Brake timing

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brybenn

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I have a threaded muzzle. A brake that needs timing. A jam nut and a crush washer.
The instructions say use a wrench for each the brake and the jam nut however it shows a photo of the brake and just a crush washer.
What is the correct way to time the brake? Should i use the brake or the jam nut to time the brake?
 
I was surprised how much a crush washer will crush... but I prefer to index the brake fairly close...
 
"Brake timing" makes this sound so crucial and complicated, when really all it is, is alignment.

I always just use a crush washer. If u got a good shoulder on the barrel material for it to butt up against, and lots of thread on thread contact, you could probably eek out most of a rotation using a crush washer. While doing so, like tapping a thread, I always turn a 1/4, then back off, then turn another 1/4 ..... till the brake is aligned.
 
I ordered an Accu Washer kit from Precision Armament a while back. They can be had from Brownell's or CTCS. All the washers have a different a thickness and you should be able to do several rifles with the kit. The odds of 2 rifles requiring the same thickness washer are slim.
 
A crush washer can definitely accommodate 90° of brake rotation from hand tight, if that's what you're after?

With a jam nut, nothing shoulders on the barrel- the nut and the brake are essentially floating, and you just tighten them together wherever you need to (Obviously the closer to the barrel shoulder the better).

Either should work. You just can't go backwards with a crush washer, so creep up on it slow.
 
Snug it up to where you like it and use RED LOCTITE. It's easy to remove with a bit of heat from a butane torch, without doing any damage and it doesn't create any stresses.

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I ordered 2 crush washers in case. I have lots of shoulder on the barrel. I think now i have a better understanding of the jam nut. I didnt realize it was to tighten back against the brake. Im not likely that look it as it leaves a paper thin gap. I just wanted to know if i could skip it or if i was suppose to use the jam nut and crush washer together.
Once the washer flattens out it should match the barrel diameter pretty close then the brake sits flush the look is alot better.
I just didnt know how much the crush washer will flatten without adding tension to the muzzle
 
hint, hint... reread the last words on bearhunter's post..... Crush washers do exactly what they were designed to do... as will a jam nut.

The goals is not to impart any stress on the muzzle/threaded stubb when that brake is installed... yet hold it all in place securely and in alignment.

IMG_1042.jpg

how I choose to install this brake on my rifle.

Jerry
 

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Indexed properly and a drop of blue Loctite will impart the least stress and hold it all in place securely and in alignment.

A jam nut is next in line and a crush washer at the bottom of the list.

And they all seem to work...
 
To update. I didnt like the look of the gap if i were to just level it and lock tight it in place. The jam nut look was even worse so i took a bolt and washers and crushed a crush washer to size thru trial and error to space perfect with a level brake. The brake comes just snug on level and actually requires quite a bit of force to move. Even though its greatly oversized the first 3 shots cloverleafed so it doesnt effect accuracy. The cross hairs only slightly move. 53gr vmax over 24 to 27 grs varget. I videoed 3 shots and can see a large volume of gas directed back and only slight muzzle movement. Considering i had a bipod ontop of a caldwell bag i was impressed.
Thanks for all the replys and suggestions thru out this thread. Its been a fun learning experience
 
Good lord. DO NOT use any thread locker. Ever. Tighten it to the proper specs using the right equipment and you'll be fine. Locktite, Rockset and others have no place on a firearm.
 
On some of mine I turned a tiny, calculated amount off the brake so that it will index correctly direct against the barrel.

Example: if the brake needs to go another 1/4 turn on a 28 pitch thread, turn off .009 from the back of the brake. 1 / 28 = .0357, .0357 x .25 = .009"
 
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