Can any factory ammo be used to calibrate die first time?

lavino

lavino

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When I check all my American Eagle factory 223 none of them measure up to 2.20 in overall length. Most of them are barely measuring at 2.1x. These are all new factory rounds opened in new boxes. So if I need to set up the die first time it is an ideal choice? If not then what can I use to setup my die the first time? Or as long as your overall length does not exceed a certain max length then it is more or less acceptable? Is there any factory ammo that is better used for calibrate die?

Also, using different projectiles will need to re-calibrate each time I assume I notice that Campro 55gr bullet has a flatter top compare to the 55gr Hornady VMax so it would affect the overall length right?
 
All bullet manufacturers give you the COL.
All dies ,come with specific instructions,on how to set up.
Redding,RBCS,Lee and probably more ,are basically the same setup.

I usually start at bullet manufacturers suggested COL.

You can then play around with diff col, keeping in mind to do so in small increments.

You always have to watch for over pressure signs.

Also ,I believe the bullet are seated off of the ogive,so when measuring Col,from the base to the tip,you may get slight measurement difference.
This is due to slight variations in the bullets .
I don't think it matters to much, or in any event,it don't matter to me.


Someone with more knowledge,will soon chime in ,and probably tell you to go read 3 reloading manuals first :)
 
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OP, its a good idea to use a working/ reliable factory round as your reference, but try to minimize the variables like ( bullet profile). I use my Hornady bullet comparator to measure the OAL- COl, this gauge measures from the base to the Ogive. Aside from the bullet comparator you can also make use of Hornady Headspace gauge which measures from base to the Datum or the Sincalair which gets its reading from base to shoulder for your " BumP", .01-.02" for Bolt Action and .03-.06" for semi/ lever action. enjoy
 
I e found that some factory ammo,like hornady, are much shorter,than what the hornady manual has listed,for the same bullit.

I'm guessing this is due to different powder?
 
Ideally, when you start reloading, it is good to figure out how long the throat in your particular rifle is.
Seating depth may be determined by one of two factors: The length of the throat in your rifle, or the maximum length allowed by the magazine in your rifle.
I always like to start my first loads at .020" off the lands. Of course, if you have a short magazine, you may have to compromise and load to fit the magazine.
This creates a bit of a dilemma, but many rifles still shoot acceptably even with a large "jump" to the lands.
Factory ammo is manufactured so it will work in any rifle of that specific chambering, even if it has a short throat, so often it is short seated.
It is generally quite safe to use factory specs, but your rifle may shoot better with a different COL.
Regards, D.
 
As the bullet seater die indexes off the ogive, you could just use a put a new SAAMI spec loaded case in the die, screw down the seater plug until mild resistance is felt.
This would get you close to SAAMI spec jump to the lands.
Is this ok, compared to calipers and bullet comparator?
Brian is on the right track in post#2
 
Eagleye said:
Ideally, when you start reloading, it is good to figure out how long the throat in your particular rifle is.
Seating depth may be determined by one of two factors: The length of the throat in your rifle, or the maximum length allowed by the magazine in your rifle.
I always like to start my first loads at .020" off the lands. Of course, if you have a short magazine, you may have to compromise and load to fit the magazine.
This creates a bit of a dilemma, but many rifles still shoot acceptably even with a large "jump" to the lands.
Factory ammo is manufactured so it will work in any rifle of that specific chambering, even if it has a short throat, so often it is short seated.
It is generally quite safe to use factory specs, but your rifle may shoot better with a different COL.
Regards, D.
Click to expand...

...if it fits in the mag and the feeding characteristics of the rifle allow it, I always seat my bullet as close to the lands as possible... .001 off if I can...this has consistently given me the greatest accuracy, but there have been exceptions...the bullet's ogive will be the greatest determiner in this...once worked up I keep an unprimed, marked sample of each bullet/case reload combo with my die sets...
 
lavino said:
When I check all my American Eagle factory 223 none of them measure up to 2.20 in overall length. Most of them are barely measuring at 2.1x. These are all new factory rounds opened in new boxes. So if I need to set up the die first time it is an ideal choice? If not then what can I use to setup my die the first time? Or as long as your overall length does not exceed a certain max length then it is more or less acceptable? Is there any factory ammo that is better used for calibrate die?

