So I recently picked up this BRNO 602 chambered in 450 ackley mag (originally a 458wm). I got it from an auction so somewhat sight unseen, upon inspection once I received it seems whomever did the rechamber also attempted to open the feed rails for smooth feeding but made a mess of it. Is this something that could be repaired? Seems like it would have to be tig welded or something to build it back up and then milled down again?
BRNO 602 feed rail repair
- Thread starter turbo250
- Start date
QUOTE>>>>>have to be tig welded or something to build it back up and then milled down again<<<<<ENDQUOTE
That would be my guess. As long as you have heat sinks up to & including the locking lug recess, everything behind that can be swiss-cheesed; it will not affect the action's strength.
That would be my guess. As long as you have heat sinks up to & including the locking lug recess, everything behind that can be swiss-cheesed; it will not affect the action's strength.
For sure but call any reputable builder and ask what a sorted 450 would cost. trying to fix (I don’t think any reputable smith would even try and fix) that is just throwing good money away.
Strip it for parts and give the rest away or scrap it. Chalk it up to a learning experience
I am not sure but I think mig heats the action up less than tig.
I think this is going to end up ugly in either case. You might be better off milling flats and soft soldering in flast stock and then lightly milling what is required. A lot of work for a cheap action.
If it cycles fine maybe just work on making it look better... although it isn't something anyone would notice while you were shooting it...
I think this is going to end up ugly in either case. You might be better off milling flats and soft soldering in flast stock and then lightly milling what is required. A lot of work for a cheap action.
If it cycles fine maybe just work on making it look better... although it isn't something anyone would notice while you were shooting it...
OP,
A brass heat sink the length of the bolt rails inserted on the top side.
2 brass heat sinks installed on the underside to allow access w/ a TIG torch 1/4" alumina cup.
Purge the top side while welding from the underside.
Remove any copper plating from filler material for parent metal color match for rebluing purposes.
MIG welding will induce too much heat to the surrounding area.
MIG is a short arc process & spatter would be an issue.
TIG is NOT a short arc process, so there is NOT any sparks/spatter.
A brass heat sink the length of the bolt rails inserted on the top side.
2 brass heat sinks installed on the underside to allow access w/ a TIG torch 1/4" alumina cup.
Purge the top side while welding from the underside.
Remove any copper plating from filler material for parent metal color match for rebluing purposes.
MIG welding will induce too much heat to the surrounding area.
MIG is a short arc process & spatter would be an issue.
TIG is NOT a short arc process, so there is NOT any sparks/spatter.
stickhunter
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This thread reminded me that I'd seen another BRNO 602 in 450 Ackley for sale not too long ago at Ellwood Epps. The rifle has since sold, but I found the ad and it seems to show a similar modification to the right feed rail. The timing may just be coincidental, but I wonder if someone bought the rifle from Epps, noticed the workmanship, and then sent it off to auction... the one at Epps sold for $799.
personally, i would mill more of it away and cut a piece of different metal that fit sin the milled away spot and solder it in place, not silver solder but more so a tough leadless plumbing or jewelry solder (lower temp) and then reshape the feed rail
if you were to tig it you would want the action submerged in water with just the rail above and then do 2 or 3 dabs, let it cool, repeat until its built up, get a laser temp gun and not let anywhere other then the direct weld spot get very hot, the little weld dabs will dissipate heat fast and not put much heat into it if you are quick
if you were to tig it you would want the action submerged in water with just the rail above and then do 2 or 3 dabs, let it cool, repeat until its built up, get a laser temp gun and not let anywhere other then the direct weld spot get very hot, the little weld dabs will dissipate heat fast and not put much heat into it if you are quick
Some do not have the slightest clue how the TIG welding process works.
