Calling all Waterfowlers

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Hi Guys,

Myself and a few buddies are about to go on our first waterfowl hunt. We booked some time with an outfitter who recomended that we bring #2 shot with us. Now the problem there is about a bigillion different types of non lead shot out there. My question to all of the pro's out there:

Is there really a difference between the 12.00 box of 25 magnum steel loads versus the 30.00+ box of 10? I cant see it myself that the performance is that much better to justify the price difference.

Anyway I'd love to hear your opinion.

Thanks.
 
I use BB's for everything (just personal choice) I've never used anything non-tox besides steel because I just can't justify spending $3 a shot. I've killed ducks and geese fine with steel under 30 yards. It also depends on your choke on what you want to use. If it's a full choke, then you'll want to spend the extra $$ for something besides steel, but with a modified or improved cylinder (I use a mod), steel is fine.
 
Some here may laugh but when lead shot was ok, I usually used number 4 shot

Im not gonna laugh, i have heard from several old time waterfowlers that you want to go up 2 sizes from lead, meaning #2 is the equivalent of lead #4 for stopping power.

For the question at hand, i would rather spend 50 bucks on 50 rounds than 60 bucks on 20. Half the fun of waterfowling, to me, is all the shooting that happens, 3 bucks a bang dulls the shine on that fun. Also, if you are paying for a guided trip, i wouldnt suspect you are jumpshooting a creek or something, where 40-50 yard shots are common. You should be on dekes, and geting shots 10-30 yards, where plain ole steel will hammer them out of the sky.
 
Go out and get some Kent FastSteel, put your mod. or ic choke in, and your good to go:D I use #2's for everything, until the season gets a little latter when the geese get a thicker layer of fat, then I switch to BB's for geese only.:D

7.62mm
 
I use Kent Tungsten Matrix exclusively. It kills the hell out of ducks and Geese. I use 5s for ducks and 3s for Geese. This may be my last year using them though, I bought some at a great deal but now the price has gone up considerably.

For steel, 2s and BBs were the only way to go but now as it has become faster and smoother pellets, some guys are going back to 4s and even 6s for ducks and 4s, 3s and 2s for geese. I watched someone last year kill a ile of birds with fasteel 4s.

BUT if you are spending the money to use an outfitter, don't cheap out on shells, seriuosly, what's another $100-$200 added to your trip?
 
You need a shell with a minimum of 1300fps. I use the Remington nitro steel in #3. 3" shells. They work well in my gun. I also reload 1oz and 1 1/8oz steel for the better part of the season. Shot size will be from #4 to BB. Listen to the boys, they are giving you good advice, pattern your gun. Pick up a box of shells from 2 or three different manufacturers (Remington, Kent, Winchester...) Go with your hunting party to the range and you can all pattern your guns together. You can share the costs and you can all see what works best for your guns. It's a small investment compared to what you will be paying your outfitter.
 
Ok Guys....here's some advice that was given to me, I'm going to take the liberty and quote the smart fellow who told me this. Thanks again 6Guns!

"Your problem with steel is the same problem everyone else has. If you
listen to me, you'll do 100% better with ducks. First off, lead kills
with impact because it has weight. Steel does not have weight, but
people try to make-up for this by buying larger size bb (bbb, t's, etc)
thinking the larger the diameter the harder it will hit. Problem is
this, steel was NEVER meant to kill by weight. Steel kills with
pattern. When you use large steel bb to make-up for it's lack in
weight, you are shooting with a horrible pattern. That's why you get
broken wings and wounded ducks because the duck gets hit with a bb here
and a bb there. If you use steel shot in size 4's and even 6's you will
get a thick pattern that hits the duck with many bb's in the head and
neck. The rest of the body remains free of bbs because the #4 and #6
sizes are to lite to penatrate the feathers and fat. Take an afternoon
with sevral different size steel shotshells (2's,4's, 6's, bb, bbb,
T's), and shoot each one into a 30" circle on paper at 20yards. You
will see exactly what I'm talking about. I've told this to soo many
duck hunters., and some say I should go onto a hunting show to explain
it on t.v. And I would do it if I knew how. There's more to
know....steel travels very fast in the loads today. Some people over
leed the duck. At 10 to 15 yards as a duck flys over the decoys as he's
making a pass at a casual flight speed, all you really need to do is
place the beed just in front of his bill and follow your swing through
(matching the flieght speed of the duck as you follow through is vitally
important), and you tap the trigger. Also, place yourself in a position
where your back is at the wind if it is windy. If you can not do this,
then have the wind come at you from left or right, and adjust your leed
to componsate. NEVER shoot into the wind with steel (unless at close
range), because a strong wind against your pattern will screw it all up
for sure, because steel has not the weight to buck the wind. If you're
hunting the big waters out in the lake, get your decoys around your
boat, set holes in the decoys so a flock of ducks has a spot to land.
If not, the ducks will land outside your decoys and that will be too far
of a shot on windy lake days for steel. Some guys set their decoy
pattern in a shape of a fish hook, and place their boat at the bottom of
the hook. I mostly stay in the marshes. Either way, remember that
ducks land against the wind. If you have a nice hole in the decoys as
the ducks make their pass around you, and get into the wind, they will
go for that hole everytime. If you set decoys right, you don't really
need a to call them at all. I hope this will help you out. Don't waste
your money on Bismonth, you don't need it. Go down to a 2 3/4", 1 1/4
oz load number 4's. Use a full choke. Pattern this at 20 yards on a 30
circles (the center 15 inches of it is the actuall kill zone), and you
will see the light, my friend. I have many photos of shotguns I have
patterned, and it's all the same."
 
Makes sense. I switched to #3's and #4's a couple of years ago because of the success I had over shooting steel 1's and BBB's. Pattern density has always been overlooked in favour of more power and harder hitting loads. I will be hunting opening day (over decoys)with a Browning B2000 12 bore with 2 3/4" loads of steel Hi Velocity #4's.

cheers Darryl
 
Dang I miss duck and geese hunting in Saskatchewan.
Reading this thread made me realize that the last time I went waterfowl hunting there WAS NO lead shot ban:redface:

Gonna have to plan a trip for next year
 
Thanks for all the info guys, it's a big help. It sounds for the most part that you just have to get out there and try stuff for yourself and see what works for you.

Not from experience but what I've read it's what patterns the best with your gun and speed kills.

Where are you going to be hunting with the outfitter? How much does it cost approx.?

Greg this guy is actually really close to London. He operates out of wallaceburg. Check him out at www.fishduck.ca
 
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