Also, using different projectiles will need to re-calibrate each time I assume I notice that Campro 55gr bullet has a flatter top compare to the 55gr Hornady VMax so it would affect the overall length right?
Click to expand...

You did not mention the rifle you are loading for.

If it is a 5.56 AR-15, the throat will be quite deep, so the only OAL issue is what will fit the magazine. I load AR ammo to 2.250"

You should also mention the make and caliber of the rifle. That will give us an idea of the throat depth.

Factory ammo is made small, so it will fit every gun. If they were selling boots, they would all be size 13 so that most people could put them on.

But, like boots, your best bet is something that fits. If you are not restricted by magazine limits (2.250"), then seat the bullet out a bit further, so long as it does not hit the rifling.
 
Ganderite said:
You did not mention the rifle you are loading for.

If it is a 5.56 AR-15, the throat will be quite deep, so the only OAL issue is what will fit the magazine. I load AR ammo to 2.250"

You should also mention the make and caliber of the rifle. That will give us an idea of the throat depth.

Factory ammo is made small, so it will fit every gun. If they were selling boots, they would all be size 13 so that most people could put them on.

But, like boots, your best bet is something that fits. If you are not restricted by magazine limits (2.250"), then seat the bullet out a bit further, so long as it does not hit the rifling.
Click to expand...



Thanks all guys

It is for the Troy PAR 556, pump action so it is kinda like spec for AR but just not semi auto. I will collect brass from this rifle and reload for this rifle only as well.
I am also planning to buy a Mossberg MVP LC (keep it 223/556 or may be 308?) next year. There is also plans to do a 40sw gun for IPSC but way later. I will just shoot my 9mm with factory for now.

The press (a cheapo handpress, but can do everything, for now before I move up to the turret press) and die are all Lee. Bullet will be either Campro 55gr or Hornady VMax 55gr for now. I am starting read all the popular books now so I am starting from the ground up.

I am just starting so at this moment I am not going to really load it with powder and primer. Right now all these rounds I made are dummy rounds (that why I bought a box for Hornady VMAX since it has a very visible red tip and I won't get mixed up by mistake since all my real ammo are factory FMJ stuff) I am considering all these as practice for now and won't make any live rounds until I down to correct routines and consistent OAL and measures. No plan to buy powder or primer for now. Baby steps first. Will bug you guys for info when I am finally ready to add powder. Yeah it will be down the road later.

I am not loading to saving money. For performance? I don't think I have the skill and knowledge yet but might be a secondary goal. Right now, it seems like a fun hobby to do and expand my knowledge. I will still buy factory stuff for my T97 and AR since there is no way I can reload enough to feed my trigger happy finger.


Reading books is one thing but getting feedback from you guys I found is also important since people might find different ways to do something that might be insightful (of course the risk of false information and etc I know...)
 
Let's just look at some features of shooting factory ammo in a center fire rifle.
I have never taken factory ammo of the proper caliber and had it not go into a bolt action rifle and allow the bolt to close behind it, with the exception of some Shultz & Larsen creation.
It's unheard of for the caliber shown on a box of CF not to go into the rifle of the same caliber.
So the first thing we do on reloading is to make sure our new reloads go into a bolt action and have the bolt fully close behind it. When a cartridge is loaded, a figure of .020" is usually bandied about as being an accurate distance from the bullet to the rifling. So let's just make that a permanent adjustment to set the clearance from the bullet to the lands. With our hunting, plinking and general shooting, that will be all the accuracy we need, so let's just shoot and get on with life.

Cheers, Bruce
 
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