Case prepping steps?

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huntingfish

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Howdy,
Not a reloader yet...thinking of maybe taking the plunge eventually. I'm still fuzzy about the steps needed to prep the cases before actually reloading them and plugging them with a bullet. Seems like a rather time consuming process. A process that's highly subjective. I'm more of a defined procedure kind of guy, aka (probably completely bogus, but just to give you an idea): Measure neck thickness, if it's thinner than 0.05" from original brass sizes, discard. Measure case width, if bigger than 0.01" than caliber size, discard, etc, etc...

Remove spent primer.
I guess you always have to clean the cases first and foremost in order to inspect them.
Maybe un-oil them (sorry, brain fart, can't think of a better word)
Then check the cases for cracks
Measure a couple of things: Neck (size and length?), case sizing (at multiple points?)
Resize (this part is very fuzzy, don't quite understand what part of the 50th anniversary Lee kit allows me to do what and if I'd need to purchase anything else right away to start reloading) whatever needs resizing.
Inspect primer pocket (what would I look for?)

Anything else that needs to be done to the cases before reloading?

I guess another connex question is: What is your personnal regiment when prepping your cases?

Finally, how often can you reload a brass? Let's say you buy some federal brass (seems like they are on the cheaper side of things), could you reload them 4-5 times?

Thanks!

Fish
 
Lots of ways of doing case prep, depends on what you are reloading.
As an example, I reload .308 on a single state press and my steps are (assuming no military crimp);
Tumble the dirty brass
Apply case lube of your choice (I use Hornady one shot)
Decap, resize
Check case length, trim to 2.005"
Chamfer, deburr case (I use the Lyman case prep tool)
Clean primer pocket (primer pocket uniformer) or brush
Tumble again,
My Federal and Hornady cases last at least 10 reloads but this is largely dependent on calibre, case, powder load, firearm, etc.
 
Btw, you handle the brass a lot when you single stage, and you check everything all the time such as cracks, bulges, headspace, any abnormality etc. if you are really into accuracy, you also turn the necks for uniformity and sort your loads by head stamp, you will likely only neck size. Precision shooters will also use Lapua or Nosler brass from what I see.
All of it sounds complicated but easy when you do it a few times, it is time consuming but I enjoy it so no problem.
 
Tumble, inspect, lube, deprime and resize. Assorted primer pocket work to uniform clean and remove any crimps or oddness. Measure case length and trim those that need it. Chamfer case mouths insisde and out. Re tumble if desired. Check primer holes for tumbling media, especially in Berdan primed cases.
 
two come to mind...

lyman 49th edition and "the ABC's of Reloading"

bullet brands are not that important, there are a few exceptions but you can back up you book knowledge with your google-foo

honestly...for your basic plinking ammo you can be up and running in twenty minutes
 
those two are great especially the ABC's of.

I also found the latest Lee manual VERY good. I basically read it right thru, only skimming thru the black powder section.
 
huntingfish said:
I see. If I plan on using a particular brand of bullets (should I reload), should I pick up their manuals (Nosler partition in this case)?
Click to expand...

No harm in using a Nosler manual however the steps are generic and have nothing to do with a particular brand of bullet. I would choose the manual more on the clarity of the instructions and the range of load recipes it provides. You should get a number of manuals in any event. You will find that there are significant differences in min and max loads between the manuals and it is helpful to cross reference them.

I'm with yomamma on this. Don't overthink it at first - focus on safety. Start with good technique and a good process (see Chas59's post) then as you stretch out to longer ranges or try to tighten your groups, you can refine your approach (i.e. messing with neck tension, case weight/volume, primer type, annealing, etc.). I think that you'll be surprised how good your ammo will be even with the basics nailed. Using a load (powder type, charge weight, bullet design/weight and OAL) your rifle likes is the most important factor for accuracy. The other details are second-order or tertiary factors.
 
Hopefully not overstepping any bounds here, but there's an awesome CGN'er on the Reloading EE, with a bunch of reloading manuals in PDF form that he's giving away for free.

Check out THIS post.
 
Reloading for rifle has a few more steps. Straight walled pistol cartridges are pretty straight forward and simple.

If reloading pistol cartridges in volume, go with a progressive press.
If reloading for rifle (hunting, bench rest, etc..) a singe stage is more than enough.
If reloading for high volume rifle (AR, M305), a progressive is again better.

