Carl-Gustav

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burnt45

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To start, sorry but I don't have pics... I'll try to get some.

I was looking at some milsurps the other day and couldn't come up with an exact match on one of them:
It's a Carl-Gustav 1910(stamped on top of chamber), straight-stocked, in 6.5mm, with a mile-long barrel(maybe 28" or so) with an exterior thread at the muzzle. Metal and interior parts are very clean. It's missing the front wood bits, but at least it's not cut.

What can you tell me about it? and what's it worth?

Thanks!
 
That sounds like a model 96 mauser in 6.5x55 swedish. Great rifles famous for their smooth action and beautiful build quality. Value?? Depends on condition mostly but since there are no pics I can't be of much help there.
 
Threaded muzzle

The threads on the end of the muzzle are for a blank firing attachment. These are occasionally available on e-bay, but NEVER, EVER, fire a live round through one.

The Swedes used a wooden bullet for training, and there is a splitter inside the Blank Firing Attachment to break up the wooden bullet when fired.

There are aftermarket threaded rings that will screw onto the muzzle, protecting the threads, and giving a smoother appearance.

If there is a stock disk inletted into the stock, it will tell you the actual bore diameter and condition of the barrel.

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burnt45 said:
..Metal and interior parts are very clean. It's missing the front wood bits, but at least it's not cut.

What can you tell me about it? and what's it worth?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Maybe $100-150.

Replace the stock and you'll have a mismatched rifle worth about $250. Stocks and handguards go for about $75.
 
Finally, pics:
What's all the stuff on the disc mean?
Oh yeah, the barrel is 29.5" long!

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burnt45 said:
Finally, pics:
What's all the stuff on the disc mean?
Click to expand...

See that hole on top of the "2" on the most narrow disc? :)

It means the bore is moderately worn - "3" being serviceable, and "1" being only slightly worn. If there's no hole? That indicates "almost new". ;)

"3" is plenty accurate as a bore-level, so having a "2" is not bad at all. :yingyang:

On the larger slice of the disc, because there there is no number in the space between the words Overslag and Str., the rifle ought to "shoot to point of aim" with the Swedish spitzer-round.

As to the other slice of the disc, I dunno...:evil:
 
cyclone said:
See that hole on top of the "2"? :)

It means the bore is moderately worn - "3" being serviceable, and "1" being only slightly worn. If there's no hole? That indicates "almost new". ;)

"3" is plenty accurate as a bore-level, so having a "2" is not bad at all. :yingyang:
Click to expand...

cyclone: what does the other set of numbers mean... there's a triangle stamp above that 2 as well?
 
bore diameter

burnt45 said:
cyclone: what does the other set of numbers mean... there's a triangle stamp above that 2 as well?
Click to expand...

It means that your rifling lands were gauaged at .262 inches. They start off at .259. That is the 9 in that portion of the triangle, and they go upwards from there such as .260, .261, .262, .263 diameter and so on.

Your disk indicates a slight bit of bore wear (Condition 2) and a barrel with a rifling land diameter of .262, which is quite good.

Do not panic because the bullet diameter is usually .265 (6.5mm) because that is a bore (groove) diameter, not the land diameter. It should be quite safe to shoot if it is in good condition, matching bolt, etc., but it is best to have a gunsmith check the headspace.

Carl Gustav is the Swedish State Arms Factory. The first M-94 and M-96 rifles were made by Mauser, but the Swedes started producing their own. Only Carl Gustav made actions until about 1940, at which point Husqvarna made some military actions until 1944. Early Husqvarna sporting rifles and others such as Stiga used Carl Gustav actions (as did other Swedish gun makers such as Falun). Husqvarna used some of their military type actions for sporters, but about 1945 changed the action to a solid left side wall with no thumb cut, until about 1950, when they went to the 1600 series, similar to the 98 Mauser action.

Apparently the steel formula for the Swedish M-94/M-96/M-38 actions never changed, so a 1910 one was made from a similar steel as a 1945 one. They are regarded as not quite as strong as the Mauser 98 action, but are plenty strong for the 6.5x55 cartridge they were designed for.

In Sweden, the 6.5x55 is considered as a cartridge suitable for hunting up to an Alg (known as a Moose here).
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Edit: I think buffdog wrote a far better explanation, while I was writing what follows below!

burnt45 said:
cyclone: what does the other set of numbers mean... there's a triangle stamp above that 2 as well?
Click to expand...

