I'm just starting reloading my .308 brass. The brass is from my Ruger M77heavy barrel, and my buddy's BAR. The manuals show factory case length of 2.015. Almost all the once fired brass is less, coming in between 2.008 and 2.015. Should I trim all the cases to a consistent length so that the crimping is uniform from round to round? I don't know if 7 - 2 thou makes a diff, but I don't want to take any chances. Is there a minimum neck length? Any input would be appreciated. I'm using IMR4320, and I'm working up loads for Sierra 165gr.BTSP Spitzers (#2145) which my rifle LOVES and has been good deer load for me, and Hornady 190gr BTSP (#3085) as a moose and/or bear load. I used to reload with my buddy who has since moved, and now I'm loading solo, so I'm not a total newb, but I would like feedback from the really experienced guys out there. I also have some Nosler Fail Safe 165gr HP Flat Base Moly coated rounds for which I have to dig up load data.
Case length consistency.
- Thread starter LawrenceN
- Start date
sundance1972
Regular
- Location
- duncan b.c.
Probably the most important thing i was taught about reloading is to keep everything within the tightest tolerances posibble, especially my brass. I trim every piece 5 thou under (+- one thou) max length, then sort by brand and weight. All of my rifles are bolt action, so I can't offer any advice on crimping as i don't need to do it.
If you have some bad groups at the range, at least you know you can rule out the brass first, then start looking at the other components, bullets, powder charge, etc.
If you have some bad groups at the range, at least you know you can rule out the brass first, then start looking at the other components, bullets, powder charge, etc.
First off, I'm wondering why you are planning on crimping your 308 reloaded cartridges?
You ask, "Is there a minimum length?" Well, yes, the neck has to be long enough to securely hold the bullet.
A great many of us have sized down 30-06 brass to 270. The brass ends up about .100" shorter than the length given for a 270. This is no problem, at all. We just load and shoot them. A 270 grows quite well with shooting, so eventually, they get as long as they were supposed to be.
You ask, "Is there a minimum length?" Well, yes, the neck has to be long enough to securely hold the bullet.
A great many of us have sized down 30-06 brass to 270. The brass ends up about .100" shorter than the length given for a 270. This is no problem, at all. We just load and shoot them. A 270 grows quite well with shooting, so eventually, they get as long as they were supposed to be.
just having some fun
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
size all your brass first them measure and trim and trim to trim length / fire it several time till it reaches max length and trim
get a 50r ammo case and mark and use it only for one rifle using that brass til it's reached the end of its life ( bolt gun you should be able to neck size or size so you do not push back the shoulder)
you do not need to crimp unless for a tube magazine (and crimping is more working the brass and will cause splits)
get a 50r ammo case and mark and use it only for one rifle using that brass til it's reached the end of its life ( bolt gun you should be able to neck size or size so you do not push back the shoulder)
you do not need to crimp unless for a tube magazine (and crimping is more working the brass and will cause splits)
I didn't see any difference in my 308 reloads trimmed to 1.998" vs 2.004".
Weight sorting of the brass calls for uniform trimming of the batch, that's all.
Uniform trimming also helps with consistent crimping if needed (semi-auto?).
As long as you have the same neck tension and don't exceed the max OAL of brass (neck jamming > overpressure), you're fine.
s>
Weight sorting of the brass calls for uniform trimming of the batch, that's all.
Uniform trimming also helps with consistent crimping if needed (semi-auto?).
As long as you have the same neck tension and don't exceed the max OAL of brass (neck jamming > overpressure), you're fine.
s>
