Case Lube

BobSock

BobSock

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I have a Lee Loader and was wondering if I could use hoppe's 9 lubricating oil for a case lube?

I couldn't find any lanolin locally as it seems to be recommended but I guessing hoppe's should work fine. Never tried it before so just looking for some advice.
 
It would probably work, but I think oil would be a bit messy. This is assuming you are talking about Hoppe's oil and not the cleaning solvent.

Dillon case lube works well; it's lanolin in alcohol. I just throw the brass in a plastic bag, squirt one shot of lube inside, and shake it around.

Another good option is Kiwi neutral shoe polish. Just smear a thin film on the case body with your finger.
 
BobSock said:
I have a Lee Loader and was wondering if I could use hoppe's 9 lubricating oil for a case lube?

I couldn't find any lanolin locally as it seems to be recommended but I guessing hoppe's should work fine. Never tried it before so just looking for some advice.
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I don't think oil will work. Likely stick your cases in the die. Anhydrous lanolin usually available at drug store pharmacy. (ask druggist)

NormB
 
I've seen STP ( automotive) used as a sizing lube , I use imperial sizing wax. I think gun oil will not work so good as it is not for high pressure situations.
 
You can’t use oil as it will contaminate power and kill primers. Back in the day, before action proving dummies could be purchased, people use oil for making them. They would drill a hole in a cartridge case, tap out the powder and put some oil in the case. When left for a couple of hours the oil rendered the priming mixture in the primer useless. I believe today’s primers are treated with lacquers to combat oils but I would bet (actually I know as I made a couple last week) oil will still effect a great many of the primers it comes into contact with.

I spray Dillon Lube on cases while they are in a shoe box and shake them about to spread the lube. Works great and is cheap. You will get many thousands of rounds of brass cases lubed from one bottle of Dillon Case lube. If you find the cases tacky after loading, you can put a small amount of lighter fluid on a rag (Outside and away from spark or flame of Course) and wipe off the residual lube.

I would not advise using oil for lubing cases; especially when the correct product can be purchased so cheaply.
 
Alright, I will definitely not be using hoppe's 9 lubricating oil. :redface:


NormB said:
I don't think oil will work. Likely stick your cases in the die. Anhydrous lanolin usually available at drug store pharmacy. (ask druggist)
Click to expand...

I tried asking a pharmacist if they had any pure lanolin and the places I tried said that they didn't. I'll try again and see if there is a product that contains a high percentage or "anhydrous lanolin".


heavyBullet said:
as in the "classic lee loader", the one you use a hammer with ??? if so, and its for rifle ammo, you would not need lube.
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This is the loader I'm using. It's for .303 British. So lube is not needed? Really don't want it stuck in the die.
 
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The reason lube is not needed for those pound-m-in-and-pound-m-out reloading tools, is because this tool only neck sizes them. If it is a Lee Enfield you have, that is a perfect way to do it.
Don't worry, you won't stick a case.
 
I have loaded 308 and 30-06 with a classic Lee Loader and a hammer, and it makes just as good ammo as my press.. Just remember that you have to use fireformed brass, and that eventually you will need something to full length size your brass, like a press or even just a hand press. Having a scale is a good idea also.
 
I got started that way too. It is a loooong slippery slope. Welcome to the club.


BTW, I use a round plastic pail (4 liter icecream) with a lid. Put brass in pail (half full) smear a one inch worm of Lee lubricant (comes in a toothpaste tube) around the inside of the exposed pail walls, then swirl brass in pail for 30 seconds. Lubricates cases with a tiny dab in the case mouth, too, so expander button runs smooth.

lubebrass.jpg


lubebrass1.jpg
 
Over the years I've used or tried a number of products. Started out with one made by Lyman, it wasn't bad but one of the worst I tried was RCBS. I like just about all RCBS products but their case lube is the exception to the rule. I found it to be very sticky and hard to wipe off or remove. Sticks like s**t to a blanket.

The one I found to be the cream of the crop, second to none, is Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Works well, easy to apply, remove and a little goes a long way. In some of the tougher case forming operations is where it really shines.

For me, in my opinion, a second choice would be Unique Case Lube made by Hornady. Almost as good and a little more cost effective.
 
Kiwi Mink Oil (not shoe polish) makes an OK case lube. My favorite 'home brew' is a 50/50 mixture of anhydrous lanolin and castor oil. The latter is suitable for case forming as well as brass resizing.
 
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