Cam Pro Primer problems

I've gone through about 10000 of them now and I've only had one that needed to be struck twice. In saying that, I've only used the small pistol primers.
 
Is the gun modified? Mainspring? If not, make sure the primers are properly seated.

Everything except my modified 66 sets off CamPro SPP.
 
Correct me if I’m wrong but aren’t the campro ginex primer’s harder than most, I seem to recall people saying anything with lighter trigger springs having problems with light strikes. No problem with factory sprung guns.
 
Is the gun modified? Mainspring? If not, make sure the primers are properly seated. ...

Agreed - No problems here with the CamPro SPP in standard sprung guns. I don't have problems with CCI primers, either.

45ACP SPP brass is something I've never reloaded though.
 
The seller told that these were hard primers, but I didn’t think I would have a problem with the guns I use. I used an Les Baer Premier II for those reloads. Going to try a Colt Gold Cup and Walther GSP later to see how they do. Will report back later.
 
After extensive testing my 1911’s do not like Cam Pro primers but my Walther GSP eats them right up.

I've found them to be hard enough to use for my 7.62x39 reloads for my Howa, which are much hotter than the spec loads for the SKS.

Not one misfire and very consistent velocities.
 
I have yet to have a Ginex not go off .

2 issues most likely

Mainspring on the 1911 is too light
Or
Primers are not seated deep enough.

Been through 100K+ and not an issue
 
I could be wrong but I seem to recall some posts that said the Cam-Pro primers were a little oversized and needed a good push to seat them completely. If you're reloading on a progressive press you may need to adjust the primer punch to set the primers a little deeper so they are bottomed out.

I don't know what brand of cases you are using but I know that S&B cases definitely have tighter primer pockets that require a lot more oompf to get the primers properly seated. In fact, when I come across S&B 45 cases (large primer) I ream the primer pockets so that my LP primers seat easier. It's a bit of work but the S&B cases seem to be good quality except for the tight primer pockets and I hate to throw good cases in the trash.

I had an issue a few years ago on my Lee Loadmaster. it seated primers in 9mm cases without issue but when I switched over to 38 Special cases I started getting misfires. Most all of the rounds went off on the second hammer strike. For some reason the primer punch did not seat the primers deep enough in the 38 cases.
 
Definitely harder than Federal, but not the hardest primers out there (I've found CCI to be harder)

For a 1911 Series 70 - I've seen extended firing pins help out to get those harder-to-go-off primers work well.

This is the brand we sell and stock:
https://www.freedomventures.shop/products/dawson-19112011-extended-firing-pin



dawson-19112011-extended-firing-pin
 
I've found them to be hard enough to use for my 7.62x39 reloads for my Howa, which are much hotter than the spec loads for the SKS.

Not one misfire and very consistent velocities.

Interesting. I wonder if Ginexs vary batch by batch and by type, because it seems like people have reported completely different things. Some say they're hard, some say they're soft, some say they've had good consistency, others say velocities are all over the place.
 
I loaded some Small Ginex primers in .45 ACP cases, with CFE Pistol Powder, for a Pard who tried them in his Ruger Blackhawk, using the .45 ACP cylinder.
He had numerous squibs.
He found a great deal of unburned powder in his Ruger.
It was suggested that the Ginex primers are temperature sensitive, which seems to be our experience, as the same primer and powder combo worked fine in warmer weather.
Too confirm this, we have now tried the same loads with ammo kept warm, under our coats and had no squibs.
The loads we left out on the cold loading table produced a number of squibs.
I have also noticed a difference in "hardness" of primers in the same package as well apparent inconsistency in size when seating them, using an RCBS hand primer.
 
No, I'm pretty anal about getting a good crimp on the bullets and I looked at each one I loaded to ensure the brass was crimped in the lead bullet's crimp ring.
 
No, I'm pretty anal about getting a good crimp on the bullets and I looked at each one I loaded to ensure the brass was crimped in the lead bullet's crimp ring.

Primers can be temperature sensitive but powder is generally more temperature sensitive.

I've used the CamPro/Ginex primers in -15ish weather without issue but I don't load 45 or CFE. Personally, I don't think the primers temperature sensitivity is your main and or only issue.
 
Interesting. I can't say the primers are definitely not the problem. But based on what you say, I think the primers could still be fine, and it's just the combination with your powder charge and bullet might result in poor combustion. If the bullet starts moving too early (again, could be a combination of factors), the burn might be too slow to generate the pressure needed.

Too many variables to be sure without extensive testing. The book says that if you change one thing about your load, you should work it up from scratch again. But simply put, if the primers don't do what you want them to, then what else matters, eh?
 
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