Budget Long Range Rig

Im sure this is like beating a dead horse....but, hear me out.

Im looking to setup a budget long range rifle. Im not competing, yet. I just want to go bang steel out to 1500 yards. Im torn between buying a Savage 12 Varmint in 6.5 Needmore (thats not a typo lol), a Savage 10t SR in 6 Creed or a Ruger american predator in 6.5 Needmore or 6 creed. Each one obviously has its perks and I want to be able to put a brake on it for multiple reasons.

Savage 12 Pros: Under $500, 26" barrel
Cons: No magazine, not threaded for a brake.

Savage 10t SR Pros: 24" barrel, available in a 6 Creed, threaded
Cons: $800, Still no magazine

Ruger American Predator Pros: Threaded Barrel, Detatchable mag, can get in 6 creed.
Cons: 22" barrel (slower velocity) still $700 +/-

If you guys had to choose, which one and why? I know a guy can have a barrel threaded but the whole goal is to run a turn key rifle without having to take it to a smith or do any mods. Im leaning towards the Ruger but nervous about the 22" barrel and low velocity. After all, an RPR is basically an american in a chassis..or is that wrong to assume?

Thanks guys, if anyone has any other ideas or suggestions throw them my way. I am open to the savage 12 without a brake, just wondering who shoots all day without a brake. Does the low recoiling 6.5 get to a guy after blasting for hours?

I have some thoughts on a Savage, I have a Model 12 that has been rebarrelled after ~2500 rounds 260 Rem., the last 10 shot group went 0.6 moa at 100m, it would get into the 0.4's at 300m under good conditions The barrel and 'smith work cost ~ $1,000, I'm just fire forming brass for it now. This rifle with the rounds that it has on it has a worn trigger, and will be replaced when the new one shows up, cost here is $250.....so now I have $1250 on an $800 rifle. Doesn't sound like good economy and it isn't. While been a good shooter, it's a clunker.

To the OP, if you want to engage steel at 1500 yards (our range goes to 1500) reliably I would strongly suggest a Tikka Varmint in the appropriate caliber for that distance. What you get is a hand lapped barrel on par with any of the aftermarket big names, a trigger that is easily made 'bench' quality for $30 with a YoDave spring, smooth action that cycles quickly and many aftermarket options that do not require a gunsmith.

Now, if expectations are reduced to ~1200 yards then a 6.5 CM is fine.

The rifle itself is a major contributor to accuracy, but without impeccable handloads, a scope that adjusts precisely and holds zero, good bench technique with associated rests the rifle /any rifle, will not shine.
 
Why would you cheap out...maybe, just maybe, he doesn't have the cash for a Cadex. I'm really getting tired of this position. Everyone loves a quality item, but what exactly does that mean? There's best, and then there's good enough, good enough is just that, sufficient "quality" to do what you want it to. My entire rig cost less than most custom actions, and here's the best part, I wouldn't expect a high end custom to shoot any better. 1/2" or better for five shots, pretty much on command, is that representative of an "average" Savage, I've had enough to know the answer is damn close.

I'd love to buy a Cadex, or build a high end custom, but it's not going to happen. The idea that just anyone can save for a $5000 Rifle is to be blunt stupid. If that was my plan, I could also save on my Range Membership, because I wouldn't be able to shoot for 3-4 years squirreling away the cash...but maybe I could get them to send me a nice brochure. I could look at it and fantasize about the 1/3" groups I'm going to shoot in 3 years, or I could just load up some of my Cheap a$$ Hornady HPBT's and go knock off a few.

I really don't think some of you realize just how offensive this elitist BS crap is.

Alleluia!!!!!
Well said!
 
Thanks for the opinions guys, after checking out the EE I think ill try and pickup a used barreled action. A few have caught my eye the last couple days for very reasonable prices. A couple in 6.5 manbun, 1 in 6 Creed and 1 in 6.5-284.
 
Cabelas savage model 10tr comes in the aluminum beaded accustock goes on sale for $650.00 comes with 20 moa rail and threaded for break detachable mag ten rnd savage mags available I have one 1000yrds no problem on a ten inch cabelas gong
 
I'll add to the Savage hype.. lol

I've got the Cabela's Savage 10T-SR also, in 6.5 CM

Is it a really nice looking, nicely finished, super smooth rifle? No, it isn't.

