Browning Double Auto Load Cycling?

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RadioDread

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Hey Gents!

Looking for some help with my matching pair of Double Autos. I have two 26'' barrel (fixed Mod choke) Twelvettes I picked up awhile back for myself and my father in law. We had them out together for the first time on Monday shooting clays with a flat of Challenger #7.5 target loads (1-1/8 oz if I remember). Mine would cycle about 80% of the time however the other only cycled right once. It would however lock back on each shot. Both have been taken apart and cleaned with the exception that mine had the recoil system taken apart and cleaned then wiped nearly dry. Neither were what I would have called dirty or fouled to start with before the initial cleaning I did two weeks ago or so. I can say based on anodizing wear on the loading port that his has been used very little. I forgot to take any heavier game loads so I can't say I tried any yet. Any thoughts and what I can try or should look for? Its pretty frustrating having a very rare single shot semi auto lol.

Any experienced DA owners out there?

Cheer,
RadioDread
 
Copied/Pasted'ear frum nudder forum..................:wave:

I had to tear my DA apart twice to solve the hanging up issue and the first time I used the sticky thread in the Browning section. On close inspection on the second tear down the two brass bushings to control friction are not the same on my gun. The diameter on the end of one of the bushings was smaller. My DA is a steel receiver second year production based on serial number and no visible rivets in forearm. When I tore mine down again the front brass bushing was stuck in the barrel lug reducing its split diameter too much creating too much friction. I swapped bushings around and installed the bushing with the smaller end into the barrel lug. Problem solved!!! Note if your forearm snaps up correctly to hold barrel I would draw an index line on the barrel nut on the face even with the holes the forearm pin goes through and put an arrowhead on one end. Count revolutions to remove nut, do your cleaning, etc. and recount revolutions to tighten placing arrowhead back into correct position. This will index the nut back exactly to where it was. If your barrel is hard to remove and you need to push barrel into receiver to snap up forearm, or sloppy, index nut one hole at a time from your witness mark position in the correct direction. Put forearm on and test function. Turn nut in to put less pressure on forearm closure and out to make forearm harder to close. One set of index holes is a big change on my gun. I had to try mine three times since the person who torn it down before me had that screwed up too. Setting barrel nut is pretty similar to setting preload on the front wheel bearings using a castle nut and cotter pin.
 
Found that too. Not sure that is my problem with the second DA but I will try look at it closely again this weekend and double check. However as I mentioned it does lock back with every shot. I would think the little button latch that holds the shell lifter/follower (not sure what these parts are actually called lol) doesn't let go during cycling. Any chance its just not broken in enough? The loading port looks brand new while the other that does cycle most of the time has obviously had some shells through it.

kamlooky said:
Copied/Pasted'ear frum nudder forum..................:wave:

I had to tear my DA apart twice to solve the hanging up issue and the first time I used the sticky thread in the Browning section. On close inspection on the second tear down the two brass bushings to control friction are not the same on my gun. The diameter on the end of one of the bushings was smaller. My DA is a steel receiver second year production based on serial number and no visible rivets in forearm. When I tore mine down again the front brass bushing was stuck in the barrel lug reducing its split diameter too much creating too much friction. I swapped bushings around and installed the bushing with the smaller end into the barrel lug. Problem solved!!! Note if your forearm snaps up correctly to hold barrel I would draw an index line on the barrel nut on the face even with the holes the forearm pin goes through and put an arrowhead on one end. Count revolutions to remove nut, do your cleaning, etc. and recount revolutions to tighten placing arrowhead back into correct position. This will index the nut back exactly to where it was. If your barrel is hard to remove and you need to push barrel into receiver to snap up forearm, or sloppy, index nut one hole at a time from your witness mark position in the correct direction. Put forearm on and test function. Turn nut in to put less pressure on forearm closure and out to make forearm harder to close. One set of index holes is a big change on my gun. I had to try mine three times since the person who torn it down before me had that screwed up too. Setting barrel nut is pretty similar to setting preload on the front wheel bearings using a castle nut and cotter pin.
Click to expand...
 
My DA wont cycle target loads reliably. Tore it down even to the point of taking the recoil piston apart within the butstock out. 50 years of shooting field shooting showed very little dirt. Problem still persisted. Mine shoots flawlessly with heavy field loads.
 
Look up Artsgunshop in Missouri and follow the videos .
Actually, you might look up his videos on U Toob before they disappear.
There is a boat load of info on there to watch and learn from.
What colour are the receivers and are they aluminum or steel?
Take a magnet if you need to figure it out quicker.
My guess is you need a couple new action springs.
Rob
 
FLHTCUI said:
Look up Artsgunshop in Missouri and follow the videos .
Actually, you might look up his videos on U Toob before they disappear.
There is a boat load of info on there to watch and learn from.
What colour are the receivers and are they aluminum or steel?
Take a magnet if you need to figure it out quicker.
My guess is you need a couple new action springs.
Rob
Click to expand...

Hey Rob

Both are matching aluminum Twelevettes anodized glossy black with gold inlays.
 
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