Case head separation 303 Brit on a P14

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I recently acquired a 1916 ERA sporterized P14 (though there is a "W" stamped under the barrel but it has a matching serial). I have had major problems with my No.1 Mk.3 Enfield with case head stretching and case head separations since it has a looser than normal chamber (and bore but that's unrelated). I thought the problem would go away when reloading for the P14 since using a P14 instead of an Enfield is the "solution" to 303 case head separation a lot of places I looked. The P14 I have causes even greater stretching than my super loose Enfield or any of my friends Enfields. Every single brand new RP case I fired through it have very prominent ridges around them near the base. Normally new RP cases in my Enfield can withstand 2-3 firings before getting this bad and then start separating around firing 4-5 (that was before I started using the o-ring trick).

The load is:
180gr Sierra SP .312"
36gr H4895
CCI LRP
New factory RP brass

The primers are also popping out a couple thou after firing which makes me think head space possibly? The bolt holds onto the cases tight and they don't appear to be unsupported by the bolt head at any point.
 
Radial expansion at the base of the cartridge is a normal function of cartridge brass. Exacerbating any NORMAL expansion here are the larger chambers preferred by the British, differences between SAAMI specs and MilSpec specs for the cartridge and the differences in manufacturing tolerances between manufacturers.

That actually is quite a low-pressure load you are using, friend: very close to my own pet load, which also is very low-pressure.

Primers are coming back because the case ISN'T coming back; it is adhering to the walls of the chamber, balanced on the tip of the firing-pin, until pressures have built. But the rear end of the cartridge comes back at peak pressure anyway, pushing the primer ONTO the firing-pin and deepening the original dimple from when it fired. As it does this, the case STRETCHES, right in the Web (the junction between the Head and the Tube of the casing). This is where it separates.

Actually, I rather think that your rifle doesn't have much of a headspace problem at all, if any. Under these conditions, I have seen brass fail on the original firing, given that the rifle has enough headspace.... and the brass is hard enough.

Brass further lengthens when it is reloaded. The sizing die squishes it back to something close to original size, pushing any excess FORWARD. The die then brings the SHOULDER back to its original point (or reasonably close to it) and any brass from the lengthening process is pushed farther forward...... into the NECK. Further, some makes of dies can lengthen brass most alarmingly, just through expander-ball drag through the case-neck. A certain amount occurs with most dies, but, once in a while, you will come across a set with a badly-undersized neck and, with these dies, your brass lengthens very quickly and actually lengthens MORE in the sizing process than it does in the firing. I have a set of dies such as this, and my solution to the problem is to lube the inside of the case-neck on each reloading BEFORE sizing the cases. It is an extra step, but I am loading for accuracy. If I were loading for a Vickers or a Bren, I REALLY think I would avoid the step!

If I were you, I would solve the problem thoroughly, all at once. Do ALL of your initial firings with Ed's Famous O-Rings (or pony-tail ties) to reduce any stretch from ACTUAL headspace. Done with a NORMAL load, this will give you brass which headspaces on the SHOULDER rather than on the rim, doing away with ANY stretch from Rifle headspace. With LIGHT loads, use the O-rings 2 or 3 times with each casing to assure that it is stopping on the Shoulder rather than on the Rim. Following this, you will have to keep your brass segregated by Rifle or you could have feed/extraction problems if your brass gets mixed up. Then, when reloading, use the Lee COLLET DIE. This die does NOT size the case-body, nor does it stretch the necks. This will reduce neck stretch to an absolute minimum, this being the amount which it ACTUALLY stretches as a result of firing. Again, using the Collet Die, you MUST segregate your brass by Rifle.

Being that brass fired in a generous military chamber has a tendency to REDUCE LENGTH on first firing and not get it all back until third or fourth firing, sometimes not even then. I have a box of brass here for my HMS CANADA Ross, brass which is treated gently and fired with a load a grain UNDER yours (the 30-1/2 barrel of the Ross makes up the velocity). This brass has fifteen firings on it and still does not gauge long enough to require trimming; in fact, 19 of the 20 cases still are UNDER the 2.222" military Max length. This is 1942 Defence Industries brass, BTW.

So: lube the brass case-neck on the inside if using a regular die, a Collet Die is VASTLY preferable..... and ALWAYS use Ed's Famous O-Rings until your brass is thoroughly formed to YOUR CHAMBER and stopping on the SHOULDER rather than on the rim.

Give it a try.

One thing for sure, your wallet will notice because you will STOP buying brass!

Hope this helps.
 
Prominent ridges around the base form at the transition point between the solid head and the sidewall of the case.
It forms regardless of headspace.
You could section a few cases, see if there are incipient separations. I find this more useful than feeling with a probe.
The expansion ring will be particularly prominent if the casehead is on the small side of the specs.
By all means, use the o-rings, and neck size.
It might be worth your while to have the actual headspace checked with gauges.
 
A small o-ring is put on the case just in front of the rim. It holds the casehead back against the boltface.
 
For some reason I had it in my head that the o-ring trick wouldn't work for a P14 for some reason, not sure why. Now that I think about it, it doesn't make sense for it to not work.

I do try to only neck size brass when I can and will have to segregate my brass (first time having two rifles in the same calibre other than 22's.) I have some cast bullet loads to test so that should work for sizing the brass (1700-2200fps with 185gr cast, gas checked.) Also bought some 85gr Hornady XTP 32 cal (.312") pistol bullets for plinking that may work.

Thanks for the info! I knew I could get a good response here :D
 
The limiting factor to using the O-ring trick is the type of CARTRIDGE being used.

If the Cartridge is RIMMED, then the trick will work well.

If the Cartridge is the Rimless type, then it doesn't work at all.

As to Semi-Rimmed, I haven't tried itYET..... but my Arisaka needs more brass and I have this pile of .220 Swift, so......

........ let you know in the Spring!
 
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