Brass cases vs. silver? PROBLEMS...

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cath8r

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I am down to one .17 Rem.
I am getting started reloading and before I f'ed up my die, I got a few reloads out. They are silver cases. They get stuck in my rifle when I close the bolt.(I didn't shoot them, a little freaked out)
I shot factory loads and they shoot fine.
I cycled brass empties and they cycle fine.
I cycle silver empties and they get stuck.
The silvers are harder to close and get stuck when trying to cycle.

Is this common? I have read where people refuse to use the silvers cases for reloading. Is this why?

I haven't shot a reloaded .17 Rem yet. This is a 700 LVSF.
Thoughts?
 
i cant answer your questions but i do have a Rem 700 in .308 that will close ok on nickel plated, but ejecting them is a little(sometimes a lot) tougher than normal factory brass
 
It sounds like the die is not resizing them properly to me, I had a couple .308s do this to me, I adjusted my die, never had the problem again. Did you check your brass(or whatever it is made of) with a caliper for all of the correct dimensions(neck, shoulder, oal, etc?
 
When I get my decapping pin from Hornady, I'll size some brass cases and see if dimensions come out OK.
How could a sizing die be 'out'?
 
The die is likely not out, but you may not be pushing the case deep enough into the die.

Set up you full length sizing die to touch the shell holder when the ram is up, then give it another turn down. The shell holder should hit the bottom of the die before the press is out of travel. Try sizing 1 casing like this and see if it fits in your rifle. You do not need the decaping pin to try this.

Another question are you using a neck sizing die or a FL die?
 
Longbomber could be correct...or you may be ramming too much while sizing, this would be touchy with the small .17rem....look closely at the neck and the chamfer below, have you mushroomed it?

My .243 cycled both brass and silver reloads the exact same.

Is it very hard to close the bolt?
 
No Problems

I've had no problems with nickel plated brass in my 270 Win, 7mm Rem Mag, 308 Win, 300 Win Mag or 338 Win Mag. All were first full length resized and then after that just neck sized until they start to get tight closing the bolt. After that it'll be time for another full length resize.

I can just assume that the die is not setup correctly in your press, maybe your full length sizer is setup for neck sizing only?
 
I didn't hear it first hand but a reputable gunsmith said when reloading with nickel cases that the powder charges had to be reduced @10% because of pressure signs. Supposedly this was because the cases didn't grip the chamber wall as well as conventional brass cases. Not sure if it was due to the nickel being less grippy than the brass or not expanding as much. It is just Nickel plated brass I believe.
 
First thing I'd check is the sizing dies is going down far enough.
Second thing I'd check is that, when bullet seating, the dies is not going too far and bulging the case, when crimping with the seating die.
I had to sort this out with my semi-auto.
 
I prefer to avoid nickeled cases as it adds just one more variable. The nickeled cases tend to be springier, and often I've seen guys complain that they have loose bullets with nickeled cases unless they choose a smaller expander button. There was an internet rumor floating around for a while that nicked cases would produce scratches and faster wear on a resizing die, but I don't know if this has ever been substantiated. It does take more effort to resize a nickeled case than a brass case though, and anyone who has attempted to load nickeled cases with a progressive press will attest to the fact that it is easier to work with standard brass.
 
Alright, so I'm still waiting for a new decapping and necksizing pin from Hornady from my last misadventure.
Now I'm working on this current problem. I added a 1/4 turn to the sizing die. I was able now to size the silver and the brass so it would cycle through the rifle easily, but, I started to get those hydraulic dents on the shoulder. I reduced the amount of lube and promptly got another case stuck.
Now I gotta fix that, again.
Thanks for the help so far. I'm not feeling overly confident that reloading is my thing, but not quitting yet!
I'll keep you all posted.
 
cath8r said:
Alright, so I'm still waiting for a new decapping and necksizing pin from Hornady from my last misadventure.
Now I'm working on this current problem. I added a 1/4 turn to the sizing die. I was able now to size the silver and the brass so it would cycle through the rifle easily, but, I started to get those hydraulic dents on the shoulder. I reduced the amount of lube and promptly got another case stuck.
Now I gotta fix that, again.
Thanks for the help so far. I'm not feeling overly confident that reloading is my thing, but not quitting yet!
I'll keep you all posted.
Click to expand...


If you are getting getting grease dimples, clean the die, and get some Imperial sizing wax. Apply a very small amount around the circumference of the case just below the shoulder. The first time you resize a case with it, advance the case slowly into the die, then back it out and advance it again several times to ensure the inside of the die is coated with the lube. Some dry neck lube will allow easier passage of the expander ball through the neck, and just dipping the case mouth into the stuff is all you need to do. Don't give up, once you get some good results you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.
 
I'm using the RCBS lube that comes with the RockChucker master reloading kit from RCBS.

You know, I used to reload for one of my old .22-250's maybe 10 years ago. Lee Turrett press and Lee dies. The old man at the gunshop basically told me what to do and wrote down a 'universally accurate load for the .22-250'. Bought everyting at the same time. I went home did what he said right away before I forgot and started peening off 1/2" groups with my Tikka 595. 55gr. VMax and 34.6gr (I think) of IMR 4064 and just sized, primed and loaded her up. Bing bang boom. Reloading is easy, I'm the greatest..... yeah right!
Thanks guys. I'll keep you updated.
 
The best method I found for using the RCBS lube was to put just a drop or two on the lube pad, and rub it in well with your finger. Then starting with a clean die, roll a single piece of brass back and forth on the pad 6-10 times with moderate pressure. When you've just lubed the pad, 6 passes on the pad is enough for the first couple of cases, and not so much that it causes grease dents in the shoulder. I'd usually add another drop when I had to exceed 10 passes on the pad and the brass still was sticky going into the die. With practice you'll be able to tell when the pad needs another drop of lube. When you feel resistance to the brass going into the resizer, back it out, and add more lube. When you make your first pass after adding lube, work the press handle up and down, advancing the brass into the die a little further each time until you are able to make the full stroke. Minimizing the amount of lube you use means that you only have to wipe the case clean with a rag and then go onto the next step.

I've made the complete switch to Imperial Sizing Wax. This stuff is easier to use because there is no lube pad required a each case gets the same amount of lube, so there is never a risk of sticking a case in the die.
 
Alright, Zip spindle arrived today and I'm rolling.
Switched to Imperial sizing wax and graphite for the neck. Rattled off 64 once fired brass (threw the silver in the trash) and no stuck cases, no dimples and they cycle through the rifle perfect. Tomorrow I'm gonna prime and likely start some load experiments.
Varget and 25 gr. Berger HP Match bullets, federal small primers.
Wish me luck!
PS: bought a box of factory for a retardedly high price and tried getting a 200 yard zero. Good times in todays wind............ not! In 12 shots I'm pretty close and won't miss any broadside 'yotes, but want to get her better dialed in..
 
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