Brownell's whiting

imbeded gun oil....got most of it out; but there is still some that t.s.p. is not touching......this is my last hope, and no body stocks this product here in Calgary......could you sell me some?
 
I could send you some, but I think any good paint store or glaziers supply store will stock it. They will either call it; Whiting, French Whiting, or Calcium Carbonate.

I've used it before on a gun stock I wanted to draw the cosmoline out of, and it makes a huge mess if you are treating a large area.

It was easier to just heat the oven to about 175F, and put the stock in until I could see the cosmoline melting and working it's way to the surface. Then I would just wipe off the cosmoline with a shop towel, and return it to the oven as many times as it took for the flow to subside. At the end I gave the stock a rub down with Mineral Spirits to clean off any remaining goo. I don't know if the same technique would work for gun oil that had penetrated deep into the wood.

I wouldn't use TSP, as it is too caustic to the wood from what I have read.

Try those local sources first, and if you are still stuck I will send you some.

Cheers!

P.S. Here is a link discussing Whiting:

http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/reply/136222/t/Re-Brownell-s-Whiting-.html

" ...I have used calcium carbonate (CACO3) for years in removing oil and oil stains from gunstocks and other woodworking projects. It is quick, effective and inexpensive. You don't have to use the Brownells product. I use the white lime fertilizer products that you find in hardware stores lawn products dept. Its also the same product they use for lining football and soccer fields. Buy in bulk and it is inexpensive. Mix it into a thick gravy slurry with TCE (found in paint stores) MEK, acetone, or other quick drying solvent. Paint on the wood and use a hair dryer to warm and lift out the oil. I use a bit of the unmixed solvent on the wood first to facilitate the "whiting" soak-in. All you do is brush off the dried residue with a bristle brush. Final clean-up is done with brake parts leaner aerosol cans. After repeated applications, as necessary you may wish to apply a wash of Oxalic acid solution to even out the wood hue. Then a light wash of baking soda in water to neutralize the acid. Re-apply your final stain and finishing techniques as shown on other threads here, and you have your rifle furniture returned to issued condition."
 
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There is a ceramics store in Calgary called 'Ceramics Canada' that sells it.

2.5 kgs (about 5 lbs.) will run you around $7.00. It would be a lifetime supply for you, and would probably be cheaper than me sending you a few ounces.

They are located at: http://www.ceramicscanada.net/

Ceramics Canada
Bay 152, 2880 - 45th Avenue, SE
Calgary, AB
T2B 3M1

phone: (403) 255-1575
fax: (403) 253-9115

The girl said they are off of Deerfoot Trail and Peigan Trail SE.

Ask for Calcium Carbonate.

Good luck!
 
Couple of trix I have picked up over the years. I use a piece of endless 8 inch wide bag. I put the stock in and close one end with a rubber band and suck out all the air. I then pour in a half gallon of white gas or acetone and let it soak overnight. Mash up some kitty litter and make a paste of kitty potty and white gas or acetone. Or, mix ordinary flour with white gas or acetone. Pull the stock out of the bag and coat with the mix. Let the stock sit in a cool dark place. I do one side at a time with the paste. The solvent will have mixed with the oil in the stock. As the solvent in the paste dry’s it will start sucking the solvent and oil out of the stock. The solvent will evaporate and the oil will be caught by the flour or kitty litter. Repeat this until you are satisfied. You can also skip the soaking and simply heat the stock with a heat gun and then apply the paste. All of these things should be done out of doors. When we took stock making in school one of the students remarked that he put his stocks in the oven to heat them. The instructor asked him if his home owners insurance covered arson. Messing with solvents in the basement is fine so long as you get the job done before the fumes reach your furnace or water heater. NUFF SAID? Solvents and heat are heii on plastic and glue so if it has inlays, recoil pad, fore-end tip or grip cap prepare for the worst. It seams to work as well as the commercial stuff. Just easier to get. The only better way that I have seen is what a friend of mine does. He has a 15 gallon drum of varsol that he dumps the stock into for a couple days. He then takes it out and hangs it muzzle down on the cloths line for a day. Then back into the varsol. He does that about 5 times and the stock is as dry as a popcorns fart. No muss, no fuss no mess. He actually removes some stock finishes with his varsol tank. Soaks them for a week and then scrubs the finish off with a plastic brillo pad. It does not melt the finish but sort of breaks it down and dries it out like it had been left in the sun for 15 years. That trick does not work on epoxy finishes like the types that Weatherby or Remington use. Just oil and lacquer types: Rod
 
speerchucker30x378 said:
When we took stock making in school one of the students remarked that he put his stocks in the oven to heat them. The instructor asked him if his home owners insurance covered arson. Messing with solvents in the basement is fine so long as you get the job done before the fumes reach your furnace or water heater. NUFF SAID?
Click to expand...

There is nothing inherently dangerous with putting your stock in an oven heated no higher that 175F. Cosmoline melts at 113–125 °F (45–52 °C) and has a flashpoint of 365 °F (185 °C).

It is not going to explode, and is not a risk so long as you have not saturated it with flammable solvents.

So far I've de-cosmolined about six stocks with no ill effects (I do open the windows though.)

Ideally, it would be done outside in a homemade solar oven over a period of days or weeks, but in Canada there is a brief season for utilizing that free heat.

I have heard of guys covering their stocks with kitty litter, and placing them in a black plastic bag out in the sun, or in their car on the dash.

I place the UNTREATED stock in the oven, and remove periodically to wipe off with a clean, blue shop towel (moistened and slightly damp with cool tap water.)

I apply mineral spirits at the very end (after I am satisfied I have removed as much cosmoline as possible) to remove the tacky residue. At that point, I have finished exposing the stock to heat.

I don't leave the room when I am working on a stock, and I place aluminum foil on the lowest rack to catch any dripping.

I have tried whiting mixed with acetone, and a heat gun. As well as kitty litter inside a foil pouch.

By far the easiest, and cleanest method, is just to stick it in the oven untreated and bare.

Once it starts flowing, it is like watching sap ooze out of a tree.
 
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