Brand New S&W TRR8 need some advice

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CHeMO80

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Hello need some advice/help with my new TRR8. I attached the bottom rail and tightened down the screws and noticed that the rail has quite a bit of movement. I was

wondering if anyone else with a TRR8 is experiencing the same issue. I believe the reason behind this is that screws supplied with the rail are a little too long which

prevents them from snugging down the rail as they are bottoming out on something. If the holes are not tapped all the way through then the screws are bottoming out if

the holes are tapped all the way through then the screws are contacting the barrel assembly. I haven't taken the rail off yet after noticing this issue to investigate

whether the holes are tapped all the way through or not. Will check when I get home tonight.

I guess the easy solution would be to shorten the length of the screws by taking them to grinder? I don't feel this should be required however and am wondering if I am

doing something wrong like not installing a washer or something or if this is something that is specific to my firearm.

IMG_1425ab.jpg
 
Holy Funky Chicken.... I Knew I was probably doing something wrong I just ASSumed all seven screws were the same. Thanks for the help man I will take a look at that when I get home today.
 
Remove the rail and insert the screws by themselves. How they feel as they bottom out will tell you if the screws are hitting bottom or if the threading doesn't go all the way in.

If the screws stop "hard" with only a fraction of a turn between free turning and snug (do NOT over tighten them. Just a very light pinch for this testing) then they are hitting bottom and are simply too long. If this is the case you need to file the ends down a little.

If the threads on the end have a polished look when you remove them on the last few crests of the first couple of turns of the threading and if the screws seem to have a "soft" bottoming feel where they snug up over a full turn or more than it's likely that only the intermediate tap was run down the holes and a bottoming tap was never used. If so then you'll want to get this threading completed by someone with a proper bottoming tap. Or if you are a bit handy you could easily do it yourself if you can get the tap.

Screws these days all have what is called rolled threads. This cold pressure forming tends to turn up an often nasty burr on the end of the screws. It might well be that you only need to file off that last little bit to make this all work out.

Instead of trying to hold these small screws to a grinding wheel I'd suggest you drill a hole for the screw in a bit of scrap material of some form like sheet metal or even thin wood. Insert the screw and with the threaded end sticking up through the hole just run a metal file over the end of the screw to remove the burr and then try again. If it still doesn't bind the rail correctly then remove another turn to turn and a half worth of thread with the file. Using a file like this will provide you with far more control over how much metal you remove than using a grinder. But if you insist on using the grinder still make up the screw holder from some scrap sheet metal. It will greatly reduce the likelyhood of having the screw be snatched from between your fingers or from marking up the head by using pliers to hold it.
 
Thank you for the advice BCRider. The screws don't stop hard. I will have to take a look at the screws when I get home. The revolver has a lifetime warranty I think so if the issue is, as you metntioned, that soemone did not run the bottoming tap through the hole I will probably send it back to S&W even though that could take months. I'd be a little disapointed if that was the case as I thought I was paying a premium to ensure that all the T's were crossed and the I's dotted on this firearm.

Thats some good advice on grinding the screws also.

Much appreciated.
 
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