- Location
- Daysland AB
Is there a dealer for boyds in Canada, preferably western Canada?
Boyds Stocks
- Thread starter Hank Hunter
- Start date
Alberta Tactical "used" to be. Rick seems pretty peed off at them. Bottom line is "I don't think so". I've ordered from Boyd's directly, why wouldn't you go direct? it's not illegal as it comes as an unfinished wood product, not a rifle part.
gitrdun said:
Ditto on this. Boyds seem to be good to deal with and make sure they get all the details when talking about an order. There's a 60 day wait for most orders, and I'm half way through that now, so can't comment on the final results.
However on my first contact they simply gave me a list of Canadian dealers. I called a couple and got the same answer; "Sixty day wait minimum after we place the order, nothing in stock". At least by dealing direct I know the order was placed immediately and the stock will come directly to me.
The issues I've had with boyd's include, but are not limited to:
-VERY plain wood, often with big swaths of sapwood in their semi-inletted blanks.
-Inletting VERY loose. Hope you like bedding compund.
-Action holes off-center. Again, hope you like bedding compound.
-Stocks are all kiln dried, not properly aged. As a result, if you fit the buttplate before you oil the wood, the wood will swell out past the edge of the buttplate. You're best off to oil the wood and let it set a few weeks before doing the buttplate fit work.
-their customer service is sub-par.
Sadly, for many stocks, they are the only consumer-level alternative
I miss Fajen.
-VERY plain wood, often with big swaths of sapwood in their semi-inletted blanks.
-Inletting VERY loose. Hope you like bedding compund.
-Action holes off-center. Again, hope you like bedding compound.
-Stocks are all kiln dried, not properly aged. As a result, if you fit the buttplate before you oil the wood, the wood will swell out past the edge of the buttplate. You're best off to oil the wood and let it set a few weeks before doing the buttplate fit work.
-their customer service is sub-par.
Sadly, for many stocks, they are the only consumer-level alternative
I miss Fajen.
Congratulations! You've ruined my day, and probably much of the next month while I wait for delivery. I guess it's time to stock up on Acraglass....or maybe just buy a gallon of epoxy and filler.
Anyway, thanks for the "oil first, fit last" tip. That will be done.
I guess it's time to stock up on Acraglass....or maybe just buy a gallon of epoxy and filler.Anyway, thanks for the "oil first, fit last" tip. That will be done.
OK,
to clarify - by oil I am NOT talking about the finish!!! When you finish a commercial stock (ie, not a military M1917 stock) you have to wet sand the wood with linseed oil to fill the wood pores PRIOR to applying the FINISH.
For a commercial rifle finish, these days it's hard to beat Tru-Oil. Or if a more matte finish is desired, one of the polymerized tung oils is a good choice, but if you go with polymerized tung oil (like the circa 1878), you should give the stock a spit-shine of clear shellac over the pore-filler oil before applying the tung. Polymerized tung oil doesn't penetrate the wood - it hardens on the surface like varnish and if you don;t apply a shellac barrier, it will be more likely to flake off the oiled stock wood.
If you use pure tung oil (circa 1878 is NOT pure tung oil) then no shellac barrier is needed.
to clarify - by oil I am NOT talking about the finish!!! When you finish a commercial stock (ie, not a military M1917 stock) you have to wet sand the wood with linseed oil to fill the wood pores PRIOR to applying the FINISH.
For a commercial rifle finish, these days it's hard to beat Tru-Oil. Or if a more matte finish is desired, one of the polymerized tung oils is a good choice, but if you go with polymerized tung oil (like the circa 1878), you should give the stock a spit-shine of clear shellac over the pore-filler oil before applying the tung. Polymerized tung oil doesn't penetrate the wood - it hardens on the surface like varnish and if you don;t apply a shellac barrier, it will be more likely to flake off the oiled stock wood.
If you use pure tung oil (circa 1878 is NOT pure tung oil) then no shellac barrier is needed.
Maybe I've just been lucky, but I find Circa 1850 penetrates new wood to the extent that at least 4 coats are needed before any gloss starts to appear. A light sanding with 320 or 400 grit wet & dry after the 3rd coat provides a nice base for the rest.
I have never...repeat never...had any trace of this finish peeling or flaking, nor of a stock finished inside and out warping from moisture penetration.
If Tru Oil is a good penetrating finish they've changed the formula in the last few years. I still have a bottle and find it a "quick and dirty" fix for small projects like handgun grips or spot repairs to a previously varnished stock, and when one wants a fast, easy to apply high gloss finish.
penetrates new wood to the extent that at least 4 coats are needed before any gloss starts to appear. A light sanding with 320 or 400 grit wet & dry after the 3rd coat provides a nice base for the rest.I have never...repeat never...had any trace of this finish peeling or flaking, nor of a stock finished inside and out warping from moisture penetration.
If Tru Oil is a good penetrating finish they've changed the formula in the last few years. I still have a bottle and find it a "quick and dirty" fix for small projects like handgun grips or spot repairs to a previously varnished stock, and when one wants a fast, easy to apply high gloss finish.
agoetz2005
New member
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
I've never had a problem with boyds. My last stock was an Ace Varminter for a 98 mauser that was actually too tight, I had to relieve a small portion of inletting, but the outside finish was spectacular. I started finish sanding at 150 grit instead of the usual 60 or 80 grit.