I think I may have updated my post above before you asked!...:dancingbanana:

BTW, this is a great resource page (I think Chuck Hawks used it, too!) :D :

http://dutchman.rebooty.com/disc.html

I always have trouble with the middle-sized slice (notice how I say this as though I'm somehow knowledgeable! :p ), but what I do know is that the middle-sized wedge can sometimes have 2 sets of 3 digits in addition to the numbers seen on your disc, and these are supposed to indicate aspects of the bore dimensions.

I hope this helps! ;)

buffdog said:
It means that your rifling lands were gauaged at .262 inches. They start off at .259. That is the 9 in that portion of the triangle, and they go upwards from there such as .260, .261, .262, .263 diameter and so on.

Your disk indicates a slight bit of bore wear (Condition 2) and a barrel with a rifling land diameter of .262, which is quite good.
Click to expand...

Okay, I "gotta ask" - how'd you see that, from what was showing in the disc in the picture?...:redface:
 
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I wouldn't trust the disc if the stock S/N does not match the receiver S/N.... And, a lot of those rifles had the discs removed when sold - the disc then may or may not indicate the real bore condition....
 
cyclone said:
Okay, I "gotta ask" - how'd you see that, from what was showing in the disc in the picture?...
Click to expand...

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cyclone said:
I always have trouble with the middle-sized slice (notice how I say this as though I'm somehow knowledgeable! ), but what I do know is that the middle-sized wedge can sometimes have 2 sets of 3 digits in addition to the numbers seen on your disc, and these are supposed to indicate aspects of the bore dimensions.
Click to expand...

I've read that some think it's the groove diameter and the land diameter. I believe it to be the bore diameter, but with a larger range. Don't have any concrete evidence to say one way or the other.

(E) :cool:
 
buffdog said:
It means that your rifling lands were gauaged at .262 inches. They start off at .259. That is the 9 in that portion of the triangle, and they go upwards from there such as .260, .261, .262, .263 diameter and so on.

Your disk indicates a slight bit of bore wear (Condition 2) and a barrel with a rifling land diameter of .262, which is quite good.
Do not panic because the bullet diameter is usually .265 (6.5mm) because that is a bore (groove) diameter, not the land diameter. It should be quite safe to shoot if it is in good condition, matching bolt, etc., but it is best to have a gunsmith check the headspace.

.
Click to expand...


not so sure about your measurement...Swedish rifles are in metric...
check out this site:

http://dutchman.rebooty.com/disc.html

according to this information, the bore diametre is 6.52 mm, and in # 2 condition.
 
There are two different one (single) screw discs; one "early" and one "late". Above, it's an '"early" one; "Torped(am) Överslag" means pointed bullet held over (the aiming point), so, this rifle "supposedly" had it's sights set for the M/41 Torped (Boat tail, spitzer) bullet.
1 Streck is about 0.1m @ 100m - if the sights were regulated, on the older discs you are supposed to have the number of str (0,1,2) stamped on the empty space. This will tell high high the point of impact will be compared to the point of aim.
When there's nothing stamped between "Overslag and Str", we can deduct the sights were not regulated yet (rifle in storage?)

The late discs follows the same idea but have 6.51 then 2 -3 - 4 -5 -6 -7 -8 -9 and below 6.46 7 - 8 - 9 - 0 instead of numbers from 2 to 5 then below 9 - 0 -1.

The "Bore size" on the early discs starts at 6.49mm and ends up at 6.55mm.
 
Quote
Okay, I "gotta ask" - how'd you see that, from what was showing in the disc in the picture?...:redface:[/QUOTE]


A pair of 69 year old eyes, a magnifying glass, standing close to the computer screen, and an old pair of 20 power Japanese Navy Battleship binoculars that I use for looking at a 32 year old blonde divorcee three houses away, through her bathroom window when she takes a shower.


O.K. I'll defer to BARIBAL on the bore diameter. The book I refered to was American. Maybe that explains it!
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The disc means nothing. They can easily be swapped out, and even if it is original to the gun, there's no way of knowing how much it was shot since the disc was marked.

If you want to know your bore condition, look down the barrel, and then slug it.
 
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