I have a 601 in .223 that I don't believe is ejecting properly. You really have to reef back on the bolt to get it to eject reliably. If you don't, the empty ends up backwards laying on top of the magazine follower. The ejector seems to work fine, but the extractor seems a bit worn. The folks at CZ canada say they can't find any parts for this rifle. Any ideas what I should do? Also, is this action type (ZKK 601) a "controlled round feed" ?
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Brno ZKK 601
- Thread starter Gillshot
- Start date
Yes - its a CRF. Some on the mauser style commercial rifles have had the extractors modified slightly to facilitate the extractor slipping over the case rim - so they can push feed - in a pinch. I've never tried it with mine - dont want to risk bending/breaking the extractor.
1. take the bolt out and put the brass into the extractor - fitting the brass on the front of the bolt face - does it stay put like a part of the bolt? or does ithe brass drop out?
2. If it stays fairly firm onto the bolt face, put the bolt back in, make a dummy (empty!!) round or 2 and slowly work the action from feeding through extraction to ejection. As the round is being ejected, watch very closely to see if the round is being flipped out and back. If so, watch to see if the brass hits the front right upper part of the rear receiver bolt raceway. Sometimes there may even be a rear scope base edge hanging over the opening of the bolt.
I have seen on a couple of mine, that the brass hits that edge and just flips back onto the bolt. (especially with small rounds for the action size) Put some lipstick on that leading edge of the receiver raceway and on any scope base edge. Then work your brass again. Look for marks on your brass - either shiney or lipstick.
Sometimes that rear leading edge is so sharp that I have to take a file and dehorn it. The brass would hit it and immediately be stopped and just dropped back. Maybe the rear scope base/ring is in the way.
Only BRNO I have ever seen not eject properly was one where bubba ground the extractor to some point for some reason. It would pull the round out , but it would immediately fall out of the extractor and lay on the follower (front foward tho) - one had to hold the rifle sideways to have it eject properly.
2. If it stays fairly firm onto the bolt face, put the bolt back in, make a dummy (empty!!) round or 2 and slowly work the action from feeding through extraction to ejection. As the round is being ejected, watch very closely to see if the round is being flipped out and back. If so, watch to see if the brass hits the front right upper part of the rear receiver bolt raceway. Sometimes there may even be a rear scope base edge hanging over the opening of the bolt.
I have seen on a couple of mine, that the brass hits that edge and just flips back onto the bolt. (especially with small rounds for the action size) Put some lipstick on that leading edge of the receiver raceway and on any scope base edge. Then work your brass again. Look for marks on your brass - either shiney or lipstick.
Sometimes that rear leading edge is so sharp that I have to take a file and dehorn it. The brass would hit it and immediately be stopped and just dropped back. Maybe the rear scope base/ring is in the way.
Only BRNO I have ever seen not eject properly was one where bubba ground the extractor to some point for some reason. It would pull the round out , but it would immediately fall out of the extractor and lay on the follower (front foward tho) - one had to hold the rifle sideways to have it eject properly.
Far shot, the boltface will hold the shell firmly, and I have watched it eject and I don't think its hitting anything. My rifle actually sounds just like the example you gave (have to hold sideways to eject). I bought this gun used and have no idea of what may have been done to it.
try the lipstick thing to see if the brass is hitting anything. Look carefully at the brass for scratches or marks about 3/4 inch from the base.
As the extractor is holding it firmly to the face - it should travel back until it hits the ejector and then flip out - not much can go wrong there. Best to make sure the ejector is good and clean (may help..)
Your statement that the brass ends up on the follower laying backwards makes me believe that it IS hitting something at the rear of the extraction and causing it to fly out and then back to lay that way. If the case merely fell out of the extractor on the rear travel - it would only lay on the follower - but facing front.
Try it with a brass with a bullet in it (NO PRIMER OR POWDER!!!! a dummy round only!!!!!!!) The bullet may give it the mass to flip out the way it is supposed to... just to see if that way works.
DO NOT TRY THIS WITH A LOADED ROUND unless you are at the range and have a clear downrange and muzzle control - I have seen serious accidents doing this at home.
As the extractor is holding it firmly to the face - it should travel back until it hits the ejector and then flip out - not much can go wrong there. Best to make sure the ejector is good and clean (may help..)
Your statement that the brass ends up on the follower laying backwards makes me believe that it IS hitting something at the rear of the extraction and causing it to fly out and then back to lay that way. If the case merely fell out of the extractor on the rear travel - it would only lay on the follower - but facing front.
Try it with a brass with a bullet in it (NO PRIMER OR POWDER!!!! a dummy round only!!!!!!!) The bullet may give it the mass to flip out the way it is supposed to... just to see if that way works.
DO NOT TRY THIS WITH A LOADED ROUND unless you are at the range and have a clear downrange and muzzle control - I have seen serious accidents doing this at home.
