cannelure tool

fat tony

fat tony

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I tried some .30/30 bullets in some .30/06 loads a while back. I liked it but the cannelure was too far towards the front of the bullet. These were 170 grain soft pt. Strange, but when I tried seating them to the cannelure, they would 'pop' all the way into the case. A bit strange. I am not sure what caused that, there might have been a bit of backlash in my setup, that is the only culprit I can think of.

The neck is much shorter on the .30/06 of course.

I heard of reloaders breaking the speed limit with jacketed .30/30 bullets in the .30/06. Elmer Kieth for one experimented with the idea. From what I have seen on various forums reloaders are pushing them no more than around 2600 fps or just under 800 metres per second.

I had one round that got 'stubbed' on the front edge of the magazine box on the .30/06, a BSA sporter. The bullet telescoped into the case & the powder charge made a hell of a mess. I had to take the gun off the firing line for the day as the locking lug area needed a good cleaning.Quite a mess it was.

Are there any cheaper work arounds than purchasing a big fancy cannelure tool? I was thinking of trying out a small pipe cutter with a dull cutting wheel.

The problem with the pipe cutter is the problem the bullet is relatively short, so there is no way to transmit the torque to the bullet while it is in the cutter.

All the best.
 
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use a lee factory crimp die, the way it works you don't need a cannelure on the bullet.
If you still think that you need or want a cannelure on your bullet PM me, I have a manual and a power machine collecting dust
 
fat tony said:
Wow there is some extreme truther nonsense out there about the Lee Factory Crimp Die. Are ppl. that hard up for a hobby?
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Not sure what you are talking about. Maybe qualify that with a real statement. The Lee Factory Crimp die can and will apply a crimp anywhere from absolutely none to about 100 thou or so if you set it up that way. Enough that if you pull the bullet , including jacketed bullets, it is physically deformed with a significant depression around the bullet at the crimp location. While I don't use them in most of my bottleneck reloading, I still find a use for them with a light to moderate crimp depending on the bullet, with my 357, 44, 30-30, and 45-70 when I do not seat at, or there is no cannelure. They do exactly what Lee says they will do.
 
I saw some garbage on a forum. Please don't put words in my mouth.

rick357 said:
Not sure what you are talking about. Maybe qualify that with a real statement. The Lee Factory Crimp die can and will apply a crimp anywhere from absolutely none to about 100 thou or so if you set it up that way. Enough that if you pull the bullet , including jacketed bullets, it is physically deformed with a significant depression around the bullet at the crimp location. While I don't use them in most of my bottleneck reloading, I still find a use for them with a light to moderate crimp depending on the bullet, with my 357, 44, 30-30, and 45-70 when I do not seat at, or there is no cannelure. They do exactly what Lee says they will do.
Click to expand...
 
fat tony said:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494923

Since rick357 asked me to "explain yourself, young man." Here is the thread in question above. Some very 'earth is flat' comments in the thread in question. No, frankenmauser is not me sir.
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OK, now I see where you are coming from. That was, uh, 'interesting' reading. You maybe should have posted that along with your first comment. A statement out of the blue like that with no reference is pointless.
 
I bought a hand cranked cannelure tool from Corbin, they are inexpensive and make a Hornady style cannelure. There is a bit of a learning curve to get uniform results, but it doesn't take that long.
 
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