Bolt tough to close on reloads

[BCRider]

IF you're setting the die up so it barely touches then when under loading pressure the whole setup, dies, bushing, ram arms and even the press all will stretch or deform just very slightly. But if you're only looking for that last couple of thousandths it can add up to a tight bolt.

What you gain by turning the die down another quarter or half turn so that the ram can't quite get up to top dead center is the ability to remove that flex and be sure you're fully closing up on the die with the shell holder.

As H4831 says too you're shooting yourself in the foot by screwing it down past where there's about a quarter to half turn of "interference" at the top. You lose your lever and arc of the arms mechanical advantage. So set it to where it touches lightly then try a half turn more. I'll bet that fixes it.

If not then you need to shave down the shell plate or nose of the die.

If there's numbers stamped on the surface of the shell plate that the sizing die hits use a sharpening stone or sandpaper on a flat surface to remove any raised burrs. That alone might be your tight bolt issue if the numbers are deeply stamped and turned up a tall burr.

If you need to remove more then use the same sharpening stone or oiled sandpaper to hone down the nose of the die in small amounts until it works.

This is NOT the time for a grinder or even a power sander. One touch on either might remove way more than you need or planned on removing. Go slow with the hand method and work into it.

 

[bigedp51]

If you do not have access to a machine shop I do not understand why anyone would want to try and remove material from the bottom of a die. A shell holder is the cheapest part in the equation, it is easy to check with a vernier caliper or micrometer for squareness. And if you mess up your only out a few dollars for a new shell holder and not $40.00 for a new die.

So "WHY" modify a sizing die for one rifle when all you need to do is modify a shell holder and make dimension "X" shorter and push the case further into the die.

 

[Kryogen]

If you do not have access to a machine shop I do not understand why anyone would want to try and remove material from the bottom of a die. A shell holder is the cheapest part in the equation, it is easy to check with a vernier caliper or micrometer for squareness. And if you mess up your only out a few dollars for a new shell holder and not $40.00 for a new die.

So "WHY" modify a sizing die for one rifle when all you need to do is modify a shell holder and make dimension "X" shorter and push the case further into the die.

Because the coax does not use shell holders. (It could, but that defeats the purpose)
You cannot mess cutting a die. If its too short, just adjust it so it does not touch the jaws.

 

[chrismc]

I have had nothing but issues using brass from a 5R and then into a Savage LRPV - exactly as you state... tried messing with dies, and in the end, to keep accuracy and less grief, i simply keep brass for each rifle, and they don't share! No problems since.
I am guessing brass springback from different headspace in each rifle is the issue you are having. I would bet the cases have been shot and loaded a few times in the Remmy?? My Tikka's had a tighter chamber than my Remmy's.

 

[H4831]

Well Ed, you have actually confirmed what I said, there is no cam over, it is just a figure of speech, widely used in reloading.
Your article refers to cam over, as related to the dies, whereas it is the press that stops the ram action before it quite reaches top dead centre.
Since the great pressure of the ram is reached on that final bit before top dead centre, as BC Rider points out, the last bit of handle movement feels like it was going over.
This sentence from your post, Ed, sums it up.

"Note that you will feel the Ram/Shellholder contact the resizing Die before the stroke is completed. Completing the Ram Stroke will feel as though you are snapping the latch on a toolbox."

But of course, the press does not allow the ram to go past dead centre.

 

[KePet]

Had this same problem with the broth-in-laws .270. Also a friend with a .308. Solved the problem by going to a "small base" resizing die. I understand that it works the brass a little more, and you won't get as many reloads out of your brass, but it solved the problem. The .270's and .308's are now interchangeable in any of the rifles that they own.

 

[thump_rrr]

With the exception of the Foster Co-Ax a set of Redding Competition shell holders.
http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/35-competition-shellholder-sets

 

[Dogleg]

Some presses cam over, some don't. My Hornady most definitely does and the ram starts going back down again. My Rockchucker Supreme doesn't, and there is a block that prevents it.

 

[Kryogen]

You dont need a headspace gauge to adjust your die, but its a nice tool to use if you have one.

 

[mark222]

I found the odd round hard to chamber in my 25 06 and discovered that the chamber is a few thousands shorter than typical. Once I trimmed my cases slightly more than the max length they all chambered fine. FYI, I would see marks on the headstamp on the tight rounds after chambering.

 

[BCRider]

Some presses cam over, some don't. My Hornady most definitely does and the ram starts going back down again. My Rockchucker Supreme doesn't, and there is a block that prevents it.

This has been my experience too. They all have a travel limit but on some presses it allows the ram's arms to go just a degree or two past TDC. And if the nose of the sizing die is set up to produce some but not too much pressure I can feel when it just passes TDC.

I've got a Hornady that does just that but my Lyman and Dillon presses don't produce that same over the top feel if set for any slight interference effect. So it seems to depend on the press brand and style.