Can I shorten a heavy fluted barrel without effecting accuracy

[Markit]

I have been looking for a model 10 savage in 223 with a 20” heavy barrel for some time and have had no luck.

I found a gently used Savage 10 FCP-K in 223 that comes factory with a fluted heavy / bull barrel that is a bit too long for both my liking and needs (24” before the break)

I am inquiring of those with knowledge as to whether it is possible to shorten a heavy barrel that is fluted without damaging the barrel’s accuracy and the best way to go about it.

I have shortened a few rifle barrels (yes to legal length) using my metal lathe with a cutoff / parting tool and then used the lathe to face, crown, and in some cases thread for brakes.

There were never any adverse effects on accuracy, and in some cases accuracy increased slightly likely due to the new crown and shorter stiffer barrel, or maybe it was the bedding etc.

My concern lies with any stress doing this on a fluted barrel due to the expected chatter from the parting tool.

Would it be better to use a hacksaw to cut the barrel to slightly over the desired length of 20” and then use the lathe to face, crown, and then thread for the muzzle brake, or would I be ok just using the parting tool at low speed with lots of lube?

Any experienced smiths able to chime in with their advice?

Many thanks in advance,

Markit

 

[Evanguy]

It shouldnt chatter too much with the parting blade, just keep the parting blade as short in the holder and part close to the chuck or with a live center. And either way you are going to face it to length after cutting it.

 

[Slugz]

either way you are going to face it to length after cutting it.

^This. Just leave a few thousandths for a cleanup face pass (and if you can use a tool for facing that is more rigid than a part off to help ensure no chatter)

 

[Markit]

Thanks all for the advice

 

[marshall]

What about a scout rifle in 223 cal.?

 

[matt bradley]

I have always been told never cut a barrel with a parting tool, Cut it close to length and then face with lathe.

 

[gstprecision]

I generally cut with a band saw (a hacksaw works if you dont have a bandsaw) to about 1/8”-1/4” of desire length then face and crown.

For the accuracy part it is very important to dial in the barrel on the groove or land as the exterior is probably not concentric to the bore. If you don’t do that your brake will be offset and possibly the bullets hit it. I have seen some after cutting being eccentric by as much as 0.040”!

 

[Shooter1971]

I have been told not to use a parting tool. I believe it is because the pressure of the tool can do some wonky things to the bore diameter and ruin accuracy. Saw cut then crown. I have personally seen a muzzle bore diameter open up when threaded for a brake with large cuts taken.