Browning Auto 5 Forestock Issue

woodlotowner

woodlotowner

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Haliburton County, Central Ontario
I picked up a very nice Auto 5 last summer (DOM 1971) and it was quickly becoming my go-to trap gun this past season at the club range until one day I removed it from the case at the range to discover the forestock had split from stem to stern in about 3 places. Not a pleasant surprise. I have repaired the wood at this point, but I cannot see how this stock could have worked in the first place. As far as I can tell the force of the returning action is arrested by the bare wood inside the stock. It almost seems there should be a steel collar inside the stock to accommodate the forces of recoil at this location? Any Auto 5 owners out there who can tell me what the inside of the forestock should look like would be much appreciated. Also, the only used forestock I can find anywhere is at a local gun store and it's half the price of the gun...

Woodlot
 
They are just plain wood. You would think it would be pulverized by the barrel ring but it seems to work. In some extreme cases the wood can become compressed and let the barrel move further ahead than it should. This is in rare cases only. Replacement wood is expensive. If it can be repaired that is the way to go.

Darryl
 
This seems to be a really common issue with A5's. I've seen some guys lay down a layer of acraglas on the inside of the forend to reinforce it. I would go with the fix that Remington used on the 1100 forend, a fiberglass mat and epoxy.
 
The A-5 has the reversible ring for light/strong loads; using the setting for light loads and using magnum cartridges is a good recipe for split fore-ends - which is what previous owners might have done.
 
Much great information here. Thanks gentlemen.

I only use light trap loads, but I don't know what the previous owner(s) may have used. It's the Light Twelve model and is supposed to be rated for standard 12 gauge 2 3/4" loads as well as light loads. I have the rings set as per the instructions inside the fore end.

I was thinking that I would just reinforce the contact area with some epoxy, but I wanted to be sure there was no missing metal contact piece. Maybe I will pin the very front solid portion of the fore end in a couple of places as well.

Interesting about the cap becoming too tight and compressing the wood, especially if environmental conditions change in storage (which is not a real problem here). That's the first thing one of the very knowledgeable gents at trap said when I removed it from the case as being the likely cause. Maybe the trick is to disassemble these guns between uses to prevent varying moisture conditions from wreaking havoc on the wood? I'll try that once it is repaired.

Interesting also is that the movement tolerances of the action will be slightly altered if I add a thin layer of epoxy around the contact area. Sounds like this may not be a bad thing?

After repairing the wood (wood glue and pressure overnight) I treated the inside of the wood with tung oil with the idea this may help in maintaining an even moisture content in the wood. I know from wood working that an untreated edge or side will expand with moisture while the treated surfaces remain dimensionally unchanged. A differential pressure is set up this way. Of course, maybe I'm over thinking this? :)
 
I just watched a video from Art's Gun Shop on the A5. He says the forend cap should only be finger tight and make sure the forearm is seated against the receiver with no gap. Also, as mentioned, the rings installed the proper way for the load being used. He also mentioned that if the action spring and recoil spring are compressed, that could increase the recoil which could damage the forend over time. Perhaps the springs should be replaced. I am in the process of doing that right now to a light twelve I have. It is from 1967 and no cracks.
 
gunsaholic said:
I just watched a video from Art's Gun Shop on the A5. He says the forend cap should only be finger tight and make sure the forearm is seated against the receiver with no gap. Also, as mentioned, the rings installed the proper way for the load being used. He also mentioned that if the action spring and recoil spring are compressed, that could increase the recoil which could damage the forend over time. Perhaps the springs should be replaced. I am in the process of doing that right now to a light twelve I have. It is from 1967 and no cracks.
Click to expand...

I always loosen for end cap before I put my A-5 away after use in case the wood swells.
 
Western Gun Parts in Edmonton would be a source for a replacement forearm. I have purchased a number of Auto 5 parts from them. Having the Browning part number simplifies the ordering process.
 
