Boyds m14 stock for m305
- Thread starter 84wh1
- Start date
- Location
- Whitehorse, Yukon
Any of the ones I have replaced were drop ins. Only modification that you have to do is insure that the op rod spring sliding lock pin is retained into the action. Easily done with epoxy and a piece of a popsicle stick.
RC
RC
the boyds receiver bearing profile is set up for m1a and usgi receiver profiles.
this means that where the metal meets the wood on the right hand side under the uprod track.... some material needs to be removed for a "correct" fit.
and the connector lock, or oprod spring guide rod pin, area of stock will need to be filled.
so I'll say no, they are not quite drop in..... but easily enough to do at home. I'm pretty sure all the info is in the stickies...... but I don't have a link for you
this means that where the metal meets the wood on the right hand side under the uprod track.... some material needs to be removed for a "correct" fit.
and the connector lock, or oprod spring guide rod pin, area of stock will need to be filled.
so I'll say no, they are not quite drop in..... but easily enough to do at home. I'm pretty sure all the info is in the stickies...... but I don't have a link for you
Turkinator
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Onterrible
TacticalTeacher
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Georgian Bay, ON
Get a Boyd's stock. You will love the fondle factor! 
All the mods you "might" need to do are very straightforward. Just avoid anybody who volunteers their 9K RPM Dremel tool!
Cheers and keep helping them noobs out there!
Barney
All the mods you "might" need to do are very straightforward. Just avoid anybody who volunteers their 9K RPM Dremel tool!
Cheers and keep helping them noobs out there!
Barney
Save the rivets from the front sling plate, you'll need to re-use them if you can't find replacements. Rear location for the trigger plate needs to be filed down to fit properly. If you do the handguard, too, you'll need to trim a bit where the charging handle hits. Minor stuff, no big deal. But it's a couple hours of work, if you want to do it well.
ChrisAlston
Regular
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
I agree, my Boyd's stock needed a little wood shaved off for a correct fit, mainly between the trigger group and receiver. It all went together, but then I did a function test and yikes, when I fired the action then recycled the action again to test the trigger reset, the hammer would follow the action home, definitely not good haha.
So the question remains, does a Norinco action fit a USGI stock properly? I put my M1A in a Boyds I acquired here a few months back. Nice piece of lumber and having the selector hole filled is a nice touch. Makes it look finished.
any of you guys that have a norinco AND an LRB or M1A or even a 12-3 prohib m14......
take them out and flip the receiver upside down and have a real good look at the differences where the receivers sit on the stock. you'll see that the entire right side of the norinco receiver, under the oprod is machined to fully contact the stock all the way along.
the other receivers have machining detail that removes the rear 1/4 or so of this bearing area.
USGI stocks are made to support the receiver by two forward bearing pads and the very rear most of the heel.
Boyd's stocks need to be profiled, under the oprod , at the rear, in order to match the receiver bearing profile of the Chinese receiver.
it's a simple job needing masking tape, a pencil and a good wood file.
for wood and fiberglass GI stocks, with their raised forward bearing pads, the only mods required are to the connector lock recess.
take them out and flip the receiver upside down and have a real good look at the differences where the receivers sit on the stock. you'll see that the entire right side of the norinco receiver, under the oprod is machined to fully contact the stock all the way along.
the other receivers have machining detail that removes the rear 1/4 or so of this bearing area.
USGI stocks are made to support the receiver by two forward bearing pads and the very rear most of the heel.
Boyd's stocks need to be profiled, under the oprod , at the rear, in order to match the receiver bearing profile of the Chinese receiver.
it's a simple job needing masking tape, a pencil and a good wood file.
for wood and fiberglass GI stocks, with their raised forward bearing pads, the only mods required are to the connector lock recess.
Sporting Lad
Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
I did it both ways...
1) Last year I found an old USGI stock on Heebay. It looked really rough, and I didn't know if it was 'worn out'.
I did a trial fit straight away. "Drop-in"?? Hah! It nearly Fell in! But some range time assured me it'd be a good shooter, so I spent some time and effort to refinish it, and it came out looking pretty good--old and 'experienced', but still good looking.
2) Finally, Boyds had a sale on their M-14 stocks that put them under the import limiting pricetag, so I ordered both stock and handguard. Out of the box, my action dropped right in (Yea!) but when it was closed up tight, it failed the all-important 'safety function test' (Boo!). Of course I went straight to the 'Nutters' forum and conducted a search, which lead me here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/91174-M14-M305-M1A-Test-after-assembly. I found Post #5 particularly informative. You don't want to remove too much wood, so be careful.
I also had to do "the popsickle stick trick". I abandoned the front sling swivel and ordered a new one from "Treeline".
The rest of the stock hardware transferred right over to the Boyds, no problemmo.
Before I put it all back together, I rubbed in two coats of Pure Tung Oil. I will give it a third coat this winter.
2a) THE HANDGUARD: If you want to swap to the Boyds walnut handguard, your problems are not yet over.
