Can't get the Loadmaster i just bought from you folks to deprime?

G

grimblyd

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Hi Ray. Sent you an email with some pictures.
I have the reloader all set up, and everything works fine, except it won't deprime.

After I tried a half dozen casings, I went to the Lee website and reviewed the video on setting the die. I tried resetting it, but no change in the results.

help!


Thanks

Dan
 
grimblyd said:
Hi Ray. Sent you an email with some pictures.
I have the reloader all set up, and everything works fine, except it won't deprime.

After I tried a half dozen casings, I went to the Lee website and reviewed the video on setting the die. I tried resetting it, but no change in the results.

help!


Thanks

Dan
Click to expand...
Hi Dan,
I've never used that model. I've sent your email to Lee for an answer but hopefully someone on CGN will have a tip for us.
Ramon
 
grimblyd,

I had to reset my de-priming pin lower in the die after adjusting the die for sizing, and make sure you're using the full stroke of the ram, had that issue too while setting my dies. No i just have to figure out why mine won't feed primers for priming. Hope that helps.
 
Rifle brass or pistol? If its rifle are the primer pockets crimped? You will see three little marks around the perimeter of the primer. They can be stubborn at times. Also if the primers are lacquered, you will see a red or green or some colour around the primer, they can also be a bit tough to shove out. Also, make sure they are Boxer primed and not Berdan. Boxer has one single flash hole. Berdan has two smaller ones, and has to be deprimed by other means

If pistol there isn't really too much that can go wrong. Try seating your decaping pin down as far as it can go and see.
 
It is 9mm pistol. The decapping die is set as low as possible. I haven't adjusted the decapping pin yet, as I'm not sure how to do that and was a bit hesitant as I can't find any videos or info on actual adjustment of the decapping pin length. Now that I know it can be done, I will try that today. It is not my first time reloading, but I am not overly experienced at it. My last reloader was a Dillon square deal 25 years ago, and I used it for .45 ACP.
I have no idea what casing box primered means, but thanks. And yes, it should be very simple. The die is set as low as I can set it. The ram stops against the die in it's travel. I am fully actuating the ram.

I think I covered all of that.

Thanks!

Dan
 
Remove the die frpm the press.

Use two wrenches to loosen the mandrel which holds the decapping pin in the FL sizing/decapping die.

Adjust the protrusion of the pin so that it is approximately 1/4-3/8 of an inch below the die. Do not let the thick part of the pin protrude below the edge of the die.

Tighten the mandrel very firmly.

Hope this helps.
 
he means BOXER PRIMED- look down the mouth of your brass and see if there's one or 2 flash holes- if there's 2, ( which happens with surplus 9mm esp European, it is NOT reloadable In the way we think normally- if there's only one you're gtg and the guy that posted that is confused- you want BOXER PRIMED with the single flashole, not BERDAN WITH 2 - personally I believe all you have to do is reset your depth on your decapping stem ie deeper and if it's a LEE-tighten the heck out of the nuts-we're talking 2 wrenches tight- has NOTHING to do with the loadmaster
 
Excellent. Thanks Redruns and T-star! I couldn't figure out how to post a picture, but if I had, you would see the brass with primer about half to 3/4 way out but still stuck. I think in hindsight my question to Ray (and CGN) should have been 'is the decap pin adjustable in length?'.
I will adjust the pin length and be in business. I think the Dillon square deal B spoiled me. This reloader is much more hands on. I like that though as it forces me to learn instead of just pulling the handle like a trained monkey! haha!. It is my plan to expand in to reloading rifle shells with this press once my knowledge level becomes much higher.

Really appreciate all the input folks. I'll make a quick post later if I am successful.

And thanks Ray, sorry I probably should have posted this in the reload section. Will next time.

Dan
 
I set my pin to the bottom of die- this something that is UNVERSAL to all die sets so whoever set the dies for your square deal was JUST PLAIN LUCKY or set it up BEFORE sending it out- I've decapped with nothing more than a finishing nail= as far as rile cartridges go MAKE SURE YOU LUBE FIRST- otherwise you'll be amongst the THOUSNADS with " shell stuck in die - ie how do I get it out
 
I use the universal decapper. I deprime brass that hasn't been cleaned and isn't lubed. I ise carbide dies and don't lube my cases when reloading (pistol). I set my decapping pin depth just below the bottom of the die. Adjust until you get enough depth to fully push the primer out. Be careful of s&b 9mm. I've found that the flash holes are sometimes off center, which can lead to a bent decapping pin.
 
dnd brass too-undersize flasholes will pull the istol pin on a lee die right out- I put in a 223 decapper which is all one piece- but you're losing a space with the uniuversal decapper which in my opinion is GIMMICK
 
Lee dies are designed with a split, tapered thread collet to hold the decapping pin. If it's loose, it will travel upward instead of pushing the primer out. It's designed that way to help prevent pin breakage.
 
grimblyd said:
Fixed. Did my first run, had a few issues, but got in to a bit of a rhythm and cranked out 143 rounds. Not terrible for a first run I think, it will get better now that I have everything set up.
Click to expand...

Here's a tip. Buy a Lee universal decapping die (very cheap and NOT a gimmick) and put it in station one. Then put the carbide size die WITH THE DECAPPING ROD REMOVED in station two where the case is primed. The die does a good job of centering and holding the case firmly and eliminates a lot of the priming problems some people have with the Loadmaster. I did this and if you keep the priming tray and chute clean the system is very reliable.
 
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