Wondering if anyone has had their hunting rifle finished in Cerakote/Gunkote type finish on a blued rifle? Does this bring it to a similar "weatherproofness" as a stainless finish? I've always focused on stainless rifles, but have sometimes passed up some great bargains on blued rifles as a result. If the finish would "weatherproof" a blued rifle, I would definitely be keen to try out.
Cerakote/Gunkote style finish on blued firearm vs stainless steel?
- Thread starter buckchaser
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- Steel Town
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...rma-coated?p=10729008&viewfull=1#post10729008
Arma-coated over parkerized finish. Durable and 100% weatherproof.
Put her away wet and forget about it.
Yes, I expend 3 seconds of energy and shoot a bit of G96 down the bore. I do the same with my stainless rifles-- which btw are not 100% weatherproof.
Arma-coated over parkerized finish. Durable and 100% weatherproof.
Put her away wet and forget about it.
Yes, I expend 3 seconds of energy and shoot a bit of G96 down the bore. I do the same with my stainless rifles-- which btw are not 100% weatherproof.
You can buy clear ceracote, it will give you a waterproof coating, it costs about a $100 for a 4 ounce bottle, that should do a lot of barrels. It comes in satin , semi gloss , and high gloss.( I have a natural aluminum barrel done with semi gloss, it looks awesome.)
If you get your firearm NP3 treated(also known as black nitride coating) it will treat everything including the bore. This process, from what I've been told, makes a firearm very resistant to weather. It also hardens the surface of the metal, which is supposed to increase barrel life, and due to the hardening it increases the lubricity of the steel(may make your action smoother).
The 2 downsides to this is that it's probably one of the most expensive routes( I was told app $450 for a barrelled action) and that the process turns any metal black so you have no option with color.
Also, because it hardens the surface of the steel so much, if you want to do any machining on the action(ie trueing) it must be done before the action is treated.
The 2 downsides to this is that it's probably one of the most expensive routes( I was told app $450 for a barrelled action) and that the process turns any metal black so you have no option with color.
Also, because it hardens the surface of the steel so much, if you want to do any machining on the action(ie trueing) it must be done before the action is treated.
bearkilr
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Are you sure about that? Any coating could potentially affect accuracy and pressure. I've had some electroless nickel plating done (which is very similar to NP3, less the teflon) and they advised against doing the bore. And btw, NP3 isn't black.
I was told, buy who I consider a very reputable smith, that it's not a coating but a metal treatment therefore not adding anything to the bore. I was also told that the process turns the metal black. I'm no expert in these things and I'm just repeating what I was told as it seemed relevant to this thread. Perhaps what they use is a different process?
what is roughly the price for both treatment?
bearkilr
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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Read all about it here. I think you have NP3 mixed up with another finish, or perhaps your gunsmith does. The only method I'm familiar with on guns that hardens the surface is color case hardening, when you get the "oil slick on water" look to the metal. Some companies like knife and watch manufacturers do hardening, but that requires a heat treat (nitriding). If you want the bore to be somewhat more corrosion resistant, you have to go stainless.
robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/np3/
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i like ceracote on cm rifles. i don't worry about the bore. when hunting in wet weather i run a patch with eds red on it threw the bore and tape the muzzel. never had a rusty bore. ss is not rust proof either. i treat my ss bores same as cm.
- Location
- Steel Town
$225 + shipping for a barreled action.
Inside of action is also done.
Money well spent on a working rifle.
According to Krieger, it seems that it is not the way to go...
http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/FAQ-c1246-wp3352.htm
I had my Cz858 nitro carburized. The barrel never showed signs of corrosion and was surprisingly accurate. I treated a muzzle brake and shot it with several corrosive ammo's. It's still sitting on my bench rust free 5 years later. Only downside was the strength of the locking surfaces in the receiver was altered/softened. I now have a very durable paperweight.
Very interesting. I had not seen that before. Thanks for sharing the link. Might not be the way to go then as Krieger probably knows their stuff!
I personally like cerakoted rifles over blued. For me it's hard to pass on a deal for a blued rifle.
I actually really liked the Remington Model 7 predator rifles (minus the camo stock and coating).
Bought one in 204 Ruger a couple years ago. Blasted all the camo "stuff" off the outside
and sprayed the whole rifle with cerakote. Looks 100 times better now.
If I'm going to rebarrel a blued rifle, I like to just spray the action with cerakote before installing a
stainless barrel.
I actually really liked the Remington Model 7 predator rifles (minus the camo stock and coating).
Bought one in 204 Ruger a couple years ago. Blasted all the camo "stuff" off the outside
and sprayed the whole rifle with cerakote. Looks 100 times better now.
If I'm going to rebarrel a blued rifle, I like to just spray the action with cerakote before installing a
stainless barrel.
