BRNO 22F rifle & meopta scope advice needed

[Longwalker]

Hello all, I was following CGN discussions about these rifles for some time and developed an interest in them. I then saw an excellent condition 22F (short barrel, full stock) 7x57 that came up for sale on the Tradeex site and I bought it. I think you can see the picture posted there still. I have a few questions for the members experienced with these rifles...

Is the double set trigger adjustable? mine is very stiff, goes over 10 lbs unset, and when set, the mechanism will only fire it 2/3 of the time. I'd like to adjust the front trigger to no more than 6 lbs unset, or replace with a good after-market single trigger. I looked for after-market triggers but could find no listing for this model in Timney's or anywhere else.

Anyone know how to adjust the ocular lens of an old Meopta 3x scope? the reticle in mine is out of focus. There are reference marks ( dots) on the bell of the scope and on the main body. there are two set screws, one on either side of the main tube. I loosened the screws and tried to rotate the ocular bell both ways, but it won't budge. I tried pentrating oil. Is it just seized? Any advice?

The floorplate it checkered at the front and there is a button near the trigger guard. the floorplate does not apppear to hinge. Is it removable, and how?
I shot the rifle for the first time yesterday. It shoots right to point of aim at 100yd with the iron sights and is accurate with Federal 175 gr. RN. It did not like the Federal 140 gr PSP at all, iron sight groups opened from under 2" to about 6". So I know what I'll feed it anyway!

Your advice/comments appreciated!

 

[Noel]

Long walker the best aftermarket trigger for this slim rifle IMO is the Dayton.

It requires the minimum amount of wood remover from the stock. They can be set from 2 1/2lbs up to 8 I believe.

The floorplate button has to be pushed while the plate is slid backwards. They are stiff buggers to operate, I don't even bother removing mine.

My 7x57 does not throw 140 or 145gr well either, generally 1 3/4" groups.
The 154gr really does well over H414. Haven't tried any other weights for group yet.

The rest I cannot help you much.

Congrats on the purchase, there aren't many short barreled 22F's around.
Take good care of her and don't point it anything you don't want to knock over! LOL

Hope this helps.

Noel

 

[Noel]

Double tap, anyone???????

 

[huntersdad]

Hey
Congrats on the purchase. I too noticed my 22F likes the heavier grains bullets mostly 160gr Partitions. My floor plate is very stiff also so I dont bother using it at all. Since I aquired mine I have really changed what I thought was a nice rifle. These rifles point and handle very well for sure. I will definately be aquiring more Brno rifles in the future. I need a 8mm and a 9.3mm to make me happier. HD

 

[J Stuart]

Hello all, I was following CGN discussions about these rifles for some time and developed an interest in them. I then saw an excellent condition 22F (short barrel, full stock) 7x57 that came up for sale on the Tradeex site and I bought it. I think you can see the picture posted there still. I have a few questions for the members experienced with these rifles...

Is the double set trigger adjustable? mine is very stiff, goes over 10 lbs unset, and when set, the mechanism will only fire it 2/3 of the time. I'd like to adjust the front trigger to no more than 6 lbs unset, or replace with a good after-market single trigger. I looked for after-market triggers but could find no listing for this model in Timney's or anywhere else.

Anyone know how to adjust the ocular lens of an old Meopta 3x scope? the reticle in mine is out of focus. There are reference marks ( dots) on the bell of the scope and on the main body. there are two set screws, one on either side of the main tube. I loosened the screws and tried to rotate the ocular bell both ways, but it won't budge. I tried pentrating oil. Is it just seized? Any advice?

The floorplate it checkered at the front and there is a button near the trigger guard. the floorplate does not apppear to hinge. Is it removable, and how?
I shot the rifle for the first time yesterday. It shoots right to point of aim at 100yd with the iron sights and is accurate with Federal 175 gr. RN. It did not like the Federal 140 gr PSP at all, iron sight groups opened from under 2" to about 6". So I know what I'll feed it anyway!

Your advice/comments appreciated!

Longwalker, BEFORE you do anything to that rifle please post a variety of pictures, as to your question, yes the trigger is adjustable, after a fashion.
Regardless of what you do the trigger will not provide a truly consistent let-off unless you replace the small(thick) flat spring and the BEST way to go about replacing this spring is to make one up out of two leaves of a set of feeler gauges, these are made (using a Dremel, and a lot of patience)the same size as the original then stacked together to produce a sheaved spring, the tension can be adjusted by varying the thickness of the sheaved springs(generally both will end up being about .010" each).
Should you be lucky enough to have the original skeletonized mount bases then just throw the scope in a cupboard and mount a Pecar or similar modern scope on the base.(for details on how this is done please refer to the posts in the 7x57 Brno post by horseman2 in this forum)
As to the floor-plate, it is removed by pushing the checkered button(using considerable pressure), whilst maintaining pressure on the button push the checkered section of the floor-plate toward the rear of the rifle, when you have removed the floor-plate commence GENTLY polishing the contact surfaces of the button latch and the front hook on the floor-plate, then lightly lubricate, this will facilitate future easy removal of the floor-plate.
After you have decided if you are going to use the rifle seriously then I suggest that you contact a truly gifted gunsmith(mediocre is NOT good enough) and have the bolt handle on your pride and joy modified(do not let anyone talk you into exchanging the bolt or bolt handle, modify your original).
And please post some pictures !
Regards, J Stuart.

Ps, I have got my rifle down to 1" at 100 yds with 150 Gr Remington core-lokts, however it was a cow of a job, the problem was the dies, all three sets of them, I ended up having to modify those as well, now I consistently achieve .0015" run out on my loaded rounds and .001" run out on my sized cases(these measurements are measured using a Sinclair run out gauge and a Mitutoyo dial mike).