Pinfire said:
The A-5 has the reversible ring for light/strong loads; using the setting for light loads and using magnum cartridges is a good recipe for split fore-ends - which is what previous owners might have done.
Click to expand...

Exactly...if the appropriate rings are not put on in correct fashion the forend can be broken. The forends came from the factory new with a decal placed inside them showing the correct alignment.
 
woodlotowner said:
I just looked at eBay.ca and did not see any. I assume if they are in the US, on eBay.com, they would not be available to us here in Canada with the US export regulations. Could you provide the link? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yes they were on ebay.com and Midwest Gunworks also has one in stock for the light twelve for $189 US. Wood stocks are not a restricted item for shipping to and from Canada. I have bought and sold several in the US the past few months for projects and they went through customs without issue.
 
the spank said:
Yes they were on ebay.com and Midwest Gunworks also has one in stock for the light twelve for $189 US. Wood stocks are not a restricted item for shipping to and from Canada. I have bought and sold several in the US the past few months for projects and they went through customs without issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Spank. Also, before I shot this gun for the first time I made sure the rings were in place and properly set as per the diagram inside the forestock. As for previous owners...
 
woodlotowner said:
Much great information here. Thanks gentlemen.

I only use light trap loads, but I don't know what the previous owner(s) may have used. It's the Light Twelve model and is supposed to be rated for standard 12 gauge 2 3/4" loads as well as light loads. I have the rings set as per the instructions inside the fore end.

I was thinking that I would just reinforce the contact area with some epoxy, but I wanted to be sure there was no missing metal contact piece. Maybe I will pin the very front solid portion of the fore end in a couple of places as well.

Interesting about the cap becoming too tight and compressing the wood, especially if environmental conditions change in storage (which is not a real problem here). That's the first thing one of the very knowledgeable gents at trap said when I removed it from the case as being the likely cause. Maybe the trick is to disassemble these guns between uses to prevent varying moisture conditions from wreaking havoc on the wood? I'll try that once it is repaired.

Interesting also is that the movement tolerances of the action will be slightly altered if I add a thin layer of epoxy around the contact area. Sounds like this may not be a bad thing?

After repairing the wood (wood glue and pressure overnight) I treated the inside of the wood with tung oil with the idea this may help in maintaining an even moisture content in the wood. I know from wood working that an untreated edge or side will expand with moisture while the treated surfaces remain dimensionally unchanged. A differential pressure is set up this way. Of course, maybe I'm over thinking this? :)
Click to expand...

Check the Numrich schematic.
 
Just waiting for Western to reopen after the holidays. I emailed them last week and they have new fore stocks available from the now discontinued Japanese version of the Auto 5. It should go right on the gun, but a small amount of fitment will not be a problem. I hesitated last week on this since, with taxes and shipping, it will be half the price of my old gun, but I have had the most enjoyment from this old piece at the trap range that I figure it's worth it. Also, I am going to disassemble the gun between uses from now on...

Thanks again to all for the input.
 
A5 Browning parts are very expensive.
I have a few of them from my trap days, 32 inch barrel 3 inch magnum guns.
There was a time in America when everyone was dumping the old Browning rifles and A5 shotguns.
Was a great time to be a buyer
Numrich and Sarco got the A5 parts and sold them really reasonable at the time.
They had mint in the box stocks and forends. I think I paid $39.00 each for the stocks and forends
The best thing to do is buy wood sets from people who went to A5 "plastic sets"
Some are very nice, some are not. But, you can use the good wood on the trap gun and the other wood
on the field gun.
 
Japanese copycat Nikko auto5 clone(e.g.Daiwa) has better forarm design and protection.

Based on my own experience, it should fit your auto 5 without a lot of modifications.
 
Boyd's Gunstocks (ht tps://www.boydsgunstocks.com) in the U.S. lists Browning A5 Light 12 ga. forends starting at $43.50. They have a wide variety of laminated colours plus what looks like 3 grades of walnut forends as well. According to their website they will ship to Canada.
 
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