Brass .410 hulls

it appears you annealed the case mouth only
get the whole case to a faint glow

Ganderite said:
I tried making them with 303 brass. It took 2 shots each, with annealing, to get a wretched case.
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I've reloaded 410 with brass cases for a friend, made from 303 and they work fine. The only reason I don't do it myself is that I have 1200-1500 good 3" winchester hulls that my MEC press is set up for. I get 10-15 loads out of each hull before they split, crack, blow out the crimps, or expand too much on the inside.

I have a bunch of 303 brass but whats the point? and I would rather not waist my primers right now.
 
saskgunowner101 said:
Thanks for reminding me about 444 cases, might have to put a feeler out in the local area to barter up a handful of them.

If you're truly bored or creative, you can use 308 brass for mini 2" cases. Of course, you need to get that whole "don't got a rim here" problem figured out;););). That's the guy ladies want in the apocalypse.:d
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use 30-06 cases for rimless 410.
 
This thread has intrigued me! To that end, I bought a 410 shotgun. Never had any use for one as I always thought them too big for mice and too small for rats!!! Many years ago, I took a shot at a bird, maybe 15-18 yds out. The feathers flew in all directions, the bird shook himself and took off never to be seen again!
So, I have brass: .303BR, 30-40 Krag and 9-3X74R I prepped 5 cases (9.3) by expanding the necks to 40 cal using a special mandrel that we made to open up .303BR & 30-40Krag to 40-60 Maynard. I want to use 1/2 oz to 5/8 oz of #71/2 shot. Not sure about a powder charge? I have Unique, 296, 2400, 4227 & Green Dot on hand.
I plan to load thusly: powder charge, .020" cardboard wad, 5/8 oz shot and finally a .40 cal veggie wad to close the shell up. If I have room, I will use a foam buffer between the powder & shot.
What I need now is a suggested powder and charge from what I have on hand.

The redneck ( his word!) on youtube formed his 9.3 brass with 231 using a 1.3cc scoop. He set his powder measure to drop the equivalent of 1.3cc's. He then charged the cases with a DOUBLE charge, so, 2.6cc. He then pushed in a foam earplug and fireformed his brass. When he loaded shot, he used only a single charge of 1.3cc's of231, approx. 11 grs.
I have a 2.2 cc scoop and that gave 25 grs of 231. I'm not comfortable using that much powder.
Looking for advice and suggestions!
 
legi0n said:
my own load development with A2400
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Are you sure you put 1oz of shot in a 303/410 hull that had that much powder and wad column?

FWIW I've only had luck with whole case annealing as well. For the rim I had better luck filing / turning a bevel on the upper part of the rim to match factory 410 rim but I find it can mess with priming using normal shell-holders.
 
Yes, I have a hundred PRVI case like that too but rarely ventured too far past the 3/4oz line so couldn't visualize how much space there is. I always figured if the brass was designed for 50k psi then flirting with 15k would probably not be the end of the world (assuming action can handle it) but never bothered to pattern the 7/8 loads I tried given the 20 or 12 has that covered well enough.
 
kjohn said:
I have some .444 Marlin cases loaded,but haven’t fired them yet. I intend to shoot them out of one of my Lee Enfield “musket” single shots. I also have a box of .410 brass that I haven’t used.
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Here's a target shot today, Dec 18, 2022. Indoors at 50 ft. 5 rounds, 2 .395 balls each shot, Universal Clays powder, 444 Marlin cases. Kind of hard to count,as the balls rip a good hole. Next time, I'll use some better target material. I also had some plastic Federal that I had loaded, but forgot to bring any o-rings to bring the primer back a bit closer to the bolt, so they didn't fire. :mad:

They all seemed to stay in the centre fairly well. I don't think I would want to be the target. Shot with an Ishapore No. 1 Mk III single shot, rechambered for 3" shells.

Target 410 a x.jpg
 

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I made some of these last week and fired them. I made 5 with .303 brass and 5 with 9.3 X 74R cases. Loading protocol was: 14 grs 2400, over powder card (.020" milk carton) 5/8 oz of shot and a veggie wad to seal everything. I used a .41 Mag seating die to make a small roll crimp to keep the veggie wad in place in lieu of gluing! In the 9.3 cases, I used a foam plug to take up some room. They all worked fine! I should mention that I didn't fireform the cases. Instead I used a specially made mandrel to open the necks to .40 cal. No lost or mis-formed cases!
 
Little update on my reloading of 444 Marlin cases to shoot in the old Lee Enfield:

The gun has been rechambered for 3" .410 ammo.

I use Large Pistol Primers.

7.2 grains of Universal Clays.

2 of .125 Maxi Nitro Cards 430ga #C430 Ballistic Products

1 of Fiber Cushion Wad 1/2" .410ga #FC41 Ballistic Products

Two .395 balls of WW cast with Lee mold

Possibly one or two Overshot Cards .410 bore #OS41 (May or may not require any, this is to bring the top wad to level w/ case mouth)

1 of .125 card.

Crimp with Lyman 30-06 DA seating die.

This may or may not work for you. I am not recommending it for use.
 
Many, many helpful tips here!
I ended up calling Rayn'er Shine Gunworks and he told me he has a flat of 410 Magtech brass hulls, so I bought 2 box's. Total was $105 shipped.
Next was to pick up a 410. I looked at the Cooey's but they done got expensive! I ended up on the Cabellas site mid December and the Charles Daly, made by Chippia were on sale for $125.99. I couldn't decide on which one to get, the 14 inch barreled or the 26 inch barreled, so I bought 1 of each. Total was around $330.00 shipped.
So I'm in for around $450. Not a bad start.
The 410's showed up and I have to say, I'm impressed! No ejectors but they are made of steel, not pot metal. Receiver, barrel and barrel shroud are all steel. A bit of oil here and there and a bit of working in and they loosened right up.

And now for the big reveal. They both have removable choke tubes! On bargain basement single shots! Now to figure if I need different choke tubes and where to find them.
 
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