browning questions

Claven2

Claven2

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Two questions -

1) what's the best way to brown black powder rifle parts? Does the commercial wipe-on, wipe-off stuff work ok, or is it crappy like cold blue is?

2) has anyone here stripped the blue off a commercial black powder rifle such as a Lyman Great Plains of T/C Hawken and then browned the metal? If so, got pics and can you share your experiences?
 
What are the plusses and minuses of the browned vs. blued finish? Which requires more maintenance? What has better rust resistance? What about wear characteristics?
 
Funny you brought this up im in the process of browning a Antique revolver.
I use Birchwoodscasy plumb brown and have done the trigger gaurd with 5 coats and boiling after each coat (makes it go black) and the trigger gaurd is just beatufull has a nice black finish.
Its Easy really just clean the part good, I used steel wool to buff it, i use brake cleaner from Can Tire then heat the part in an old electric frying pan till a wet cue tip hisses when you touch the metal.
Take the part out with twezers.
Then do the browning with a cue tip,
Dont touch the part with your Club hands,
then boil it for a couple minutes then use fine steel wool to get the soft brown crap off.
After a few coats it goes black then oil. I did 5 coats cause i want a nice dark black finish as im keeping this gun for myself.
It looks much better than just that Brown colour. ;)
 
That may be the case, but the blueing on Italian BP replicas is already a deep black. I more had the actual brown colored browning in mind. Is that done differently?

Is all browning done as a wipe-on and boil product, or are there other types? I'm a total newb when it comes to browning, so any help would be useful.
 
Browning is a controlled oxidation process. The instant browns like Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown can give a good finish rather quickly. There is no comparison between a cold blue and this brown, as far a durability of finish is concerned. You really do not want to breathe the fumes, or get this stuff on your skin. There are VERY toxic chemicals in it. Basically you prep the surface, degrease, heat until the solution sizzles and apply it. Keep the steel hot, and keep applying it until it is the colour you want. Clean and oil or wax. Then there are the traditional browns. Prep, degrease, apply, allow to work, rub down, repeat. May take a week. Humidity and warmth are factors. If it is very dry, may not work at all. Some people use a cabinet with a bit of warmth and moisture. There are also browns which involve boiling, like rust blue. All the commercial preparations come with detailed instructions. Many antique style firearms look good when browned. Not all were origianlly finished this way. Often the brown you see on antiques isn't the finish, its just 150 years of oxidaton and handling. If you do want to brown your rifle's barrel, it would be easy enough to chemically strip the blue, give it a scrub with steel wool and have at it.
 
Tiriaq That waxing hows that done? a buddy told me get the metal hot then apply bees wax. Is that right? Doesnt it get sticky when the gun warms up??
I would like to know more about Waxing as a final finish.
 
I've have used paste wax. You can also use the microcrystaline wax used by museum conservators. Lee Valley and Brownells sell it. This is what I'm using now.
 
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How do you keep the barrel hot enough to apply sizling browning solution without getting any brown into the bore?

Also, I think most kentucky and Pensylvania rifles were browned back in the day, but were Hawkens browned?
 
I use laurel Mountain Forge Browning and Degreaser. Goes on cold and no fancy proccedures to follow. Kill the proccess with warm water and baking soda. I use Johnsons Paste Wax after. Leaves an nice deep brown. If you glass bead blast the parts first it works quicker.
 
browning

I have used both the BC brown that you have to heat the barrel up and the LMF cold brown the cold brown is buy far a better finish much more durable with a deep rich brown look you can get it from Track of the wolf as far as the solution getting into the bore I went to a store that sell's wine makeing supplies and bought a cork..never had a problem
 
OK, well I got tired of finding a Canadian source - everyone I called was going to order it for me from Brownells. Hell, I could do that myself!

so instead I just ordered a bottle from Track of the Wolf for about 7 bucks. Now we'll see if it makes it through customs or not... ;)
 
browning

Yes TOW, will send the LMF brown to Canada,also muriatic acid can be used you can get it at most hardware store's Home Depot etc.it is used the same way as the LMF.But get the LMF if you can...rusty
 
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