Brazilian Mauser shroud thread - home made heat sink for welding

D

danyboy

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I could use a hand here with some info on Mauser bolts. I will have to weld a bolt handle on my Brazilian M954 Mauser. Brownells sells a Mauser 98 heat sink for bolt welding but before ordering one, since they won't tell me, I'd like to make sure thr shread tread size is the same as for a M954 Brazilian Mauser that, apparently, was made out of a Mauser 1908 model according to web info on this model.
So, do Mauser 98 and M954 Brazilian Mauser have same shroud thread size ?
Dan
 
I have the Brownell's #3 Bolt Body Heat Sink (#080-638-003 24.99). It properly screwed into two Brazil 1908 Mausers bolts that I re-did the handles on. Fits every other M98 bolt that I have tried it in. I would strongly suggest to also get the Heat Stop (Heat Control Paste #083-012-100 16.99) at the same time. Just because, I also picked up the Mauser 98 Bolt Shroud Tap (#080-598-513 93.99) but turned out I really didn't need to use it. It is nice to buy or make the Bolt Welding Jig (#080-016-000 45.99) to get handle correctly aligned before welding, and the Bolt Forging Blocks (080-928-000 69.99) to hold the assembly once the handle is tacked on. After I was done, I've been moving around that $US 250 of stuff waiting for when I might want to do another one...
 
I’ve got the heat sink, forging blocks and a couple cans of Heat Control paste. An absolute must for any work on the bolts, whether forging or welding.
 
gunrunner100 said:
I’ve got the heat sink, forging blocks and a couple cans of Heat Control paste. An absolute must for any work on the bolts, whether forging or welding.
Click to expand...

Exception to the rule-
Depends on your welding process.

A purged TIG weld will only yield approximately 150 degrees F into the bolt body.

Note-
Remove any coating on your filler wire,or color will not match.
 
Turned out real good. Only used wet shop wrap inside bolt body and all the way around. Tig welded. Never more then 3 seconds. Could always touch bolt with barehand, never got hot. Solid weld, will never come apart. Ground on the bolt knob. Heat goes up so made sure cam lug was never higher than the weld even if wrapped with wet wrag. Don’t need no heat sink when careful.
 
Back in the days when oxy/acetylene was your option for welding 98 bolts it did not matter if the back of the bolt turned red... you just wanted to keep the front of the bolt unaffected... and after filing and polishing the rear of the bolt, re heat treating the safety notch and the cocking ramp was done. That procedure still works. A 'heat sink' is a must for forging so the interior does not warp.
 
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