Bore sighting?

Tiwaz

Tiwaz

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How accurate is it? Or better yet how accurate should one expect it to be? Here is my problem, new rifle (new to me) mounting a new scope take it to a local gunshop to have them bore sight it before going to the range. Target set at 100 and first shot is no where on the paper or the new target board either. I take another shot thinking that it must be me as that was the first shot I'd taken with it. still nothing. Try the target that I set at 50 finally on the paper ten inches right and 3 down??? what the hell????? why even bother with bore sighting? So now the question that I have is should I look at trying to adjust the rings to correct the windage or should it be okay? FWIW the rifle is a Savage 10fple in .223 in the Choate stock and its using leupold std bases and rings.

Thanks
 
I have no faith in bore sighters. My favorite method is to take the bolt out, pick a distant spot(I use an electric pole in the feild beside my house) and rest the rifle on something suitable(I use the roof of my car and a rucksack)
Look through the bore at your distant object and center it in the bore. Carefully raise your head and see where the cross hairs are in relation to your object in the bore. Assuming you have enough adjustment in your scope, you should be able to screw the scope onto the object in the bore.(it will take a few times, checking and adjusting)
If you can "aim" at an object a couple of hundred yds away in the bore, and raise your head to the scope(obviously trying not to move the rifle) then when you start to shoot, you should be pretty close, or on the page at least.
Works for me!
(might not be a good idea to try at home if you live in town!)
 
Bore sighting is pretty rough, and if it gets you on the paper at 25 yards, that's good enough. If the windage is way out, yes, I would adjust the windage using the rings and base if they have that design. Might as well leave the scope adjustments centred as they can be.
 
Migrant, I do something like that, but I use a plumb string, with a weight to hold it vertical. That way I can make sure the scope is set correctly in the rings as well. If you are going to zero it, first crossover of sights and bore should be around 25 yards. If you zero it for 200 yards, the bullet will be way low as it only falls from point of aim of the bore. When you zero it up closer, like 25 yards, its crossing the two lines sooner, which gives the bullet more of an upward initial trajectory. Ah, whatever works for you.
 
With any method, I would start at 50 or even less just to see where the first one goes! Once you have your windage, then you can mess around with elevation depending on what kind of distance you expect to be shooting.
 
Bore sighing might put you on the page @ 25 yards. Migrant Hunters method is probably the best way - unless you have a laser / arbor system.

Hakx
 
The string is a good idea, I hate to pick up someone"s rifle and see the scope turned round in the rings. I have to restrain my self from saying anything as some folks don"t take constructive criticism!
(did see a .22 with the elevation turret at the side and the windage at the top!)
 
We mount hundreds of scopes a year and of course bore sight them all since we don't have a range on premise. We use the expanding arbor style (except .17 that is solid). We have found this method to be the most reliable (and fast) system available to us for sighting various scopes on different guns for all calibers. Most customers report back to us that at 100 yds we are usually on the target (8.5"x11"). We found in the past that you must handle the arbors carefully as we bent one slightly and this had a dramatic effect on accuracy. Phil.
 
migrant hunter said:
The string is a good idea, I hate to pick up someone"s rifle and see the scope turned round in the rings. I have to restrain my self from saying anything as some folks don"t take constructive criticism!
(did see a .22 with the elevation turret at the side and the windage at the top!)
Click to expand...

Crooked cross-hairs drive me nuts as well, some people should shoot dots just to save me the anguish.;) The problem isn't that people can't see when their scopes are level, it's that it is so easy to cant the rifle underneath it. Sometimes turning the scope and using the elevation for windage makes sense. A friend's custom 22/250 built on a 788 sends the ejected empties into the cover when mounted conventionally. Turn it and the problem goes away. He's smart enough to understand right-hand thread so the markings don't matter. Many scopes allow you to change the dials around. Some autoloaders beat their scope's covers and turrets with ejected empties as well. That can't be good.
I might be missing something simple, but if I were left-handed I think I would turn all my scopes that didn't have side parallax adjustments, especially those with turrets. Since I shoot with both eyes open, I wouldn't want to try looking around the knob. Besides, why have a right-handed scope on a left handed rifle?
I must have way too much time on my hands if I'm thinking about this.:redface:
 
Newer worked for me, newer was able to get even on paper for 50 yards using bore sighter , if you have ability to start from 25 yards then it will be ok, but on my range y can not shoot center-fire at 25. 50 yards is way to far.
Rimfire I newer actually bore sighting, starting from 25 yards you will be ok with out bore sighting at all.
 
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