Bought a used Glock 22 (Gen 2) - what do I need to know?

tobin said:
2) I've heard a popular mod is to get an aftermarket 9mm bbl and to over-load the .40 mags with 9mm. Worth doing?

Just to clarify, you would be changing to a .40-9mm conversion barrel, you cannot drop a regular 9mm Glock barrel into the Glock 22. If you put a conversion barrel in, it would take you out of IPSC Production if you did that but you can download .40 and still make the gun run if you reload ammo in your stock .40 Glock barrel. A 180 gr. .40 bullet can be reloaded to both shoot softly and still run the gun 100%. Stick to plated bullets, they are just a little more expensive than lead.
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Not quite the same, but my 12 yr old son shoots a 40 in production division and I have it down to powerfoactor of 130, absolutely no muzzle jump when he pulls the trigger. Way less snappy then a 9mm and I am glad I went that route for him. (Plus I can just change the recoil spring and use it for my back up gun in Standard division).
 
hillbros_96 said:
Not quite the same, but my 12 yr old son shoots a 40 in production division and I have it down to powerfoactor of 130, absolutely no muzzle jump when he pulls the trigger. Way less snappy then a 9mm and I am glad I went that route for him. (Plus I can just change the recoil spring and use it for my back up gun in Standard division).
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What did you do to get it that low? Presumably a reload recipe and a different spring tension?
 
I have used 3.6 gr. of Titegroup and a 180 gr. plated bullet, gun should run with stock spring. You can go lower but need to go to a lighter recoil spring like 13 lb.

Also a little more mass with 180's than 124 gr. 9mm to knock over poppers.
 
Claven2 said:
What did you do to get it that low? Presumably a reload recipe and a different spring tension?
Click to expand...

Yes off the top of my head, I am at 4grs of longshot. He is shooting a M&P 40 and I could shoot it without changing springs, but I ended up putting a lower Wolff spring in it because he is a little weak wristed and would get it to stove pipe. Other then that it works really well, I am impressed with the load and how clean it is as well.
 
Well I got it out today and put 100 rds of 180gn Blaser Brass through it. Some observations:

1) I Had it, a Nagant Revolver and a Chinese military tokarev Type 54 pistol out. I shot the glock the worst of the three.
2) At 15 yards, the front sight is thick enough that it basically covered the whole black bull area of a standard 25m pistol target. The other guns I brought had much finer sights and were easier to aim precisely.
3) The trigger was worse (to me) than a wartime rough-made Nagant revolver in single action. I didn't expect that. I literally shot tighter 25 round groups with both the tokarev and Nagant than I was able to do with the Glock shooting 5 rounds groups.
4) The trigger was ergonomically uncomfortable. I suppose I'll get used to it, but the centrally mounted safety was chafing on my finger a little - I noticed the discomfort AFTER I was done shooting. Like if I'd kept going I might have gotten a blister on the ball of my finger, if that makes sense?

Now that said, it ran really well and the mag changes were faster than any single-stack without a mag well. With practise, I know I could get pretty fast with the Glock.

I will need to check the trigger pull weight on this thing though - I think my poor groups were likely a function of a thick sight blade and heavier trigger than I'm used to. I suspect the gun is a police trade-in so I wonder if I have a heavier duty trigger in it or something?

When I was shooting slow and deliberate, I had probably 10" groups at 15m. If I sped it up, I sometimes wasn't even on paper. The .40 was a bit snappy, but no more so than 7.62x25TT - at least not noticeably so.

I guess like all things, it will come down to practise?
 
Police guns have heavier triggers by their specification, usually 8 lb or even higher, standard is 5.5 lb and they can be made a lot lighter by switching parts. Show the gun to someone familiar with Glocks and they will know right away if its the heavier trigger. If you know how to tear down the frame, you could see what kind of trigger spring is in it, it may be the New York trigger spring which would be adding the weight. All these parts are easily changed but you must do your research on how to disassemble the Glock. Factory .40 is a bit snappy for sure.

Sights and the trigger are the two most common mods to a Glock.
 
Hmm... not the most scientific method, but I pulled the trigger with a digital fish scale and it was breaking between 8 and 10 pounds. Might be a NY trigger in my glock :(

Will get the local smith to check it, and if needs be, will see if a stock trigger setup can be sourced (?)
 
There are lots of people selling both OEM and aftermarket Glock trigger parts in Canada so you should have no trouble finding parts and they are not very expensive.
 
Claven2 said:
Hmm... not the most scientific method, but I pulled the trigger with a digital fish scale and it was breaking between 8 and 10 pounds. Might be a NY trigger in my glock :(

Will get the local smith to check it, and if needs be, will see if a stock trigger setup can be sourced (?)
Click to expand...

