Brake on a .308 bolt?

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Brianma65

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I'm in the process of building a .308 rifle . I'll use it for target shooting to 500 yards (maybe).. It's a bolt action , so what are the benefits of a brake? I'm not in that much of a hurry to get back on target , even if a brake allows this. Recoil is non existent in .308 so what's the point? I was thinking. , throw a thread protector on it and calling it a day. I see a lot of threads on what Brake to get for .308 and wonder why. Semi auto, maybe, but a bolt?
 
I run a Cadex brake, But after looking at this I think I will get a APA


308-Muzzle-Brake.png
 
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Yes , but what I'm trying to say is , is there that much recoil that you even need a Brake on .308 ? I could shoot a 100 rnds out of my rem 700 and not notice anything , other than than the slight jump between shots. It moved enough that I had to adjust for target alignment after every shot. But would the Brake iliminate that? I can see the benefits of a brake on a Semi .308 or a even a .308 Bolt , where you need to shoot fast. But on a bolt where your just target shooting? 44% amounts to not much.
 
Incidentally, if you want to do a first class job of threading the muzzle and installing a brake, set up the barrel on the lathe indicating it on the bore. Cut the threads to fit the brake, then turn the brake on, and bore it to proper size. This way, the barrel and brake will be truly co-axial, and the brake's bore will be the correct size.
 
tiriaq said:
Incidentally, if you want to do a first class job of threading the muzzle and installing a brake, set up the barrel on the lathe indicating it on the bore. Cut the threads to fit the brake, then turn the brake on, and bore it to proper size. This way, the barrel and brake will be truly co-axial, and the brake's bore will be the correct size.
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That's way over my head ( lol) the best I can do is send it to someone who knows what they're doing. I'll have it threaded and ready for a brake, ( may as well as I'm this far in ) Just trying to figure the Benifit of a $300 brake on a .308.
 
$300 for a brake? That seems pretty stiff.
.308 is a good round. Shot it in competition for years. Then I set up a rifle in .260, haven't used the .308 since. At longer ranges, the difference in wind drift is significant.
 
tiriaq said:
With a brake you will be able to see the splash, and often the swirl of the bullet.
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This^

I can shoot a ton of 7mm magnum, does not bother me. It does kick up every time and I can't spot my shots or see the impact. With a brake on the .308 it does not move and I can correct the next shot quickly if need be.
 
K0na_stinky said:
:weird:

A better question may be, is it worth building a rifle in 308?


IMO I would put a brake on it.
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If I could start over , I would probably go 6.5 . But as I already have the barrel and Cadex chassis for the rem SA .308 , I have no other choice but to see it through. I'll only use it for a target rifle anyway.
 
Brianma65 said:
If I could start over , I would probably go 6.5 . But as I already have the barrel and Cadex chassis for the rem SA .308 , I have no other choice but to see it through. I'll only use it for a target rifle anyway.
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The swirl and the splash is one of the funnest parts!!! I don't see it often when I'm the shooter, but I see it through the spotting scope when others wailing away. The swirl on the .308 is more noticeable on the .308 than the straighter shooting 6.5's - looks more a lob shot than a laser.

On a 10 or 12lb rifle, brake not needed. On a 6.5lb hunting rifle, I put one on, and I'm glad I did.

-J.
 
I think my rifle should come in at 8 or 9 lbs. I'll get one and see what the diff is. I would like to find one that dosnt sound like a cannon though.
 
That's s pretty light gun, that's t3 lite range. 100 rounds at the range and you'll know it's there.

You said just for target shooting, right??
 
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