
Fatcatsdad: Sure thing! My knobs are built-to-order so design is entirely up to you!

Blastattack: You are absolutely correct! a multi toothed thread mill would reduce cycle time for threading. However, I haven't found cycle time to be the bottleneck in a case like this, set up time is. Current cycle time for threading is right around a minute and the same tool can be used to cut a variety of pitches... I tend to save my expensive thread mills for internal/production work.

Paul.
 
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