Borwning Superposed - built in '69 - no visible rust/salt problems - opinions needed

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Maynard Rowley

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My uncle has a Browning Superposed 12ga Magnum that he bought new in 1969. I believe this means his gun was built during the time that salt wood was being used. The gun shows no visible signs of rust or discoloration on any of the exposed metal parts. Other than the typical hunting wear found on a 50 year old gun it actually looks fine.

My uncle still has the "lifetime guarantee" card bearing his name and I've heard that Browning will replace salt wood stocks for the original owner. I called Browning USA today and they confirmed that this is the case, at least in the US. I still have to call Browning Canada to confirm if that is the case here as well. Is having the stock replaced something that my uncle should consider doing even if his isn't showing outward signs of salt? Will this change the value of the gun in any way?

I also have a semi-related question about the way the gun is choked. My uncle ordered the gun choked Full & Full but wishes he wouldn't have. If he sends it back to Browning for stock work I'd assume they could re-choke however he wishes at the same time. Would that detract from the gun's value? What if he had it machined for screw-in chokes?

My uncle is getting older and has started parting with some of his guns. He's choosing to keep this one (for now). But I'd hate to see him do something to it that will make it undesirable when he does decide to sell it.
 
There's a quick and easy way to test the wood to determine if it was cured with salt. At the moment I can't remember but go on Shotgun World to the Browning section and it'll be there. . If your uncle's gun is a round knob, long tang it most likely is not salt wood. Round knob short tang it's possible and flat knob short tang most likely if not for certain.

I believe the barrels on a Superposed are too thing for choke tubes. Briley thin walls, possible bit I wouldn't do it. . If Browning opened up the chokes they would mark it accordingly with the correct stamps and I doubt that would affect the value. If you had a local gunsmith do it and didn't have the proper stamps, that's a different story.
 
Remove a screw from the Butt Plate or Pad to see if it is rusted.
Also, there is a chemical that one place a drop on the wood to see a reaction to confirm the presence of salt as well.
I sent a pm to the op with some reading and you tube watching to find an answer.
Rob
 
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A Grade I Superposed in 12 gauge is not a valuable gun such that you should worry about altering the chokes to something useful. You can find pretty nice examples for $1,000 to $1,200.
If it is a higher grade gun, altering the chokes would hurt the gun's value.
The first thing to do is to confirm if the gun has any salt issues.
 
Take the stocks off and see if there is any pitting. If all looks good, I wouldn't worry about it after 50 years.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Gun is a round knob short tang. Has some simple engraving in the receiver but I don't know enough about these guns to know what grade that makes it. I think it's a grade I. Had my aunt send me a pic. See link below:

https://i.imgur.com/zvxRuxl.jpg
 
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That is a grade one with a fair amount of bluing loss as seen in the picture. Also shows gold worn off the trigger. It is not in collector condition at all, shooter value only. If there is no salt wood, Browning is not going to replace and reblue the gun.
 
If it was a salt wood gun, you'd have seen the consequences by now. As stated above, this is a nice gun, but not a collectible. The barrels on this gun are not chrome plated, so relatively easy to open up by a competent smith. If the family intends to hold on to it, you should learn how to maintain it ( lube critical action points, clean bores, etc)
 
Thanks. Having never seen a salt wood gun I wasn't sure if we had to worry about this one or not. Sounds like we likely don't. Next time I'm at my uncles I might remove the butt pad and check the screws for rust. If they look OK then I'll tell my uncle to forget that I ever mentioned salt.
 
Look closely at where the wood meets the stock, if there is no slight pitting or rust then chances are that you don't have salt wood. If there is slight pitting or rust then pull the stock to do the test for salt wood using silver nitrate. Like others have said, the gun isn't worth much other than sentimental value so if it isn't rusted then love it like it is and shoot it!
 
I realize it isn't a collector gun but what would the value of the gun be? I don't think it will be long until my uncle decides to part with it. None of my cousins have interest so the gun will likely be sold. I'd like to give my uncle an idea of what he could expect to get from it. I might just buy it from him myself but I'd like to make sure he's getting fair price.
 
Maynard Rowley said:
I realize it isn't a collector gun but what would the value of the gun be? I don't think it will be long until my uncle decides to part with it. None of my cousins have interest so the gun will likely be sold. I'd like to give my uncle an idea of what he could expect to get from it. I might just buy it from him myself but I'd like to make sure he's getting fair price.
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Already answered. Over $1000. Under $1200.
 
You won't need silver nitrate solution if you pull a butt screw and don't find deep rust.
Might be wise to do the easy step first, particularly since you don't see other signs of corrosion.
 
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