Pps; The trigger will be stiff and inconsistent due to old congealed oil(generally), the set trigger should already be releasing under 2 Lbs, I would most certainly recommend stripping and thoroughly cleaning EVERYTHING !

 

[Longwalker]

Thanks for the replies, especially to J Stuart.
here's some pics...

I tried sliding the floorplate to the rear as instructed, it must be gummed up, couldn't budge it!
The scope mount is the skeleton type, so I understand that I have options for mounting a new scope.
Time now for a good clean up and expert asessment, this should be fun!

 

[J Stuart]

Thanks for the replies, especially to J Stuart.
here's some pics...

I tried sliding the floorplate to the rear as instructed, it must be gummed up, couldn't budge it!
The scope mount is the skeleton type, so I understand that I have options for mounting a new scope.
Time now for a good clean up and expert asessment, this should be fun!

Longwalker, some of the Model 21/22's have a button that is a tad too short, you may have to use a soft(brass) object to depress the button, do not use steel as it will mar the finish.
You do have the skeletonized base, you are off to a flying start(I have paid $300.00 for that particular base), may I suggest that you read the aforementioned post about using Leupold rings on Meopta skeletonized bases.
If you take the rifle apart be sure to use proper fitting screwdrivers as the screws are all hand finished(absolute ##### to replace).
Your pride and joy is one of the nicest examples that I have seen, it most definitely deserves the attention of the most skilled practitioner.
Please do NOT replace that trigger with a single trigger, that rifle is just too lovely to fiddle with.
Regards, J Stuart.

Ps; yes I am feeling a tinge of jealousy, that truly is a gorgeous firearm, quite simply beautifully made.

 

[nrut]

Very nice looking rifle Longwalker...they don't come nicer than that....I just cleaned up a 21H beater last week...As to your floor plate problem just remove the whole floor plate from the rifle and soak it in diesil along with other parts that maybe full of gunk....Buy a little brass brush the same size as a toothbrush from the hardware store and clean all your parts up...I made a little scraper out of a nail to get in the tight areas....Clean the diesil off with brake cleaner then oil or spray with G96.....When the barreled action is out of the stock check the stock over very carefully for cracks in the inletted area.....and be careful not to lose any screws....
mic
Edit: J Stuart is right about the screw drivers...best to get a gunsmith set if you don't already have a set...

 

[Longwalker]

Thanks guys. I have two sets of good gunsmith screwdrivers, and wouldn't consider touching a nice gun with a regular-type screwdriver! Learned that lesson long ago. One trigger guard screw on this rifle is already burred, the rest are perfect and I intend to keep them that way.
This rifle also has a mis-matched replacement butt plate, made of hard plastic that is from another rifle. It is a bit too small. I'd like to fit a skeleton style steel buttplate and grip cap to get rid of the existing plastic. Has anyone done this with a finished stock? My limited undertanding is that the skeleton steel caps and plates are fitted to semi-finished stocks and filed to final shape by the stockmaker. Is it practical to do this to a finished stock? I may have to strip the old finish anyway because the laquer is flaking off in a couple of places near the floorplate and bolt opening recess. The finish is 98% OK, but if I touch up the 2 small bare spots with tru-oil is it likely to match the old finish?

 

[Noel]

Longwalker,

There is a 21H for sale out here that was rechambered by Mr. Gibbs himself to 7 Gibbs. It has seen alot of rough life but the interesting part of it is the skeleton grip cap it wears. I cannot say how to do it but boy is it nice!

If the butt plate has the raised edge around the perimeter and checkering across the surface it is the origonal Brno bakelite pad. The one on my Brno is grossly undersized too, actually on both of my 21's they are.

Keep in mind your rifle is a bit of a collector piece and although your mods will add more beauty to your eye and mine, they may not help hold the value. Just my 2 bits worth. This is the only 22F I have seen in Canada, all the others are 21F's with the longer barrel.

Noel

 

[Nechako]

Very nice!
My ZG also likes the Federal 175gr.
If you don't reload look for some European ammo, way more thump than the Federal stuff.

Nechako

 

[stocker]

The floor plate on my 21H defied removal. I finally used a nylon drift and hammer with some one else holding the button down to get it off. I eased the fit of the tenons that secure it but I think what helped most was clipping about 1/2 a coil of the button spring off. The original spring length was simply too long and it bottomed on itself before release was obtained. It now releases without a lot of effort but has plenty of retention left in the spring. When examining it I concluded that no one else had ever got it open in the previous 56 years. I wondered how they got it together it was so tight.

My rifle seems accurate with a variety of loads but I do seat bullets out nearly as far as the magazine will permit to lessen bullet jump in the throat. If I recall correctly the OAL cartridge length with 150 grain bullets is 3.25".
Of all the rifles I own this one (7 x 57) is the slickest feeding of all. Makes you want to check to see if a cartridge actually was moved into the chamber when you cycle the bolt.

Mine came with the single factory trigger which is really only the front trigger of the double set system. It caused me pain in my hand to actually get it to fire. A total lack of leverage in that system.That has been replaced with a Blackburn trigger which moves the trigger way back in the guard where it should be. It required lengthening the opening in the bottom metal to accomodate that , also the bottom metal has to be milled internally to provide clearance for the trigger housing just as most Mausers are. Perhaps more work than some other installations but when Ralf Martini says this is the best of them all I accept his word. It is a very sweet trigger now and well constructed throughout. I'd do it again in a flash.

 

[Noel]

I believe I ended up changing out the spring in my floorplate all together to make it function. Fitting the Dayton trigger took the same effort metal wise as stockers. My single trigger 21 was rogue too. Aside from these two struggles and the scopes need such high mounting it is very hard to find any other shortcoming in these rifles.