Glocks are hilariously easy to work on so don't be afraid to get in there and do it yourself. I believe this will cure what ails ya. http://www.crafm.com/taran-tactical-glock-grand-master-3-25lb-connector-kit.html
 
So an update. I did have the lighter NY trigger no.1 installed and a standard connector. It's suppose to provide a trigger a bit over 8lbs. There is also heavier NY trigger no.2 that giver 12 lbs.

One of my friends is a certified Glock armorer, which I didn't know he was until today - lol. He had all the parts I might ever need.

The gun tested to a 10lbs pull as I got it. We swapped in a standard trigger spring and that lowered it to just over 6 lbs, which is a little heavier than the spec sheet said it should be. He then swapped in a Glock factory 4.5 lbs connector bar, which has dropped the pull to just under 5 lbs (4lbs, 12 oz). Supposedly these aren't supposed to be sold to customers and ppl go aftermarket to get them, but he used a new Glock brand part. I'm not complaining.

The trigger has gone from groan to sweet. He also changed the slide stop for a new one, as the old one had some wear on it.

I still have the standard weight connector and he told me to put it back in if I find the pull too light during actual shooting.

Much happier with the gun now, I have no idea how anyone can shoot the NY trigger accurately.

I'll post a pic later of all the different Glock trigger springs, I took a pic while he had them all laid out.
 
ok, some pics for y'all:

Here's the pistol I bought.

7WSb4QI.jpg


And here are the various Glock OEM trigger springs, courtesy of a friend of mine who had these Glock parts in stock. Also, the stuff I wrote about them below is info I got from him, I had no clue to any of this before today :)

yk9oMdC.jpg


Starting clockwise in the upper left:

1) The grey plastic assembly is the Glock New York trigger Type 1 (the little 2 on the casting is a mould number, it's not a type 2 trigger). These give a trigger in the 8lbs+ range in a gun that is otherwise a standard glock with the standard connector bar.

2) The orange plastic assembly is the Glock New York trigger Type 2. These give a trigger in the 12lbs+ range in a gun that is otherwise a standard glock with the standard connector bar.

3) The black plastic assembly is an early Glock New York trigger Type 1 that uses a flat leaf spring instead of a coil spring. The grey trigger spring assemblies replaced these and are aparently more reliable. These give a trigger in the 8lbs+ range in a gun that is otherwise a standard glock with the standard connector bar.

4) The coil spring by itself is the standard glock trigger spring and is supposed to give a trigger in the 5.5 lbs range with a standard connector bar.

Hope this helps someone else diagnose their heavy trigger woes :)
 
I could use some more advice, now that I think of it.

I don't currently shoot IDPA or IPSC, but I might want to in the future. I'd like a holster for range use and enough capacity to have 4 mags (one in the gun) on me.

I know I can get an inexpensive Fobus paddle holster with a 1 mag holster add-on and a 2-mag holder paddle for cheap, but am I better off getting a competition holster belt and then adding to it if needed?

The cheap fobus stuff can be bought with a belt clip for the competition belts.

Thoughts?
 
Stay away from Fobus. You are better off with a cheap Uncle Mike's kydex than Fobus IMHO. I prefer Comp Tac or Blade Tech, a new quality holster and mag pouch set will be about $80-90 but there is always some for sale used here on the EE for a lot less.
 
Claven2 said:
Well I got it out today and put 100 rds of 180gn Blaser Brass through it. Some observations:

1) I Had it, a Nagant Revolver and a Chinese military tokarev Type 54 pistol out. I shot the glock the worst of the three.
2) At 15 yards, the front sight is thick enough that it basically covered the whole black bull area of a standard 25m pistol target. The other guns I brought had much finer sights and were easier to aim precisely.
3) The trigger was worse (to me) than a wartime rough-made Nagant revolver in single action. I didn't expect that. I literally shot tighter 25 round groups with both the tokarev and Nagant than I was able to do with the Glock shooting 5 rounds groups.
4) The trigger was ergonomically uncomfortable. I suppose I'll get used to it, but the centrally mounted safety was chafing on my finger a little - I noticed the discomfort AFTER I was done shooting. Like if I'd kept going I might have gotten a blister on the ball of my finger, if that makes sense?

Now that said, it ran really well and the mag changes were faster than any single-stack without a mag well. With practise, I know I could get pretty fast with the Glock.

I will need to check the trigger pull weight on this thing though - I think my poor groups were likely a function of a thick sight blade and heavier trigger than I'm used to. I suspect the gun is a police trade-in so I wonder if I have a heavier duty trigger in it or something?

When I was shooting slow and deliberate, I had probably 10" groups at 15m. If I sped it up, I sometimes wasn't even on paper. The .40 was a bit snappy, but no more so than 7.62x25TT - at least not noticeably so.

I guess like all things, it will come down to practise?
Click to expand...

Police = new york trigger 7.5 lbs
 
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