Had a year old banner dusk to dawn on a 22 wmr replaced on warranty (wouldn't hold zero ). Mounted the new one and the adjustments are weird, sometimes seem to do nothing. At 40 yards finally had 3 shots touch just low and right of a 2 inch circle. Adjusted higher and left and 3 shots touched high and left. 2 clicks down centered but same to left. 2 clicks right and 1 shot 2 inches to the left next 2 inches to the right. Its like I got my old scope back. Is Bushnell quality slid that bad?
Bushnell banner issues
- Thread starter wkp774
- Start date
Bushnell Banners wont win you any prizes. I consider the old 3200 series to be the minimum standard for Bushnell scopes. Try tapping the tube with a blunt object (eg block of wood) before and after making adjustments, that often helps. Also, dont expect reliable performance in cold weather.
Finally, a 22 mag is not the best platform to check scope reliability, as it can easily throw fliers, etc, due to the nature of rimfire ammo.
Finally, a 22 mag is not the best platform to check scope reliability, as it can easily throw fliers, etc, due to the nature of rimfire ammo.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Was common enough in old days - why you see old farts like me tapping on turrets with empty cartridge after adjusting - inside guts of scope not as smooth as they could be - so instead of sliding, often "hang up" and need a "jolt" (like from firing, or tapping) to get to their setting. Was once an article that suggested to be doing your adjustment by turning the turret screw "IN" - so if you need to go "OUT" two clicks - take it "OUT" 10 clicks, then come back by turning "IN" eight clicks. Seems to work. From old days when we did not likely ever touch scope turrets, once the thing got sighted in. Is related to how old-school bias springs supposed to push reticle to follow the turret screw when you screwed turret "out" - relying on that spring to do it's business - was often the same spring for both elevation and windage - spring pushing on reticle housing perhaps 7:30 o'clock - elevation screw at 12:00 and windage at 3:00.
This makes sense. Maybe why sometimes nothing seems to happen. The gun itself is more accurate at 50 yards than I am. The last 2 flyers have me baffled.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I am glad to hear that you got that resolved, to your satisfaction. Is a thing what you should be paying for, when you buy higher end scopes - the quality of the finish on the inside parts, but you can not see them - only whether they work or not. I think was Nightforce or someone that had an ad touting how many DAYS their springs / internal pieces were tumbled to polish them, versus the HOURS that some competitors used - or maybe it was their HOURS versus the competitor's MINUTES.
Our son got a 2.5-10 Burris scope - it has a screw turret at lower left - perhaps 7:30 o'clock - by sighting in normally, then snugging that screw, you were supposed to get that reticle housing held more solidly - at 7:30, 12:00 and 3:00 on the turret screw tips. User has to remember to loosen that 7:30 screw if they want to "re-sight" for different ammo, different range, etc., then re-snug it when done. Most other old days scopes relied on that bias spring to hold the reticle against the elevation and windage adjustments - so it could flop and bounce around in there, upon firing - the idea, though, was that it was always supposed to end up back at "battery" for the next shot.
I have never owned a "Dusk to Dawn" scope - might be worth your while to set that rifle onto sandbags at 25 yards, centered at a target - then move your eye left /right or up/down - see if the cross hair appears to move on that target - it will move more or less at different ranges - that is parallax sighting error - a scope without AO can only be set to be sighting error free at one distance - the reticle does not appear to move on the target at that one distance. Most centre fire scopes typically set for 150 yards - the User booklet for the Leupold rimfires without AO, here, say they are set for 60 yards. Is very easy for user to check for himself - but if you can get your shooting eye in exactly the same position relative to the scope, for each shot, you will be exactly repeating any error, so is not an issue, if you sighted in that rifle.
Our son got a 2.5-10 Burris scope - it has a screw turret at lower left - perhaps 7:30 o'clock - by sighting in normally, then snugging that screw, you were supposed to get that reticle housing held more solidly - at 7:30, 12:00 and 3:00 on the turret screw tips. User has to remember to loosen that 7:30 screw if they want to "re-sight" for different ammo, different range, etc., then re-snug it when done. Most other old days scopes relied on that bias spring to hold the reticle against the elevation and windage adjustments - so it could flop and bounce around in there, upon firing - the idea, though, was that it was always supposed to end up back at "battery" for the next shot.
I have never owned a "Dusk to Dawn" scope - might be worth your while to set that rifle onto sandbags at 25 yards, centered at a target - then move your eye left /right or up/down - see if the cross hair appears to move on that target - it will move more or less at different ranges - that is parallax sighting error - a scope without AO can only be set to be sighting error free at one distance - the reticle does not appear to move on the target at that one distance. Most centre fire scopes typically set for 150 yards - the User booklet for the Leupold rimfires without AO, here, say they are set for 60 yards. Is very easy for user to check for himself - but if you can get your shooting eye in exactly the same position relative to the scope, for each shot, you will be exactly repeating any error, so is not an issue, if you sighted in that rifle.
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