Building from scratch or buy a full rifle

There is some good feedback in this thread. Depending on your situation, 338lm can be not bad to load/ shoot. What distance are you shooting? I regularly shoot at 1300 meters and have access to 1600 plus within 5 minutes of my house, so these big calibers can be stretched out.

I love 338lm and have been shooting it in various rifles for about 9 years now. I'll never forget when I first pulled the trigger on one.

A note on cost. I took the expensive route and bought a great first 338LM and glass (PGW with a premier reticles scope). There are cheaper ways to do it, but ultimately a good scope and a decent rifle aren't cheap (probably would cost $4k to $5k if you found great deals on both? I've had a couple beers and this is off of the top of my head). It is definitely cheaper than when I was shooting 416 barrett. Yikes that was pricey.

Reloading (assuming you already reload):
-Pretty much a must to truly enjoy it (at least in my mind). My buddy and I shared a set of dies when we first bought our rifles to reduce the cost. We actually split the first box of lapua brass too.
-Bullets aren't too expensive if you aren't shooting lathe turned solids (bergers appear to be over $1 a bullet these days but still its not too bad). When you find a deal buy a whole bunch.
-Brass, buy 100 lapua brass new or find a bunch of once fired. I've done that a couple times and have a ton of lapua brass kicking around now for my various rifles.
-Powder, again, buy bulk. I load h1000 for the most part. Shoot me a PM if you want the company name as I don't think they are a sponsor here.

Rifles:
-Best value is to buy used. No question here. You can get into a nice 338lm (sako, hs precision, or some others) for less than $4,000 depending on what you are looking for (I'm always looking because I love them). If you want to shoot me a message with your budget as I've seen some decent deals lately
-As others have said, custom rifles bought second hand can be a great value. Keep an eye out for that. I've had a couple stellar semi customs (these were in smaller calibers) for good prices I bought off of here.
-You may want to consider a switch barrel platform like a desert tech SRS or barrett mrad so you have some flexibility. You could buy a desert tech in 300 WM or something and have a 338LM conversion kit for example. They aren't cheap, but you can get into a couple calibers in a great rifle for less than the cost of 2 rifles.

Finally:
-There are some great magnum calibers that will do well out past a mile. 300 WM, 300 RUM, 28 nosler (on paper - waiting for my rifle to continue experimenting), etc. I just find the 338 and bigger calibers more fun to shoot. They may also be easier to spot your misses at distance as well.
-These smaller calibers will be cheaper to get into
-I've actually started moving on from 338LM into faster 338's and such to achieve my goals
-Consider all your options and understand what it is going to cost. If that doesn't stress you out GO FOR IT. I regret none of my time with the 338LM. It is so much fun.

Ben

Desert tech in a faster 338 cal (36" custom barrel):
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Timberwolf with an S&B
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Given the addn info you have provided, my suggestion is simply to load up a better bullet into your current 308 and enjoy shooting out to 1 mile.

As a very happy byproduct of where I live, I can shoot very far ALOT through the year and have been enjoying LR and ELR shooting for a couple of decades now. If you are competing, you build the best set up to suit the rules and tasks. If you are just having fun, have fun... put the resources into the cost of going shooting and being able to do it more then a few times a year.

Even with all this real estate (terrain goes WAAAYYYYYYY beyond 2000yds), I shoot inside a mile way more then beyond. Everyone seems so afraid of drift. Trust me, EVERYTHING drifts.

Here we are shooting out to 1450yds. It was a strong quartering wind out of the 8 oclock.. this became more full value beyond 1000yds as you entered the next valley/opening. My friend was shooting his 408 Cheytac.... I was shooting a 22 Creedmoor. Our drops weren't too far different and my drift was not a whole lot more. I definitely had to move around more BUT maybe 1/2 mil more... that is a couple of lines in my scope reticle. Big deal.

Cost difference? 10 to 1.... I shoot a mag... my buddy takes ONE shot. We both put lots of hits on the same target.

If you WANT a boomer, go for it. Enjoy it while we still can. If you think you NEED a boomer to reach out, NOPE!!! Absolutely NOPE.

In fact, the best cartridge options for accuracy, cost of running, ease of shooting and freaking accurate, look at the F class world. All the competitive rifles will shoot Sub 5" at 1000yds... and these bullets will easily reach 1 mile.

I was doing a scope tracking test with my FTR (308Win) rifle. Target was pretty darn small at 1 mile. putting hits on that target was straightforward. Yes, I am using a Savage action.

It will be far harder to approach this level of accuracy with a larger boomer... on several levels. Maybe a new barrel is all you need to take you to the next level and you now have the resources to go out and enjoy it.

Jerry

Jerry, how much elevation were you dialing with the 308 at 1600m?

By the way, solid advice as usual.

Ben
 
Jerry, how much elevation were you dialing with the 308 at 1600m?

By the way, solid advice as usual.

Ben


Ben, that DT looks great... glad you are enjoying the MPOD.

I was shooting the new gen Sierra 200gr MK at around 2600fps... ball park UP is 28.5mils... 10mph drift is 4.5mils - JBM data to reach 1750yds.

I compared the ballistics to it running 2800fps which would be similar to a magnum case..... 24 mils up..... drift was 4.2mils!!!

Interesting how little drift changes vs muzzle velocity at distance.


Jerry
 
https://choose.tikka.fi/global/tikka/t3x-varmint

These rifles have an easily tunable trigger, a barrel as good as most aftermarket barrels, excellent support in the after market.

6.5 Creedmore would be my pick as there are very good factory ammo available and lots of choices in bullets , brass etc for the handloader.

I have several Tikka's that have been rebarreled, 6 Dasher, 260 Rem, 280 ai, but one in particular , a Tikka Tactical 300 win Mag, has put me on the podium (4" for 5 shots, 8" for 10 shots) a few times at 1000 yard events. This rifle is stock except for a YoDave spring.

As a starter precision rifle you will be impressed with the Tikka Varmint , as others state cost per round is important when you are burning 1/2 to 1 pound of powder per session.
 
Where do you get the reload data for that? My book (Hornady) only have the specs for a bullet up to 190gr...

Thanks again for all the feedback guys!

Sierra offered a lot of data for these new gen bullets... search their site or contact their tech line. But like any bullet, just get a bullet weight that is close, use a START load and work up slowly watching both pressure signs and velocity. There is no free lunch so whatever the load data suggests for speed, when you get into that zone, you are also playing with similar levels of pressure.

I like this bullet 10 thou OFF the lands.

Jerry
 
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