Casting bullets for 9mm revolver, looking for advice.

Gunggeek

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Hey everyone.i just came in to possession of nice 9mm para Alfa project 4.5 inch barrel, i was wondering if anyone has 9mm revolver and try to reload led cast bullets? Where do you look for data on powder? What weight of bullets? Shape, and where do you get your led? Thanks a lot for any input.
 
First load data, Lyman is the go to load book for cast, there is the cast load book itself and the regular load book which has both cast and jacketed loads. The Castpics website has lots of cast info and the Castboolits website are the place to go. When I started loading cast I tried manufactured lead bullets for a long time before I got into casting. An inexpensive lee mold like they have at Wholesale sports and the lyman big dipper casting kits are a great way to start casting cheap.Actually the lyman load book is in the big dipper kit I think.
 
Hey everyone.i just came in to possession of nice 9mm para Alfa project 4.5 inch barrel, i was wondering if anyone has 9mm revolver and try to reload led cast bullets? Where do you look for data on powder? What weight of bullets? Shape, and where do you get your led? Thanks a lot for any input.

I shoot 9mm cast bullets out of both revolvers and autos. The beauty of shooting cast out of a revolver, is that pressures can be controlled as there there is no need to cycle the action. For example, I have an old Lyman mould that drops a 120 grain SWC. It would only stabilize out of my Blackhawk Convertable if I kept velocity below 650 fps. With a wheel gun you can shoot almost any bullet shape without having to worry about feeding issues. I have 5 moulds that work for the 9mm, all being under 140 grains, with most casting a 125 grain bullet.

You need reasonably hard lead, with nothing softer than BHN 10, which can be found in the form of wheel weights. Another source of suitable lead is finding cast bullets in your local range scrap. Just the cast bullets though, as the plated and jacketed bullets are often too soft.

Visit Castboolits.com as they are a wealth of bullet making information.
 
I bought a lee 4/20 lead pot, an old cast iron pot, lee ingot mold, some cheep stainless steel cooking ladles, and my chop saw. Do not smelt lead in the pot as the slag and other impurities over time will impregnate the sides and creates minor issues when you pour in the mold. smelt wheel weight, pure lead, 50/50 solid core solder, grandmas old pewter junk, or what ever you have in the cast iron pot. Flux with the sawdust you create with your chop saw. note on saw dust try to avoid pressure treated wood it wont harm the lead, but it smells really bad and if you wear a dust mask instead of a sealing respirator that #### is going straight to your lungs. create ingots from the lead, once their made only use that in your lee lead pot. just a side note i own 2 post, 1 for pure lead casting, and 1 for hardened lead casting.

As others have said here get the Lyman loading book. I am sure you could find a copy of No. 48 in pdf for free is you look through some posts on here, as well as the lee modern reloading book. I use the lyman 120gr tc and just bought the a lee 124gr 6 bullet mold. I have used lee alox lube to good results, however i am going to begin powder coating. casting is fun and it gives you a new level of experimenting with loading.

the previous posts have provided excellent information, use all, as well go online and watch videos, read every bit of information you can.

Welcome to the wonderful world of loading any pistol for cheaper than 22lr
 
9 mm in a revolver is a dream round. Just like .38 special. Cheap, easy to cast, mild recoil, overall perfect for plinking. Make sure you size your bullets for the cylinder throat properly. To bad there are not many options for revolvers in 9 mm. Thanx God for .38 spl with plenty of gun choices.
Just use whatever mold you feel like. That's the beauty of a revolver cast wise.
 
I bought a lee 4/20 lead pot, an old cast iron pot, lee ingot mold, some cheep stainless steel cooking ladles, and my chop saw. Do not smelt lead in the pot as the slag and other impurities over time will impregnate the sides and creates minor issues when you pour in the mold. smelt wheel weight, pure lead, 50/50 solid core solder, grandmas old pewter junk, or what ever you have in the cast iron pot. Flux with the sawdust you create with your chop saw. note on saw dust try to avoid pressure treated wood it wont harm the lead, but it smells really bad and if you wear a dust mask instead of a sealing respirator that #### is going straight to your lungs. create ingots from the lead, once their made only use that in your lee lead pot. just a side note i own 2 post, 1 for pure lead casting, and 1 for hardened lead casting.

As others have said here get the Lyman loading book. I am sure you could find a copy of No. 48 in pdf for free is you look through some posts on here, as well as the lee modern reloading book. I use the lyman 120gr tc and just bought the a lee 124gr 6 bullet mold. I have used lee alox lube to good results, however i am going to begin powder coating. casting is fun and it gives you a new level of experimenting with loading.

the previous posts have provided excellent information, use all, as well go online and watch videos, read every bit of information you can.

Welcome to the wonderful world of loading any pistol for cheaper than 22lr

You didnt have any issues with the pot?ive seen some reviews, people say that it overheat easily, some even say it almost caught on fire the first time.
 
You didnt have any issues with the pot?ive seen some reviews, people say that it overheat easily, some even say it almost caught on fire the first time.

i've had the 10lbs pot and 20lbs pots from lee for 3 years now and haven't had any overheating issues. I have converted the 20lbs pot to be controlled by a PID temp controller for better casting consistency though. you can make your own as i did or buy PID controllers premade, best money ever spent.
 
My pot has worked perfect except for the fact that I originally smelted in it, about 1 year later I started to get gorse amounts of iron oxide build up on to of the lead. I had to empty it completely, scour it with break clean and a green 3M pad to get all the contaminates out. I have not had an issue since then.

Hey yo spawn can you hook me up with how you made the PID for yours please.

One of my buddies here also uses 38/357 140 gr swc lee cast and just runs it through his .356 seizer. i don't have a revolver so i have never tried them, but hey maybe i should go and get a revolver and
 
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You should slug your Alpha Project to confirm what bore sizes you are working with. I just did some work slugging my S&W 929's, so decided to slug my Alpha Proj 9261. The cylinder throats varied between .358-.359" while the barrel bore was actually .355. Normally you want a .001" obturation between the bullet and cylinder throat, and a .001" obturation between the cylinder throat and the barrel bore. I had been shooting 9mm copper plated with no problem. Not sure what you would do in this situation with cast lead bullets.

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