Does it feed smooth as butter from the mag, then fling empty cases 4 feet away like my Tikka?
No, they feed like dragging a 2x4 over a gravel road,
then the empties drool out over the ejection port and lay next to me on the mat.

It's a 10 lb pig of a rifle that has a decent trigger and shoots better than anything that costs that few $$ should. I single feed the dam* thing anyway..

Add a scope, a bipod, a pound or so of lead shot in a shrink-wrap bag in the butt stock, and you've got about 13 pounds of rifle to soak up what little kick a 6.5 generates. Don't sweat the recoil worries, it's a real pussycat to shoot.

I'd agree with redshooter too, there's absolutely nothing wrong with getting into the long range game on a budget.
I'd sooner have 10 guys show up at an F-class match shooting Savages and Remington 783's than one lonely guy with a custom-built rifle that cost what I consider big money for a used car.
 
I have a savage build and a TL3 build. Both have worn similar chassis systems... both have worn the same glass... both have worn the same barrels.

Does the TL3 feel smoother? 300%.
Has the savage ever failed to feed? No, the TL3 has.
Does the TL3 shoot better groups? No - and this is hard to admit given the cost of action.

Both setups can do 5 rounds in 1/2" groups (100yd). Awesome barrels > action in my experience.
 
I have a savage build and a TL3 build. Both have worn similar chassis systems... both have worn the same glass... both have worn the same barrels.

Does the TL3 feel smoother? 300%.
Has the savage ever failed to feed? No, the TL3 has.
Does the TL3 shoot better groups? No - and this is hard to admit given the cost of action.

Both setups can do 5 rounds in 1/2" groups (100yd). Awesome barrels > action in my experience.

Yep... and what I have proven in the many test rifles I have built over the years.

Jerry
 
I have a savage build and a TL3 build. Both have worn similar chassis systems... both have worn the same glass... both have worn the same barrels.

Does the TL3 feel smoother? 300%.
Has the savage ever failed to feed? No, the TL3 has.
Does the TL3 shoot better groups? No - and this is hard to admit given the cost of action.

Both setups can do 5 rounds in 1/2" groups (100yd). Awesome barrels > action in my experience.

Good barrels, good chamber work (and chamber specs appropriate for your ammo), and quality ammo will have a much, much, much greater impact on precision then the action choice. Your experience isn't really that surprising or unexpected (besides the TL3 feeding issues, sounds like somethings not right with your feeding, but that's besides the point).

An action has little influence on the systems potential for precision - that's not a secret, in fact it's very well known. An action's main job is to insert and extract ammunition from the barrel/chamber. A TL3 will do a few things better then a Savage action, but if you are buying a TL3 action thinking it's going to have more potential for precision, then you are going about building a rifle all wrong.

Dollar for dollar, spending money on the best barrel and chamber work you can afford, will go farther to enhance your rifles precision, then probably anything else. If precision on a budget is the absolute top priority, then I agree that buying a cheap action and sticking a good quality barrel (with good chamber work), is the best course of action to achieve that. Or just buying a Tikka.
 
Thanks guys, Ive been keeping my eyes open for something on the EE and yesterday picked up a Tikka Varmint in 7mm rem mag for cheaper then a savage 10t sr lol so thats going be what I start plinkin around with. Eventually I want to swap the bottom metal so I can use a longer mag for OAL, and maybe eventually throw it in a chassis...thats down the road.
 
By no means am I a great shooter, and I have under $1000 into my rifle that I've built from parts off the EE. Off the bench I have shot lots of sub MOA 5 shot groups with hand loads. 69gr SMK and 68gr Hornady Match. I suspect if I shot more and tuned the load better it would also do far better... For distance the best I have been able to do is put a few consecutive through a blue Folgers coffee can at just over 500 yards on private property.

Stevens 200 action/bolt in .223
savage 12 stainless fluted barrel
MDT (savage branded) chassis
Timney SAV-10 trigger
'Amazon' fake Atlas style bipod

I have been thinking of buying one of the Savage T-SR in 6.5 just for the barreled action that I could just swap in and out of my chassis depending on what I want to shoot... sadly I can only practice to 300 when my local range is even open...
 
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