What's important for bullets is the a) construction (cast, plated, FMJ) and, b) weight. Brands are not that important (if at all). Once you know the weight and the construction, you then look up how much of a given powder to start with and how much you can safely use at the maximum. You also get an idea of what powders preform best with the type and weight of bullet on average (some manuals may mention this); the final arbitrator will be your specific firearm
 
+1 on the read reloading manuals....I really liked Lee's manual but started with Lyman's. If you like this stuff reading about it won't be a 'chore'.

BUT to answer your question:
For rifle:
tumble
Lube
Size decap
chamfer
seat primers
powder
seat bullet
crimp
enjoy!
 
For new brass....
Full length size.
Trim.
Load.

For brass I have fired in a rifle...
Tumble clean.
Neck size.
Trim.
Load.

For once fired brass from other guns...
Tumble clean.
Full length size.
Inspect carefully for split necks, secondary expansion rings, loose primer pockets, and other damage.
Trim.
Load.

Way more intensive prep can be done, but unless you are target shooting at 1000 yards it's probably not worth it.
 
I differ from most.

Decap in a decapping die in a press dedicated to this
Tumble (usually wet tumble with SS pins)
inspect (I inspect brass at each stage from here on)
uniform primer pockets
Deburr and uniform flash hole if first time reload
size (neck or FL depending on use) I now use Lee collet dies a lot
Trim if required (I only trim .001" under max length)
Chamfer
Prime (hand primer) and check primer seated depth
Add powder (each weighed to a tenth)
seat bullet.


Naturally there is measuring to be done along the way, but that's my basic steps to make more ammo!
 
My routine:

Pistol-only:
- Pick the mud out of them (if required)
- Tumble Clean (I wet tumble with Stainless Steel pins, then dry)
- Examine heads for crimped primers. All crimped primers get deprimed, and primer pocket reamed.
- Reload in a progressive press (resize on a carbide die, re-prime, fill, bullet seat, crimp, eject. Visually verify powder in each before applying projectile, but measure amount every 50 or so. Measure length every 50).

Rifle-only:
- Pick the mud out of them (if required)
- Tumble Clean (I wet tumble with Stainless Steel pins, then dry)
- Lube and full-length resize
- Tumble and dry again
- Resize
- Primer Pocket - inspect for crimp, if so, ream
- If bulk-reloading for plinking, I use a progressive press, otherwise I hand-load each (prime, powder, projectile, crimp).
 
I reload rifle on a single stage press (Forster Co-Ax) and I reload 9mm on an RCBS turret press. I have distinctly different procedures for the two.

For Rifle:
As I fire the rifle I collect the brass (Shot by shot for my bolt action. With a brass catcher for my AR15)

Once home:
  1. Decap
  2. Tumble (wet tumble with SS Media)
  3. Dry (either leave it out for a day or two, or put in a small toaster oven for 30 minutes at 225 deg & let cool slowly)
  4. Lube and Size (neck size for my bolt or full length size for my AR)
  5. Verify Case length (use calipers)
  6. Trim if too long
  7. Chamfer & debur if req'd
  8. Wipe lube off
  9. Prime
  10. Add powder
  11. Seat bullet
  12. Verify COAL
  13. Log bullet used/powder used etc on label

Note: At each step from 4 through to 9, I look over the casing to ensure that it has no visible flaws or weaknesses and if I find any, I discard that casing.

For Handgun (9mm):
Collect Brass at Range

Once home:
  1. Tumble brass (wet tumble using SS Media)
  2. Dry (same as above)
  3. Decap & size (One die)
  4. Prime
  5. Flare case mouth & add powder (Same die)
  6. Verify powder (I spot check about 1 out of every 10 to ensure my powder drop is accurate and consistent.)
  7. Seat bullet
  8. Light Taper Crimp
  9. Spot check (again about 1 out of every 10) COAL

_______________________________________________

This is how I do it, but as was mentioned above, buy a GOOD reference book (or 2 or 3), read them and follow their direction/guidance. FWIW, I have (and use) the Lyman 49th Ed, Hornady 9th Ed, Nosler 7th Ed, and Modern Reloading by Richard Lee 2nd Ed.
 
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