I decided to abandon the front ferrule as well, as my Norky plastic piece was in jeopardy of damage were I to attempt separating the two. Instead, I ordered a replacement ferrule from Treeline when I ordered the swivel.
That tapped onto the front of the Boyds handguard more easily than I expected, but be careful here--that wooden
handguard is fragile and liable to split under harsh treatment.
I was able to >pop< to rear clip off the Norky after some fiddling with screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. There is a special tool specific to this purpose, but hardly worth it unless you change out clips frequently.
Before I was able to install the clip to the Boyds handguard, some minor trimming was required around the right-rear corner of the new handguard to allow for the op rod travel.
Also (now be careful here!) the wooden handguard is thicker than the Norky plastic one, and may well break if you slap it down onto the receiver. You don't want that. What you need here is some judicious trimming of the inside/rear of the handguard so that it has just enough clearance to fit over without splitting. Once this is so, you can then install the clip and (gently) smack it into place where it may dwell in peace for all eternity.
That's it--Your new Boyds stock is installed around your rebuilt and fully functioning Norinco 305s/M14.
There are several methods for 'fine finishing' of the Boyds, the first of which is to leave it 'as-is' and say,
"It is finished!"
1) Last year I found an old USGI stock on Heebay. It looked really rough, and I didn't know if it was 'worn out'.
I did a trial fit straight away. "Drop-in"?? Hah! It nearly Fell in! But some range time assured me it'd be a good shooter, so I spent some time and effort to refinish it, and it came out looking pretty good--old and 'experienced', but still good looking.
2) Finally, Boyds had a sale on their M-14 stocks that put them under the import limiting pricetag, so I ordered both stock and handguard. Out of the box, my action dropped right in (Yea!) but when it was closed up tight, it failed the all-important 'safety function test' (Boo!). Of course I went straight to the 'Nutters' forum and conducted a search, which lead me here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/91174-M14-M305-M1A-Test-after-assembly. I found Post #5 particularly informative. You don't want to remove too much wood, so be careful.
I also had to do "the popsickle stick trick". I abandoned the front sling swivel and ordered a new one from "Treeline".
The rest of the stock hardware transferred right over to the Boyds, no problemmo.
Before I put it all back together, I rubbed in two coats of Pure Tung Oil. I will give it a third coat this winter.
2a) THE HANDGUARD: If you want to swap to the Boyds walnut handguard, your problems are not yet over.
I decided to abandon the front ferrule as well, as my Norky plastic piece was in jeopardy of damage were I to attempt separating the two. Instead, I ordered a replacement ferrule from Treeline when I ordered the swivel.
That tapped onto the front of the Boyds handguard more easily than I expected, but be careful here--that wooden
handguard is fragile and liable to split under harsh treatment.
I was able to >pop< to rear clip off the Norky after some fiddling with screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. There is a special tool specific to this purpose, but hardly worth it unless you change out clips frequently.
Before I was able to install the clip to the Boyds handguard, some minor trimming was required around the right-rear corner of the new handguard to allow for the op rod travel.
Also (now be careful here!) the wooden handguard is thicker than the Norky plastic one, and may well break if you slap it down onto the receiver. You don't want that. What you need here is some judicious trimming of the inside/rear of the handguard so that it has just enough clearance to fit over without splitting. Once this is so, you can then install the clip and (gently) smack it into place where it may dwell in peace for all eternity.
That's it--Your new Boyds stock is installed around your rebuilt and fully functioning Norinco 305s/M14.
There are several methods for 'fine finishing' of the Boyds, the first of which is to leave it 'as-is' and say,
"It is finished!"
If you get a Boyds stock and end up ordering a replacement ferrule and front sling swivel from Treeline, it is also worth while considering ordering a GI butt plate, since this is lighter than the all steel Norinco one, since it is partially aluminum and will make the rifle a little lighter.
There is a special tool specific to this purpose, but hardly worth it unless you change out clips frequently.
All you need are two pieces of wire about 12 inches long. Stove pipe wire works well. Tie the wires to the hand-guard clip, one through each hole. Now anchor wire one to something secure. (I usually wrap the wire around a nail held in a vice.) Wrap wire two around a small wooden dowel. As you pull on the dowel the clip will open up and you can rotate hand-guard out from the clip. Use the reverse sequence to install the clip on new hand guard. (When finished untie the wire ends attached to the clip.) Very simple and works very well. You are in no danger of scratching or damaging the hand-guard. The metal retaining clip is not symmetrical. Make sure it is oriented properly prior to install.
Good luck
All you need are two pieces of wire about 12 inches long. Stove pipe wire works well. Tie the wires to the hand-guard clip, one through each hole. Now anchor wire one to something secure. (I usually wrap the wire around a nail held in a vice.) Wrap wire two around a small wooden dowel. As you pull on the dowel the clip will open up and you can rotate hand-guard out from the clip. Use the reverse sequence to install the clip on new hand guard. (When finished untie the wire ends attached to the clip.) Very simple and works very well. You are in no danger of scratching or damaging the hand-guard. The metal retaining clip is not symmetrical. Make sure it is oriented properly prior to install.
Good luck
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