Bought a savage 10t 308

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jona710

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I just picked up a savage 10t in 308 when i was home last haven't shot it yet

I'm wondering if anyone has made any changes to their similar models just out of curiosity, anything you guys didn't like or needed adjusting?

I also have a 4-18x44 ffp mil/mil scope I was going to mount to it with 24.0 MRADS of elevation adjustment. Most of the ranges around here aren't very long. At what distances would a moa rail replacement be necessary?
 
You may want to add a muzzle break (I recommend Heathen) and a cheek rest. That's the minimum to start with. As for the rail, if you plan to shoot 500-1000m, you may need a 20MOA rail. If not, stick with what you have. Though, I think all 10T come with a 20MOA EGW rail from the factory. So, your question "At what distances would a moa rail replacement be necessary?" remains unclear to me ...
 
At 1000 meters with 168gr SKM Federal your drop will be around 14 mrad. It depends on how much room will you have after zeroing in your rifle. I would say you can shoot easily up to 800 meters as you only need 9mrad and you should have at least 10-12 left after zeroing your rifle.
 
I am finally replacing the cheap Tupperware stock that it came with. Couldn't stand the flexing and stability problems with it anymore. Along with a new trigger.
 
Love my ESS Chassis, round count with 10TR in chassis is over 400 right now and still enjoy as much as day 1.
Your 10T and 10TR are very similar, you should enjoy that firearm!
Even when was in cheap accustock, was able of sub-moa without even forcing it.

For reference, I installed a steel ATRS 20moa rail, which sat very perfectly. I was all set up to bed it, and it seems it does not need any bedding because it's so well machined (the atrs rail)
Still running accutrigger, when cranked down, I get 2# trigger exactly, which is what I ran my 1911s at so that's good for me.

 
MartyK2500 said:
Love my ESS Chassis, round count with 10TR in chassis is over 400 right now and still enjoy as much as day 1.
Your 10T and 10TR are very similar, you should enjoy that firearm!
Even when was in cheap accustock, was able of sub-moa without even forcing it.

For reference, I installed a steel ATRS 20moa rail, which sat very perfectly. I was all set up to bed it, and it seems it does not need any bedding because it's so well machined (the atrs rail)
Still running accutrigger, when cranked down, I get 2# trigger exactly, which is what I ran my 1911s at so that's good for me.

[IMGhttp://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s279/MartyK2500/FBDF1666-533D-4303-8FE5-BD6BA41F57B4_zpsm6eglg4t.jpg[/IMG]
Click to expand...

Nice chassis!

I'm debating a bipod as well. What one do you have there? Also do you know where I can get a 10 round mag that will fit my 10t?
 
I am running a Harris 6-9'' Swivel bipod.
It's relatively cheap and simple, and since I do not know much about bipods I didn't know what else to run.

10 round mags that fit a Savage stock, are overpriced.
My take on it, wait until you get a chassis or AICS magazine compatible stock, then buy AICS compatible 10 round mags.
Much cheaper than buying savage mags, and will fit Remington, tikka, savage, etc... For future builds, as long as chassis or bottom metal is AICS compatible

If you must equip your savage with 10 rounds in factory stock


http://www.theammosource.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_212_103&products_id=6930

EDIT : these savage mags sure have dropped in price.
I had sold mine for 120$, as my 10TR came with a 10 rounds mag
 
I'm not a huge Savage fan, but I did pick up a 10 HS or whatever model, bit bubbad up but shoot great. With the Badger brake it's like shooting a 222... throws the first round and then it will put everything else in the same hole. Removed the accu-blade because I had a few FTF's with it, trigger is pretty good otherwise.
 
Shooterz said:
I picked one up as well from IRG.
Put a Vortex Viper 6x24x50 EBR-1 Moa nice scope. Illuminated reticle.
I was going to go with this muzzle break : http://hical.ca/competition-muzzle-brake-5-8-x-24-threads-blued/
Anybody used this break before ? Thoughts.?

Eventually going with the MDT ESS Chasis
Click to expand...


I have a Savage 10 PSR in 308 with 18.5" barrel, kept it in the plastic stock as its my hunting gun and still get 1/2 MOA with my handloads.
I get similar results with 168 grain Hornady HPBT, AMAX and Berger bullets.
I was able to get my factory trigger down to 1.75 lbs but also have a Rifle Basix Sav-1 in my wifes Model 11 in 243 and have that down to 2.2 lbs. Both have a nice clean break with basically no take up on the Sav-1.
That brake looks like it should do you well, I have a brake on every rifle I own, makes it easier to practice and shoot lots without banging up the shoulder. I find the use of brakes and lots of dry fire help to eliminate any flinching during the trigger pull and has helped with my accuracy.
I Have an HS3 chassis on my 6mm SLR and love it, the ESS looks fantastic also.
XLR and the Masterpiece Arms also make great Aluminum Chassis, but MDT is Canadian.
If weight is a concern definitely get the lighter skeleton stock or something else as I believe mine weights like 2.2 lbs or as much as the rest of my HS3 chassis. Although on that particular rifle the extra weight on the rear helps to balance the rifle with my MTU contour barrel.
Have fun, Savages are great shooters.
 
Seem to have that first shot flyer figured out....just shoot it into the bush lol.
I think I can still improve on this with a bit of playing, 5 rounds in there.
 
In my 10TR i used to have a 1st round flyer
Until i stopped cleaning the bore!
As long as i shoot in dry environments, no bore maintenance whatsoever.
When i get to the range, 1st shot right on the bull with following bundled close
 
I've gone out to 1k with the factory 0-moa rail and a little holdover. If you shoot out there regularly then get a 20-moa rail, otherwise it's fine the way it is.

I put on a cheek rest but probably didn't need to.

There are two forward sling loops. I mounted the bipod to the rear loop since I don't use a sling, less forend stock flex. I used a sling mount and some tie-wire from the front loop to tie to the front of the bipod where the little key-ring would normally go to prevent it from swiveling. Rock solid mount.


 
I have a 10 FCP-K. I decided to replace the Accu-Stock with a Bell & Carlson M40, and I chopped the factory 3-port brake to a 1-port brake. I'm still messing around with ammo and starting to reload. I think a nicer scope is the next purchase for me (currently running a Vortex Diamondback HP 3-12 x 42).
 
I have a 10tr 308 in a MDT tac-21 chassis and the skeleton bit stock that's fully adjustable love it shoots great I have a vortex 5.5×24×50 scope on it love it
 
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